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Ok, now that it's started....

  • Thread starter Thread starter jackyl
  • Start date Start date
J

jackyl

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It won't idle at all. I used starting fluid to start it, and that helped, but it's like as soon as I put my foot on the gas pedal the car dies. It had a 1/4 tank of old gas in it. I added stabalizer, and a gallon new gallan of premium as well. I can hear the fuel pump kicking in also. Any ideas?? It's not setting any codes either.
 
I guess I'm coming in a little late to completely understand your project, and I'm also a little confused by your seemingly contradictory statements:
It won't idle at all.
and
... as soon as I put my foot on the gas pedal the car dies.

Does it run and not idle, or does it idle and not run when you hit the throttle?

_ken
 
Ken said:
I guess I'm coming in a little late to completely understand your project, and I'm also a little confused by your seemingly contradictory statements: and

Does it run and not idle, or does it idle and not run when you hit the throttle?

_ken
The car caught fire a year ago, and that pic was it then.... I just today got the new wire harness and all new electrical installed, and got the car started for the first time since then. Now it turns over and starts, and will idle for 2 to 3 secs and then sputter. But if I put my foot on the gas as soon as the car turns over it dies right away. Hope that helps :D

Jeff
 
Is everything new on the throttle body, i.e., TPS, IAC, etc.? Sounds like it might be a TPS setting that could be preventing it from running when you give it gas. Maybe?

_ken :w
 
Ken said:
Is everything new on the throttle body, i.e., TPS, IAC, etc.? Sounds like it might be a TPS setting that could be preventing it from running when you give it gas. Maybe?

_ken :w
No none of that is new. The fire was contained to right behind the stereo/heater area. So it was only in the interior. Nothing in the engine bay has been changed.

TPS setting?? :confused
 
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) should read from about .5v at idle to about 5v at wide open throttle (+/- .08v).

_ken :w
 
IF your not getting any codes

and the car idled BEFORE...1 of 2 things are happening.. the IAC is not hooked up or the IAC needs cleaning.

Do a search for IAC...

You will find the "procedure" for removal & cleaning.


Start there.

Can the car hold 800 rpm with a slight pedal assist?

and

Put a little wedge of something in the throttle linkage to hold the plates open and let her just idle for an hour or so... let everything circulate around for a bit.




Vig.
 
Ok, I'll give the IAC and TB a good cleaning and see if that works!!:Steer
 
Another thought

You got the harness off an 89... Both interior & ecm???? or only interior..

The ECM pin out- connections MIGHT be different.

Just a thought.


Vig!
 
Re: Another thought

vigman said:
You got the harness off an 89... Both interior & ecm???? or only interior..

The ECM pin out- connections MIGHT be different.

Just a thought.


Vig!
Hey Mike, Just the interior harness, not the ecm. I'm starting to think that it's the 16 month old gas :D So I'm thinking... how hard is it to drain the gas tank?!?!:duh
 
I would definitely get that gas out. Also if 88 has a Mass Air Flow Sensor see if that is working. Car has been sitting awhile so u gonna hafta sort it out all over again.

Moe
 
Unplug it and try starting it. sometimes they will run better this way if the MAF is bad. Saw that on an IrocZ once
 
IAC cleaning & relearn ( 88 )

So here's the deal

Go to the auto parts store and get a throttle body gasket set!!!! and 3 cans of carb cleaner.

DO NOT SPRAY CARB CLEANER INTO THE ENGINE WHILE RUNNING..It WILL "F up" the CAT's

Remove the throttle body.

Take the IAC motor out and CLEAN it.

When cleaning,
DO NOT LET CLEANER RUN DOWN THE SHAFT OF THE IAC MOTORS point em nose down and spritz em.. then wipe it and do it again till shinny... put it back in, re assemble the throttle body and re install.

Now to the throttle body itself,

Do not let carb cleaner get on the throttle position sensor ( 3 pin connector hooked up to throttle butterfly shaft).

Notice carefully in the throttle body where the pintle ( tip ) of the IAC motor comes in contact with the IAC. Clean that area REAL GOOD... USE CARB CLEANER!!!!!!and on the back of the throttle plates, AND where the throttle body mounts up to the air plenum.. that should be slimed as well.

Let the assy air dry.



The big $$$ trick

Have somebody.. start the car the shut it off after it lights ( 10 seconds )

Then re start ( yes RIGHT NOW)

IF the IAC is working correctly.. the idle will shoot up to 1,100 ( ish ) RPM and work it's way down.. if this doesn't happen.. try again.If it still fails.. your IAC motor is bad..or the ECM control lines are broke.

Then it's scanner time.

90% of the time.. this nails the problem!




Vig!
 
Pumping dead gas

Remember the connector for the oil pressure sender ( orange & Black?)

Remove the rear gas cap hatch assy... you now see some lines ( rubber hose to the top of the tank) One of those is the electric pump discharge.. the biggest rubber line.. remove the hose & replace it with a LONG hose to fill a 5 Gallon gas can ( or more as needed )

DO NOT SMOKE OR MAKE SPARKS OR WELD OR
ANYOTHER STUPID THING WITH FIRE!

HAVE AN FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY!
( just in case)

Now going to the front of the car .. take your million dollar paper clip and jump the Orange & black.

You now have your own gas pump!


Vig!
 
I just finish getting all the old gas out. Now 4 gallons of fresh new premium. Car is still doing the same thing though. I cleaned the TB and IAC today too. Maybe I need a new IAC?? Autozone has them for $35 with gasket:eek . Everywhere else says over $100. Unplugged MAF and didn't act any different there either. Maybe it just don't wanna run no more...
 
We'll figure it out jackyl just gonna take time and lots of patience. Sounds like the MAF is ok. I would try a new IAC and also have u checked to see how much exhaust is coming out the tailpipes. If your Cats are plugged from maybe say a rodent living in your exhaust it would cause the car to run like it is.

:beer
 
Do NOT buy a cheapo IAC

Get the GM!!!!!!!

You WILL thank your self!

Did you try the re-learn trick?

When you start & stall( or shut off really quick ) this will force the ECM to re-learn.

You can test the IAC theory by causing a small vac leak remove the 2 lines ( one at a time ) on the right rear of the intake plenun.. this will lean out the mix.. doing kinda of the same thing.

Your EGR might be stuck OPEN...that's a thought!

Maybe it's time you took her around the block.

and blew the crud outa her.. get the goggles & the beach chair!


Vig!
 
Go to
www.c4vettes.com
it has a L98 start sequence......
"once the oil pressure has reached 4psi, the oil pressure switch will close allowing the fuel pump to run.(Note that you should have a black oil pressure switch/sender. It is mounted behind the distributor on the drivers's side and if it is not black, it is suspect due to a run of bad units that stayed in the GM parts pipeline for some reason)"
"The distributor will send a string of pulses to the ecm in responce to the engine being rotated by the starter....."
real good site check it out.
tom
 

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