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Oil weight and type rcomendations for C2?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jonisti
  • Start date Start date
J

Jonisti

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Anyone have an educated opinion/s and/or experience with oil choice and weight for a 63' small block (327-250hp)? Along with this, I was getting ready to add a modern oil filter adater kit to get away from the Canister type. This is just something I would like to change, nothing pending yet. I tend to read between the lines on motors and beauties such as this one. My official question/s would be this. (1) recommendations for this motor which has 73,000 original. (2) if I choose to adopt the adapter kit, would this require a different weight of oil other than a regular 10w-30 or 30 without the kit?
I am a Castrol and Valvoline fella, (doesnt mean I tend to be hard headed about it) Also I was asking other folks if this new "high mileage" type oils from various companies was worth it?

Most of us young fellas havent had the oportunity to evaluate an old small block after various oil experiments, this is why I ask.....

These new motors are what Iam used to......

I dont claim to be an "all knowledgable guy" Just wanted educated opinions and proven methods,if thats kool with ya'll?? Thanks:confused :confused
 
Changing to a spin on oil filter will have no effect on the oil used. Nothing wrong with Castrol or Valvoline in your car. 10W30 will work just fine all year around. I would use 20W50 during the hot months especially if you do a lot of distance driving at 70 mph. Just my preferance. I always like to run a little heavier oil in an older engine, expecially when the oil temperature will be high.

As for the oils we are seeing advertised for cars over 75,000 miles, I have never used any. They seem to be offered in the same popular weights so the difference must be in the additive package. What it is I haven't a clue. I would say that if your engine isn't consuming any oil you probably don't need it. If, on the other hand, you have to add oil between changes give it a try. Can't hurt anything.

Tom
 
why would you want to convert from the canister? it has more surface/filter area, and you don't have to worry about bursting it.

if you do, DON'T remove the pypass valve plate, just add the adapter (if you remove the plate, your oil flow will bypass the filter completely.

see ya.........

concerning oil, I'd recommend Shell Rotella T 15w40 assuming you don't use your vette in cold winter months
 
Oil weight and type rcomendations for C2

Really appreciate the great inputs from ya'll (TOM and 66427-450)
I will deeply consider both inputs and get back to yu with my decision. Both inputs made really good sense....... Thanks again

Cheers all.........
 
C2 oil suggestion...

Jonisti...

I have a '65 roadster with the original (numbers match) engine and before I went through it completely, I used Castrol 10w40 as it was using a little oil (about 1 qt) between changes. I have now completely gone through it with many modifications (i.e. professionally balanced, 10.5:1 hypereutechnic pistons, roller rockers, Comp Magnum 292H cam, ported and polished heads with hardened valve seats for pump gas, chambered exhaust, Pertronix ignition, etc.) and I now use Castrol Syntech 5w50. I also converted to the spin-on filters as they are available just about anywhere. It has performed well and when I took it on the Route 66 Fun Run in 2000 we hit 118 degrees plus in the Arizona, California and Nevada deserts and even at 100+ MPH it never overheated (orig alum rad) or had a problem. The cam seemed to really "come-on" at speeds in excess of 80 MPH but the oil consumption was very little and the Syntech seems to do an excellent job!
:Steer
 
WOW, sounds really sound....... sounded like too much fun.....
Wish I could have made it..... I appreciate the message and the great information. Thanks again.........cheers

The Air Force keeps me pretty busy, so maybe one day I will have chance to run my split the same on 66...... Take care
 
Welcome

Welcome aboard Al. It's nice to see someone that isn't afraid to enjoy their old Corvette.:upthumbs

Tom
 
Use 'em but don't abuse 'em

Tom...

Thanks for the welcome and, yes, I believe all 'Vettes are made to be driven! "Trailer queens" belong in museums with the "mummies!"
:bu
 
NCRS?

Tom, I was curious of the NCRS? I gathered it is a regristry but what does a fella have to do to get signed up? Sounds like Iam new at this (vettes) not really, just havent NCRSd it before...... Thanks....
 
66427-450 The spin on filter can be filled before installation - to prevent most of the bearing damage done waitng for the oil pressure to come up.

As for burst, mine runs 50 pounds till warmed up then 40-45 all the time. Spin on adapters have a pop off valve to prevent bursting.
 
magicv8 said:
66427-450 The spin on filter can be filled before installation - to prevent most of the bearing damage done waitng for the oiul pressure to come up.

As for burst, mine runs 50 pounds till warmed up then 40-45 all the time. Spin on adapters have a pop off valve to prevent bursting.

I do the same and mine behaves exeactly the same.

Bob
 
I use 20-50W as I was told to use by my mechanic on my '65 L76...
 
magicv8 said:
66427-450 The spin on filter can be filled before installation - to prevent most of the bearing damage done waitng for the oil pressure to come up.

i agree..... and I've prefilled my canister filters for the last 30 years



[/QUOTE]
As for burst, mine runs 50 pounds till warmed up then 40-45 all the time. Spin on adapters have a pop off valve to prevent bursting. [/B][/QUOTE]

yes, but when the valve opens you bypass the filter, much better to have a filter system that can handle the flow/pressure.
 

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