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Hey Paul. I plan on changing the hydraulic clutch fluid and was wondering if you had any special instructions. I am aware that I have to remove the slave cylinder, and bleed the air out that way. Is there anything else to it? Thanks in advance.

Hi there, Barb

Well, normally, you really dont even have to remove the slave, unless you have any air within the system.
If all you are doing is changing your fluid, you will need a 10mm, and alot of clutch fluid, maybe a pint total.
If you get the bottle from GM, you will use almost all of it.
Your part number is 12345347
Remember that clutch fluid is slightly different from brake fluid, as that it will not cause seal squeaking as brake fluid sometimes might.
Just place a drain pan under the slave, and slightly open the bleeder screw.
Gravity will do the rest, and just watch the level in the master cylinder, and keep it topped off.
Once you use about half the bottle, close off the bleeder screw, you are done.
Let us know how you make out, your advisor, c4c5
I was under the impression that while it was being bled, I required another person to pump the clutch. Is that correct? Thanks for the prompt reply.

Barbie:bash justanICQgenius
Hi Barb, again,
No, you do not need anyone in the car. Gravity will do all the work.
Just grab a coffee, (myfixforeverything) and keep topping off the reservoir.
Have fun, Paul
HELP!! Anyone!!

I had a go at it. The bleed screw on the actuator cylinder is on a 45 degree angle almost flush with the inner body panel, and I can't even tell how the drain valve on it is. I tried to disconnect the actuator cylinder from the clutch housing, but the rod in it pushes it against the solonoid cags relay. If I undo the actuator cylinder completely I don't know if I would be able to get it back together again.

Any opinions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi Barb,
Is it that you cannot reach the bleeder screw??
Please let me know what you are experiencing??
I would say that you should not have to remove it, as there is no air in the system.
YOu will have to pull the wrench towards the rear of the car, to loosen the bleeder screw.
I use a short handled wrench.
Let me know, c4c5
OK, just snapped this pic. I hope it helps.


You can barely see the bleed valve. Hardly any room between it and the body. There are not threads for a wrench, not sure how it is bled. And there is barely any room to remove the acuator slave, but if it can be removed with the tension, would I be able to get it back on?

Hi Barb,
Sorry so late.
Yes, your slave cylinder has a spring load to it to help with tension on the clutch fork. You can remove it, while angling it away from the shift solenoid, it will not break. Just be sure to loosen the clutch fluid line first, otherwise it will be impossible to remove it after the clutch slave is out.
I usually buy a cheap 10mm wrench, and heat it up, and bend it to the correct angle to attain clearance.
Let me know what you will do next, c4c5
I ended up ordering a new slave. The rubber boot was deteriorated and it had NO bleed valve, just a false plug. I have installed the new one, bled it, and just waiting for a test drive. Thanks for your help.


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