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Oil Additive's-which One's Best???

A

a_scott_h

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okay--this should be a good subject---ive seen the ads on tv seen em in the mags----- they all claim gr8 things-----but whose the best-- all sorts of manufactures out there from slick 50 to duralube and prolong-- i cant even begin to remember the rest!!!! which one was it that had 50 engines on test stands with diff lubes drained em all and theres was the only still running no oil or water??-----which one had the best pull on the bearing grinding test?? which one ran with a fire hose spraying water into the top of the heads no valve cover----lol-----who do YOU believe lets see anyone got any real results? positive feed back?do they really make the engine run cooller (mine runs 225would like cooler) what do ya say?? lets hear it!! I'LL RUN OUT AND BUY WHATEVER U GUIYS CAN CONVINCCE ME IS THE BEST!! : ) ------THNX----------SCOTT----:Twist----:s
 
Great Topic

I think everyone would be interested in this. Once again, I've purchased the Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer but haven't had the chance to experiment and find out how well it works. I'll definitely report back what I find as soon as I can though.

Anthony
 
Mobile1 every 3k. Why use additives unless you are trying to correct a problem. No additive is going to fix the problem. If it's broke,get it fixed the right way. It will cost you less in the end.
Just my .02
 
Oil Additives?

C4ever is right. Why would want to use these. If you were racing this may well be a different story. The GM recommedation of Mobile will handle everything that will come up in normal driving as well as in many race situations.

Save your money.............

Have a good day,

Stan A
 
mobil one

hmmmmmm i'll have to utilize my first amendment rights to disagree with you guys so far- im not looking to fix something more so than i am trying to add extra protection--If some additive would give me that lil extra friction loss say on start ups and while running i think thats a good thing---- as to mobile one i used it in my 89 had no problems--- but my brother also used it in his brand new mercury cougar xr7 with 4 cyl turbo----he lost the engine at just under 50 thous. miles-so mobile one isnt perfect-or more like it isnt the answer for all---and one other factor--Man do i drive my car hard-seems like its always stompin time--(probably why i'm on my 3rd vette in 5 years)-so thnx for the the repies so far but still interested in any experiences either way--so far i'm leaning to duralube what do YOU think let me know:s
 
I hear what you are saying but no objective study has shown these additives to increase protection and extend engine life. Even with a heavy foot:_rock good preventive maitainance will do the job. My cars have 80k and 102k with original engines and I've never been accused of a light foot. If we are talking racing, that's another story. I would be interested in seeing an independent peer group study showing these so called benefits of additives.
As far as the Cougar, well that's a FORD:(
 
You know why pro-drivers run additives in the cars they are racing ... cause they get paid to advertise. Sponsorship is big bucks to a team. Use a good grade of oil, change the oil and filter as recommended, and you will be OK. The biggest advantage of the synthetics is in their ability to maintain lubricating qualities at extremly high temps.
The flash point for most non-synthetics on the average is about 350 -385 deg.
The flashpoint for synthetics is well over 450 deg.
The other thing you want to look at is viscosity, most new cars are coming from the factory with 5W30, thats a pretty wide range, and is intended to help with fuel mileage.
A good rule of thumb for a good base oil is to not have a gap greater than 15 - 20. In other words 10W30 or 15W30 would have less ash producing additives to increase the viscosity in the latter two oils than the 5W30 oil.
I could ramble on all day bringing up additional points on oils, but the main thing is use a good grade that meets the specs, and change it and the filter on a regular schedule.
Stan
 
Cougar XR7

No wonder the engine went at 50.000. Remember this is a Pinto engine with a turbo in a car designed for a V8 and a far cry for the real Cougar XR7.
I am still amazed why people bought these XR7 and the Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. (same engine)
No kind of additive would ever help this engine.
Lets hear it for the good old V8
 
vettepilot said:
You know why pro-drivers run additives in the cars they are racing ... cause they get paid to advertise. Sponsorship is big bucks to a team.

Ya know of course Stan that some of those teams may have the sponsors name on the barrel, but what's inside of the barrel might be a different product altogether. ;)

_ken :w
 
I've read some scientific analyses of these products on the net and they all found NO benefit to any of these additives. I too recommend using any good synthetic oil. Change the oil and filter more often if you have concerns about their ability to lubricate.
 
Ken,
Yes your are 100% correct, in fact I almost added that as an afterthought in my post. Don't know why I didn't, must be old age catching up... no more like running all over me LOL.
Stan :crazy
 
Oil Additives

Well this in an area I consider myself very enlightened on. I own a teflon coating company, and have formulated and tested dozens of formulations of teflon and other types of oil additives. The university of las veges, Briggs and Stratton, and many others have done the same....all with the same results. THEY EITHER DO NOT WORK AS CLAIMED, AND IN MOST CASES WORSE THAN IF YOU HAD USED ANY AT ALL......PERIOD! I don't think I can make myself much clearer than that. Do a search on the net, and you will find the same information. I have actual documentation to prove they do not work.

The best thing is to use high quality synthetic oil, such as Mobil ONE. I have used it myself in my cars, and have test that can show it works, that even after 168,000 miles on one of my cars, it still test at factory.....YES FACTORY compression limits, and exhaust emissions as well.

So....Dont waste your money on the additives, its the most widely abused SNAKE OIL SALES PITCH IN THE WORLD. On that note as well, the BIG THREE AUTO MAKERS, have done extensive testing on them, and if THEY thought they would extend the life of their cars, therby saving millions of dollars in warranty repairs, they would not only use them....but recommend them. NUFF SAID

RIKO:cool :cool
 
There you go Scott. We've just told you the best one to run out and get and saved you money too!
Additive: None
Cost: $0.00 (before tax) :D

ie, I vote for just running your Mobil 1 and a good filter.

Graham
 
Re: Oil Additives

TopDown94 said:
So....Dont waste your money on the additives, its the most widely abused SNAKE OIL SALES PITCH IN THE WORLD. On that note as well, the BIG THREE AUTO MAKERS, have done extensive testing on them, and if THEY thought they would extend the life of their cars, therby saving millions of dollars in warranty repairs, they would not only use them....but recommend them. NUFF SAID

As I said, "Just say NO to additives!" Thanks Riko! :upthumbs

_ken :w
 
ok! ok! you guys win! I"m just saying NO!! lol--- thnx all---scott-----p.s. i'm gonna run mobil one in my 87-------- when i got it--- it had reg oil not synthetic--- i ve done one change --its due another---- whats the cons if any of going to synthetic now?? if any??-- i heard that it caused gasket leaks sometimes to change over ---is this true? i dunno----thnx again ----scott
 
buncha bull ca-ca

Q: What do you get when you add slick 50 or duralube to your engine or tranny?
A: A 2000 lb paperweight!

I had a service van with over 100k on it. Tranny was OK but this thing had high miles. (NOT a ford--86 chevy G10) I added Slick 50 to the engine and Duralube to the tranny. The tranny started slipping and finally quit altogether within 500 miles. The engine started smoking within 100 miles after the tranny went and finally sh!t itself within another 100. How's that for a testimonial!
--Drew:w
PS--only Mobile 1 for me and my vehicles now.
 
kens right....

most race teams don't use cheap oil either reg or syn. most race teams go with kendall i can get into a story bout that but won't due to we race full time on the NHRA circuit and i know alot of teams that do the same thing. Personally i use castrol syntec have used it for over 10 years starting out in my first hot rod an 82 z/28 that runs 13's with the oh yes crossfire injection 305 cubes. My waterpump went up and i drove it home limping it and time i got home it was burried at 260+ on water temp when i pulled in my drive way. i let it cool down naturally fixed the pump filled it up checked for leaks smoke ect... nothing ran as fast an as fine. you might ask why the f&*^ would you do that? well at the time being 19 and wanting to build a 383 stroker and back it with a T-5 wasn't a bad ideal...lol The trick is not to switch back and forth or mix match syn and reg oil then you will get the gasket leaks and even premature wear cause the 2 oils won't bond together so when you run syn make sure you only run syn as long as you own it. when i bought my z/28 it had 76k in miles on it so it was somewhat high milage and pulled thru for another summer of fun (unfortunatly....lol wanted that 383 stroker) ended up buying a 400 small block and a 350 turbo but sold that.....wants the 383 stroker....hehe :D
 
ADDITIVES

According to new studies Mobil1 is good for up to 5,000 miles. Syntec oils will do what additives claim would do for your car. If you use just regular basic pep boys oil, yes you need prolong or so
 
Re: ADDITIVES

FX3FX3 said:
According to new studies Mobil1 is good for up to 5,000 miles. Syntec oils will do what additives claim would do for your car. If you use just regular basic pep boys oil, yes you need prolong or so

While this is highly debatable...
I run Mobil 1 and change my oil every 5,000mi. I change the filter at 2,500mi and add half a quart, more or less for the filter. I still say the 3,000mi change is nothing more than hype brought on by the quick change places to make a buck. Even at 5,000mi my oil temp is the same. If I was driving under 'severe' duty I would reconsider that. No additives. I also have the magnetic drain plug and the magnet that goes on the bottom of the oil filter in hopes of catching any metal particles. I do this with all 5 of our vehicles. I see no negative affect. My sons little Chrysler has a 2.5V6 that now has 110,000 on it. Burns no oil, runs fine.
Just an opinion....
Graham
 

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