lars
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2003
- Messages
- 209
- Location
- In my workshop bar in Denver
- Corvette
- 64 Black Roadster; 85 Coupe; 09 G8 GT 4-door Vette
On to the next problem: C3 rear suspension -- again really that tough?
- Thread starter Albee
- Start date
Curby
Well-known member
Here's a couple sugestions
Usually wantering all over the road is because they set the toe to a positive toe-out condition and may be due to a positive camber setting. My alignment shop did this to my 72 and it was rough to drive. They used the 68-69 specs. Some books have incorrect settings. Go to Vette Brakes and Products web site and print out the alignment specifications. They have 3 different settings. I would suggest picking the middle setting. Not the factory spec, not the full road race spec, but the one in the middle.
Post your alignment sheet read-outs. You shouhd have gotten a before and after read-out. This could tell us what may be wrong.
Also, if your steering wheel has play in it, it is a simple adjustment to tighten it up. Do a 1/2 turn at a time and test drive it between adjustments.
I have namual steering, so I have no real way to replace the steering bix grease on the factory box. I bought a grease fitting that replaces one of the bolts in the top of the steering box and some GM grease. I was able to pump the grease gun 200 times and still not have the box over full. I pulled a second bolt out to watch for grease. You don't wnat to fill it completely up, becasue it expands when it gets hot. I cycled the stering twice between each 50 pumps to help distribute the grese in the box. I am sure yours has power steering, so adding grease is not something you want or need to do.
For aligning the rear, the best thing to do is get adjustable strut rods. They are not htat expensive, and allow the shop to get your rear wheels very close to perfect. For the most part, the original shims in the trailing arms do not need to be changed.
Another thing is that maybe your idler arm has too much play in it. It is a simple replacmeent and can eliminate a lot of steering play. It gets the most wear of the entire steering system. new ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings will eliminate the rest of the play in the ssytem. I had a friend who owns a shop re-do my entire front end on my 82 for $650.00 which included ball joints, bushings, idler arm, tie rod ends, tie rods, and labor.
Usually wantering all over the road is because they set the toe to a positive toe-out condition and may be due to a positive camber setting. My alignment shop did this to my 72 and it was rough to drive. They used the 68-69 specs. Some books have incorrect settings. Go to Vette Brakes and Products web site and print out the alignment specifications. They have 3 different settings. I would suggest picking the middle setting. Not the factory spec, not the full road race spec, but the one in the middle.
Post your alignment sheet read-outs. You shouhd have gotten a before and after read-out. This could tell us what may be wrong.
Also, if your steering wheel has play in it, it is a simple adjustment to tighten it up. Do a 1/2 turn at a time and test drive it between adjustments.
I have namual steering, so I have no real way to replace the steering bix grease on the factory box. I bought a grease fitting that replaces one of the bolts in the top of the steering box and some GM grease. I was able to pump the grease gun 200 times and still not have the box over full. I pulled a second bolt out to watch for grease. You don't wnat to fill it completely up, becasue it expands when it gets hot. I cycled the stering twice between each 50 pumps to help distribute the grese in the box. I am sure yours has power steering, so adding grease is not something you want or need to do.
For aligning the rear, the best thing to do is get adjustable strut rods. They are not htat expensive, and allow the shop to get your rear wheels very close to perfect. For the most part, the original shims in the trailing arms do not need to be changed.
Another thing is that maybe your idler arm has too much play in it. It is a simple replacmeent and can eliminate a lot of steering play. It gets the most wear of the entire steering system. new ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings will eliminate the rest of the play in the ssytem. I had a friend who owns a shop re-do my entire front end on my 82 for $650.00 which included ball joints, bushings, idler arm, tie rod ends, tie rods, and labor.
Vettehead Mikey
Well-known member
Curby-
The steering boxes on manual and power steering cars are identical.
The steering boxes on manual and power steering cars are identical.
- Thread starter
- #24
Been a while since I checked in -
Want to thank the guys who responded with suggestions. Since I'm located in Ohio, I put the Vette back into storage, in late Nov., and probably won't get it back on the road until Mar. or Apr.
Unfortunately, I didn't get the "before" and "after" alignment sheets, back in Sep't / Oct. But, at least I am further ahead in the knowledge department, and the rear shim problem has been dealt with.
So, I'm going to roll my pennies, and continue to look for a suspension guy -- but not until the weather breaks.
Want to thank the guys who responded with suggestions. Since I'm located in Ohio, I put the Vette back into storage, in late Nov., and probably won't get it back on the road until Mar. or Apr.
Unfortunately, I didn't get the "before" and "after" alignment sheets, back in Sep't / Oct. But, at least I am further ahead in the knowledge department, and the rear shim problem has been dealt with.
So, I'm going to roll my pennies, and continue to look for a suspension guy -- but not until the weather breaks.
lars
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2003
- Messages
- 209
- Location
- In my workshop bar in Denver
- Corvette
- 64 Black Roadster; 85 Coupe; 09 G8 GT 4-door Vette
Actually, that's a really good way to destroy your steering box. The steering box can only be set up out of the car, on a workbench, unless you follow Jim Shea's specific in-vehicle adjustment procedure. This paper is available from either Jim or from me. If you simply crank down the center adjustment until the steering gets tight, you're going to trash the box.
Lars
Similar threads
Corvette Forums
Supporting Vendors
Dealers:
