Paint Chip Repair

[Denny Nelson]

I am jumping into the caldron of paint chip repair. I want to tackle this while I have the car stripped of wax [see Zaino/claybar posts]. I used the Ultimate Touchup [www.ultimatetouchup.com] on my Toyota and it was ok so I tried to order a kit for the vette and they quickly charged my card $46 11/19/02 but then failed to deliver or answer my email, so I am cancelling and trying www.dingking.com for $19.95 and I buy the matching paint at my local Chevy dealer. I have the typical rock chips on the front bumper. I am surprised there is not an entire section devoted to this subject. Anyone want to jump in? I will be happy to report back to all that are interested and post an opinion. Denny Nelson

 

[les]

I want to hear your thoughts on the chip repair kit . So far, I've left the chip repair to my favorite body shop.

 

[Denny Nelson]

Pint Chip Repair

Les, you will notice that this subject got little reaction [just you so far] and I believe that most Vette owners equate owner repair to 'white-out globs'. I don't blame them, but I believe there may be a techinique so you can repair as you go. I have a neighbor/friend that once did this for a living and he is going to help me, so let's see where this takes us. Denny

 

[DetailingDude]

I have a rather complicated system for doing touch up paint. It makes the paint look like you never had the rock chips in the first place.

However, www.lanka.com has a rather unique process that I think makes my process obsolete. I have yet to try it but I will soon. I have heard nothing but good things about it.

 

[B/STOCK]

Lanka didn't work for me or any of my friends. The product is similar to watered down lacqure thinner. Good luck on your repairs.

 

[Denny Nelson]

Paint Repair

Whoa. I am confused. www.lanka.com has to do with investments. How did this evoke a reaction from Big Red??
Denny Nelson

 

[Denny Nelson]

Paint Repair

Sorry, I meant Fast Red Vette. Denny Nelson

 

[Colorado]

It's actually http://www.langka.com/ .

 

[DetailingDude]

It's actually http://www.langka.com/ .

D'oh!! My bad!!

 

[Colorado]

You got my curiousity going so I had to go look. Thank you for the tips! BTW, the claying, wax stripping and waxing sounds like a good, relatively quick winter job if one has a heated garage. If the garage is only about 45 degrees, would that be too cold? Not for me, of course, but the chemicals and the paint, etc.

- Gene

 

[FrankM]

I have a rather complicated system for doing touch up paint. It makes the paint look like you never had the rock chips in the first place.

However, www.lanka.com has a rather unique process that I think makes my process obsolete. I have yet to try it but I will soon. I have heard nothing but good things about it.

I used to use that complicated system until I tried the Langka.
Now for the last 2 years I do not fear having rock chips. Granted it is not perfect, however you really have to look hard to find the repair.

The best $20 I ever spent!!!

 

[les]

I am wondering, if you put a little drop of touch up paint on the chip,after cleaning the heck out of it,can you not buff the area with a polish after it drys. Just thinking, and yes I am ignorant.:confused

 

[DetailingDude]

I am wondering, if you put a little drop of touch up paint on the chip,after cleaning the heck out of it,can you not buff the area with a polish after it drys. Just thinking, and yes I am ignorant.:confused

Actually it pretty much is that simple! Depending on if it is a metallic paint and how deep the chip is and if it is a clear coated car and......... but it is rather simplistically complicated.... really to do it so you can't tell if there was ever a chip is somewhat involved. Look for it in a few days.

 

[Colorado]

DetailingDude,

I guess that maybe I didn't get my question across appropriately.

What do you think would be the low temperature limit to this "winter project"? I tend to think that lower temperatures would not work very well with the chemicals involved.

Thank you in advance!

- Gene !

 

[DetailingDude]

You got my curiousity going so I had to go look. Thank you for the tips! BTW, the claying, wax stripping and waxing sounds like a good, relatively quick winter job if one has a heated garage. If the garage is only about 45 degrees, would that be too cold? Not for me, of course, but the chemicals and the paint, etc.

- Gene

Sorry!! I need to work on my speed reading skills.

Claying, De-Waxing won't be a problem. Depending on the wax you'll have a longer curing time. If you Zaino your 'Vette then you should let it cure over night and then do the finger wipe test in the morning.

 

[Colorado]

For those of us wishing for instant gratification, waiting overnight might seem like an eternity :L ! Thank you for your response !

Let me ask you this: I have seen shops that use only flourescent lights, and shops that use only incandescent...in your opinion, would one or the other, or a combination of both, be best? What I am thinking of is a way to pick up the fine surface scratches while you are in the garage, like you do in the sunlight.

 

[DetailingDude]

With a non-Zaino wax you won't have to wait over night. See www.ZainoBros.com on the guidelines for the cold.

As for the lighting: Hallogen lights are great, but get the light in front of you and look across the surface. I call this an "Opposing Light Source". I like to use a combination of lights. I am in the process of designing "The Ultimate Garage" for the TV show Corvette the American Dream so you can get some better ideas on there.

 

[90Callaway]

Langka is like laquer thinner in a cream form. It's not really all that good at smoothing the bump (paint blob) left by a touch up. It has a tendancy to disolve the paint in the chip leaving a depression.

The right way to do it is slowly build up the touch up paint in the chip using thin layers over a number of days until it's above the surface of the original paint. The number of layers and amount of time will vary based on the size of the chip. Here's the hard part because you'll be tempted to mess with it... LEAVE IT ALONE FOR ONE FULL WEEK! It will need time to cure and settle. Then come back with a small piece of 1200 or 1500 grit wet sand paper on a small sanding block. (about 1"x1") Wet sand it gently using water with a couple of drops of dish liquid or car wash in it. Keep it wet and be VERY careful not to remove the original finish. Just smooth the paint blob. Once you've done this, you can buff with a very mild polishing compound and wax.

Trust me, it works. The front of the Callaway aerobody is like an eggshell and chips if you look at it the wrong way.

 

[DetailingDude]

What he said.

I have not use the Lanka (sp) system other than that he's right on. I have never waited a week as my clients kinda like to drive their cars. LOL

 

[90Callaway]

What he said.

I have not use the Lanka (sp) system other than that he's right on. I have never waited a week as my clients kinda like to drive their cars. LOL

I can see how that would be a problem. :L It brings up a good point too.

Do you have access to a quicker curing paint being in the business? On my Callaway I typically use paint left from my paint job that does not contain hardener so it takes quite a while to cure. I've also used the small Dupli-Color bottles on other cars. That also takes some time to cure and I find it shrinks over a period of days. So, since it's my car and I can drive it with a paint blob or two I wait the week to be sure.