P/S pump replacement - tips?

[froggy47]

I'm going to replace my worn out p/s pump & hoses this week. I have done this on other vehicles but not on a C4 Vette. Any helpful hints. No lift but I can jack it pretty high & drop off the front wheels if it helps. Access panels? Anything?

TIA

 

[tigmaned]

i thought i was going to have to do this to my 86, but i flushed the system with sea-foam trans flush and did like it said and replaced with some lucas power steering fiuld and no more moaning!! good luck i am it not much worse then any other car to change.

 

[WradDad]

Once you get the pulley off, it's easy. I bought the puller/installer kit at Autozone for something like $30.

The toughest part is getting to the hose fitting on the rack. Damn near impossible to get a wrench in there. I had the best luck coming in from the front of the car, over the rack housing, with an open-end wrench. The crows foot wrench just didn't work for me.

Barry

 

[MBDiagMan]

Make sure that you flush the rest of the system once the new pump is in place.

To do this, put everything back together except the return line to the reservoir. This is the top line on the reservoir. Connect a hose to this line that goes down into a drain pan. Make sure it is in the drain pan so that it won't flop around. what works best for me is a Hawaiian Punch one gallon jug. It is clear so that you can see when the fluid coming out is clear. It also has a plastic bail that you can tie wrap the drain hose to so that it won't flop out and make a mess.

With the drain receptacle in place, fill the reservoir with fresh p/s fluid. Be ready with a couple of quarts of fluid open and ready to pour. Have an assistant start the car and start turning the wheel back and forth lock to lock. Keep pouring the fluid until it is gone or the fluid coming into the drain receptacle is clean looking. If your two quarts are gone before the fluid is coming out clear then keep pouring in fluid until it comes out clean. Two quarts will almost surely be enough. Once fluid stops coming out the drain, have the assistant shut it off IMMEDIATELY.

Put it all back together and then fill the reservoir. Start the engine and continue to turn the wheel back and forth and adding fluid until it is to the full mark and the noise goes away.

Good luck,

 

[froggy47]

Update.

Got it out. The hoses the parts guy ordered are messed up. The hp hose has a major nick/gouge at the lip where the o ring goes where it seals. Box was crushed. No way I'm putting that on. The other lp hose ended up being one of the ones that attach to the cooler & I'm not doing those at this time so screwed there too.

I was unable to get a new Chevy pump - called 3 dealers - nobody has. Got AC Delco rebuilt. I HOPE it's good - as this is not a quicky job. It looks like it was painted (black) with a rag

Nice.

Question on pressing the pully back on, can I "lube" it with anything to ease it on, sucker is a TIGHT fit.

Will button it up tomorrow. Hope this cures the loss of p/s at severe duty/hot situation (autox)\

If it's in the rack I think I'll pay a pro to do that.

Do the control valves in the rack ever go bad?

I would recommend everyone change that fluid at least every couple of years.
TIA

 

[froggy47]

Done.

I can't tell if it fixed the problem until I race, but everything is back together, no leaks, got power steering, etc.

FYI here's a recap of how I did it.

Get all your parts and a p/s pully remover/installer ahead of time. Don't forget fluid.

I jacked the front up as far as I could to make it easier on the back. Also pulled the wheels so I could straddle the a arms & step in real close to the job.

Remove serp belt. I used a crows foot wrench that attaches to 3/8 drive breaker bar.

Remove alt. The big wire on the back is hot to the bat. so if you are not used to working around live stuff, disconnect pos. on bat first. I was just careful with the wire. When I put it back I did spark it of course - no damage done. Just a little weld mark on the alt.

Use special tool to remove pully on p/s pump - it'll be TIGHT. Remove (5 I think) 10mm bolts holding ps pump on.

Remove top high press hose fitting. It'll leak some p/s fluid so be ready with rags. I had to loosen a guide clamp on this hose to get some slack to lift it out of the pump fitting. There is an oring, replace with new. May come with the pump.

Remove idler pully.

Remove low press (big) hose. You'll need long needle nose to get the clamp off (unless your's is a screw type). There will be more leaking. Put finger over fat tube/pipe coming off pump.

Clean up drips.

Reverse above to install.

Don't pinch the plug wires when you tighten down the pump, move em around a bit if necessary.

Make sure the bottom hose clamp is clear of the belt & pullies, I twisted the sharp ends around towards the back after I had it in place.

My ac delco rebuilt was primed at the factory with fluid. If not I would fill with fluid as best you can b4 putting on.

I put a VERY LIGHT coat of grease on the shaft and pully to make it go on easier. I figure that sucker is not going anywhere once it's pressed on all the way.

I took off the serp belt & washed with soap & water as you don't want any fluid on it for obvious reasons.

Top off p/s resevoir pretty near top.

I put the wheels back on (safety) & started car. Small quick squeal as pump primed & then I had power steering immediately. I did not go lock to lock because when up on jacks the steering geometry is pretty radical and I didn't want to mess up the A arms/ball joints whatever.

Just 20 or 30 quick small left/right's to get the bubbles out.

Drop the car, torque lug nuts (I forgot that part once

). Go for a drive. Return, ck for leaks, set fluid level correct at hot.

Probably took 3 hrs to remove, next day 2 hrs to install. Not a hard job but a little more difficult than say brake pads/rotors. Plus you need the special tool.

Hope this helps somebody. Add your own tips. Anyone know what the flat rate time/price is on this job? I'd just be curious.__________________
Black/gray 1996 LT4 Coupe
K&N, SilverStars, Corsa Exhaust, race alignment, QA1 adjustable shocks, big bars, Chrome A-Molds, VictorRacer v700's, RD 5 point harness, Valentine 1, Carbo Tech Panther Plus pads, Mobil1 10w/30, Castrol TWS, Redline for the rest.

San Diego Region Solo2

Life's too short for boring cars!

:flag

 

[MBDiagMan]

Great job froggy and great write up. You perservered and conquered.

I would like to point something out in case you have never thought of it: When disconnecting the battery if you will disconnect the negative cable first, if your wrench bumps against anything grounded, you will not draw a spark. If changing the battery disconnect neg first and reconnect last.

Also, if the fluid was not really clean when you started, I would strongly recommend that you flush the system thoroughly so that your new p/s system starts its second life with nice clean fluid.

I'm sure there will be some folks who will benefit from your great write up and appreciate the time it took for you to post it.

Great job and have a great day,

 

[froggy47]

Thanks for the post.

I agree on the clean fluid being important, mine gets chgd every year due to the severe use (autox) so it was very fresh. Typically a car has never had the fluid changed & that would be on the list of what to do.

On the battery point, I was wondering about that myself. I thought if I disconnect neg first and then if that neg wire contacts the body (ground) then you would get a spark.

If I disconnect pos. first, I can let that pos. cable touch anything (except the pos. battery post) and no spark.

Do you know much about the control valves in the steering rack? If the pump does not fix my issue, then I have to go there next.

TIA