I need to order a new door handle and I saw this in the catalog and thought Id order both at the same time. Im also going to get a quote on repainting the T-Tops (passenger side has one mean scratch on it) so I thought Id use the extra paint to touch up some stuff, but I didnt want to make things worse with globby paint.
I have used Langka on my 88. The stuff really works. Just a tip though...Let the paint blob dry for a couple of days...I even let it dry for a week and the blob smoothed out and couldnt notice where the scratch was!!
What weren't you impressed with and where did you use it on your vette.
Being that you didn't use it on a metallic color it should have been to your liking.
It also depends on where on the body you used it and how you did it. Being that l am looking to buy a Millenium Yellow C5, l am very interested in your results.
What weren't you impressed with and where did you use it on your vette.
Being that you didn't use it on a metallic color it should have been to your liking.
It also depends on where on the body you used it and how you did it. Being that l am looking to buy a Millenium Yellow C5, l am very interested in your results.
I touched up some chips and scratches down on the rocker panel area. Followed all the directions. Let it dry, etc. When I sanded and buffed the area, the Langka paint would just come off, leaving the chip there. AND... I did use a "sanding board/buffing board", not my fat fingers.
Tried it several times and finally gave up.
I think that the process that Langka uses is that you use dis-similar paints. The Langka is a lacquer touch up, which you use over a urethane BC/CC. The Langka solvent will soften and dissolve the Langka paint, but not damage the BC/CC. Chuck
What you have to do is first use a pre solution on the area to be touched up and wipe it dry. Then you have to apply the lacquer paint and leave it for several days depending on the temperature. It should be at least 60 degrees.
Depending on the depth you will probably have to do this 4 times and take your time. After 4 days the lacquer paint will dry and shrink. Wrap a soft piece of a white dress shirt that has been washed with no starch left in it. And wrap it once around a credit card or the blue plastic card they give you. Make sure you only wrap it once. Put some of the Langka on one edge and move it back and forth over the area with very little pressure and check what is going on after two or three passes. I check after one pass.
This should lower the lacquer. Take another look to see if you need another coat and repeat the process.
When you feel it is as even as possible leave it be for another 4 days and then wax over it very gently.
Note if you apply pressure depending on the chip it will come out, but in time it will be fine. Never wet sand it.
Now depending on the depth of a scratch is something different. If this is your problem let me know.
I would rather chance brain surg then to touch up your vette. To ask how you touch up your paint is way beyond my scope.
It's got to be a labor of love.
Also in the last week or so l never saw so many vettes in my life from Ohio. Up until last week l thought maybe there were some but l am pleasantly surprised.
Well, I went to the site and tried the Squeegie Method they recommend for metallic paint. Basically, it doesnt work very well. I dont see why you have to do that for metallic paint, and standard paint you can let the blob sit there...
My biggest/most annoying scratch is on one of the t-tops. The wax had filled in and its bright white against dark mahogany. Its like like a light in the dark. I cant get it to be seamless and smooth, no matter how light I press. Still, I guess its better than it was before.
I let the paint sit for 24 hours and the paint just came out so I had to paint it again. I did have another small chip I tried it on and you really have to look for it to see it. It, however, isnt completely smooth either.
you know as a result of this thread I did this process for the first time. I am estatic about the results. I am crazy about my car and cannot stand any defects. Since buying these products I have complete confidence that I will never have to worry again about rock chips etc..
Thanks for the knowledge. I have a white car and possibly things are different for other colors. But it will be awhile before I will have another.
flying gem
It takes some time to get used to it but once you master it you will wonder how you ever lived without it.
One good tip is if you can feel the chip with your nail then it can be fixed properly. But you might have to try several times. Also depending on the depth of the chip and size you can also do it in layers. The thinner the better.
Keep in mind that when the lacquer paint dries it will shrink. Smooth it down real slow looking at the results every two times you pass over it.
Let the lacquer paint dry for the minimun of two days at 70 degrees or longer if it's colder.
You can e-mail if you need any further help of tips.
kingman, is there any way that using the system could make worse a chipped area? I'd be possibly willing to give it a shot, but not at the expense of making my chips worse. "A plumber loves it when a husband tries to fix his own plumbing issues."
But to answer your question NO. As long as you use lacquer paint the worst thing that can happen is waste your time and $.
The blue on your vette and cycle seem to be metallic. But what you can do is blob on the lacquer paint and let it sit for 3/4 days but instead of using Langka's blue card which looks like a credit card try to work with a strip of an old or new white shirt (woven of course) and wash it until there is no starch or any cleaning fluids left. Air dry it and then depending on where the chips are (the front) cut long strips depending on where the blob of lacquer is. Put a drop of the Lanka on the blob and take the strip of cloth and buff it like you were shining your shoes. The curvature of the car will guide the cloth but check it every 2/3 passes. Remember that the initial drop of lacquer will shrink and then you will have to add another layer. Depending on where and depth will determine what to do.
You can always e-mail me and l can give you phone #.
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I did use a "sanding board/buffing board", not my fat fingers.
