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Performer Intake

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave L.
  • Start date Start date
Dave,

Appears to be. I did a quickj search and found it at Summitt. All the pictures I have seen takes these lines and adds some blue anodized aluminum fittings on the ends and makes the connections. Looks sweet.

Maybe someone will post who knows more about it.

Bob
 
Yep

Nice job Dave, this should come in handy for TR (Stallion) when he does his intake. Try to get some pics. of the distributor installation. I used a braided line and Aeroquip fittings for my new fuel line when I changed my intake, not cheap but good stuff.
 
Very good, Dave. This is exactly what I need to do. For an new guy like me at this, this seems like it might be a challenge. The thing(s) I'm worried about is the distributor and marking the rotor so I don't mess up the timing or anything. Also the carb removal, that seems like that might pose a challenge.

I have to do this very soon. Besides the intake gaskets and the sealer, what supplies (provided I'm not changing my intake, just using the original stock manifold) do I need? A torque wrench I'm sure, any other tools?

Thanks!! :)
 
TR - Thats about the only 'specialty' tool you'll need. The only other item is a drill with a wire brush end to remove and smooth the gasket surfaces. This is not a difficult job to do,really. Pulling the distributor is easy,I can word you up on this procedure,very simple. I am going to try to finish mine up this weekend. I got my fuel line problem resolved. A fellow coworker made one up for me.
So,when I get off work today,its off to the garage. I will be posting more pictures including distr installation.

Dave
 
Thanks, Dave, I appreciate that. Dave, what manuals do you have? Shop/Service? What reading material did you/do you use for this? I'm still looking to buy manual(s). Thanks! :)
 
The only manual I have is the 'official' 1981 GM shop manual.

Dave
 
Where'd you get that? I think that's what I'm looking for for my '78. Thanks!! :)
 
I had a lot of free time this weekend to work on the vette. A freind of mine at work who is expierenced in bending steel brake and fuel lines offered to make a fuel line for me. I needed the line 1" higher than the stock line since the 2101 manifold raises the carb in the front about 1 inch. He brought into work Friday and it fit perfectly! I owe him one.
Here is the completed set up.
 
One final problem was encountered. Since I am going to continue to use my computer controlled carb-distr set up I will need an oxygen sensor and coolant temp sensor. I originally had planned to put the 02 sensor where the brass plug is in this picture. However,I forgot the upper rad hose location. The upper hose would not fit onto the therm housing with the sensor in place.
 
I will have to drill and tap the pvovided boss area on the other side of the manifold. The sensor has 3/8 pipe tap threads. So I went to our local plumbing supply and bought the proper tap for $6.50. I need a 37/64" drill bit to to start the pilot hole. I will borrow one of these from my buddy at work and hopefully get this car running next weekend.

Dave
 
Here is the boss on the manifold which I am going to tap.
 
I used a Professional Products Cyclone manifold on my 75 and it had four sensor holes already drilled and tapped on all four corners. That would of made life easy for you but it's too late to change now.
 
Yea,not a big deal really. I would have been cruising around Sunday afternoon if it wasn't for that.

Dave
 
Dave, I won't have to worry about this tapping and boss and drilling because I'm using my stock manifold, right? This sort of thing doesn't concern me? I just need to buy a new gasket (and some sealant?) and change the gasket, right? Thanks!! :)
 
Stallion said:
Dave, I won't have to worry about this tapping and boss and drilling because I'm using my stock manifold, right? This sort of thing doesn't concern me? I just need to buy a new gasket (and some sealant?) and change the gasket, right? Thanks!! :)

You shouldn't have to worry about any of that.
 
TR - Like Bob said,you will not have any of these 'problems' I had.
Yours will be quite simple,actually.

Dave
 
BURGLAR said:
TR - Like Bob said,you will not have any of these 'problems' I had.
Yours will be quite simple,actually.

Dave

I hope so. ;) For me it's just a matter of removal and replaced of the gasket and then assembling back again with all stock parts. Hopefully something I can handle (besides lifting the cast iron manifold :D).

Dave, you pointed me to helminc so I went to there site and is this what I want? http://www.helminc.com/helm/product...ype=K&mscsid=W33CKANVL5V48L87GPTGPHPCVT9TCDQD

Or am I looking for something else? Is this what you got (except for your Vette year) for you Corvette that you are referencing? Thanks!! :)
 
service manual or shop manual ?

TR - I deal with this company frequently through my place of buisiness. I am going to call them tomorrow and clarify on this and get back to you. I have a 'shop' manual and the website you provided states 'service' manual with a bunch of other models thrown in. My shop manual is specific to a 1981 corvette not a generic one like the one I saw in that web site.I will check it out and post here tomorrow. Don't worry about getting your manifold done,it's easy and all of us here can take you through it step by step.
Talk to you tomorrow........................Dave
 
It's all done

I finished up my intake installation over the weekend. I took it for a test drive yesterday evening. There is definitely a noticeable difference in power. Edelbrock claims a 15-20 hp gain,I agree. The car idles just like it did before but has a low end torque increase that is very pleasing!!
I would highly recommend this addition to your car. I spent $114.95 for the manifold from Sumitt,with another $50 for gaskets,antifreeze and a thermostat.
I purchased the 2101 with no EGR. If you own a 1981 Corvette and are going to utilize your stock carb and distributor you will need to tap and drill the manifold on the right hand side for the coolant sensor (see previous explanation in this post). I deleted my EGR and AIR system. As long as you have an operating coolant sensor,baro sensor(vacum) and o2 sensor you WILL NOT get a check engine light. Try to use a carb mounting insulator no thicker than 1/8" to maintain proper carb to hood clearance ( I have about 1/2" which Edelbrock says is ok). I wanted to keep my original air cleaner to maintain a 'stock' apperance under the hood.
When installing the aluminum 2101 make sure to tighten the bolts in the proper sequence outlined in your shop manual. Tighten the bolts in increments and finally to 30 ft lbs. Recheck torque on the bolts after you have driven the car for a while.
When doing an intake job like this its a good time to replace spark plugs,check and replace wires,dist cap and rotor. I also went with a slightly hotter spark plug than the AC R45TS. AC does not make a plug hotter than the R45's any more so I went with a set of Autolite 26.

Here is a picture of the completed project.....

Dave
 

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