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Paint Advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter 69MnyPit
  • Start date Start date
6

69MnyPit

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I have a 69 Stingray stripped down to the glass. I was told by a local paint shop that I should use an epoxy primer after any major bodywork is accomplished, but before the very minor work i.e. scratches and gouges. Then, to use a regular sandable primer for final, then the single stage color. (Daytona Yellow). I enquired about the oil that is soaked through the door panels from the PO attempts at lubing the door mechanisms. (Even after repeated washings and degreasings, it comes back after a day or so). Their advise was to rough it up, degrease, and put the epoxy on right away. Does that sound right? Also, is the "fiberglass impregnated" Bondo good to use? Thanks,
 
do you mean oil saturated into the fiberglass say around the keyhole?there should be no oil in the surface,and it will come back to haunt you for sure...mike
 
mike weyman said:
do you mean oil saturated into the fiberglass say around the keyhole?there should be no oil in the surface,and it will come back to haunt you for sure...mike
Yea, the keyhole as well as across the entire bottom portion or the door skin. I know what you mean about haunting. That would suck after all the work I've done to date. Thanks,
 
I would stay away from bondo period! I'm in the process of restoring my 68, and I had the paint/body guy remove all bondo and replace with gel and/or glass. As for the process he's going through, he applied some base primer which is you can sand. Then he applied epoxy primer which you don't sand. Base coats... wet sand (between each to get rid of orange peel if any)... clear coats and final wet sand... then buff.
 
I had a 68 that i painted for a guy in torch red and his drivers door had the same problem ,it was from him using wd-40 oiling the locks up all the time and after i stripped it it started to show through.I used dupont velvaseal on it 2 coats then urethaned primed the car,its been 6 years and never came back.
 

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