Pictures of correct 1959

[brorjonny]

Thank you Tom Back from my garage (i am just there in the weekends. Here are pictures from engine and tach. Both heads had the same number.




Also have started to clean under. I am using paint remover.


I will check that block in Kansas but how can i be sure its ok? Is it possible to ask someone in the corvette sosiety to go and check?
Jonny
PS: if you want to se the midnight sun or the nothern light, you are welcome!

 

[brorjonny]

Tom. One stupid question : what do you mean with Driveline?:eyerole

 

[Tom Bryant]

Jonny,

The heads are for a 1958 cast Nov 11, 1957; not correct. Your tach is correct and most likely original to your car. The date is perfect. I'm confident that your car was either a 230 horse base motor suffix code CQ or a 245 horse suffix code CT dual carb engine. Both engines were identical except for the choice of either single or dual carb. That's why they both used the same tach. Odds are it was a single carb engine with 5487 built opposed to a 245 with only 1417 built. But you could build it either way and be correct. There really isn't ant way of telling which of these two it was without having some original paperwork to document it.

There are no stupid questions. The Driveline is the NCRS classified ad publication that comes out 6 times a year. It is also available online on the NCRS site at www.NCRS.org . I guess I assumed that since you said something about the NCRS manual that you were a member. if you haven't joined yet I highly recommend that you do. It's very hard to do one of these cars without using NCRS as a resource.

Tom

 

[brorjonny]

Thanks Tom ! So that means i maybe could get some money for my engine if i start to look for a more correct one?
Jonny

 

[brorjonny]

Forgot, yes i am a member

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks Tom ! So that means i maybe could get some money for my engine if i start to look for a more correct one?
Jonny

Yes you could. With American cars being popular over there I would think there would be a demand for engines.

Tom

 

[brorjonny]

Hi Tom. Is it this one? I have contacted the seller.

 

[Tom Bryant]

That's pushing the 6 month window. A D is a passenger car block but it is a Flint block so that is good. Lets see what the seller has to say. That CQ block I referred to would go in your car without restamping and be a better choice. It's on page 32 bottom ad in center column of the Jan-Feb Driveline currently on the NCRS site. The problem is that most Flint blocks that could be used because they are dated close will not have a Corvette stamping. That's what makes this one attractive. I've never warmed up to the idea of restamping a block, although it's done all the time. Spending a little more money to get a real Corvette block is preferable.

Tom

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

I looked up the ad.

"1958 283 V8 Complete Engine Stamped: FIII4D. Dated: K 13 8. Cast: 3756519."

K138 is November 13 1958. This barely squeezes into the 6 month NCRS guideline- which is an arbitrary line in the sand for judging purposes only and not reflective of typical GM practices. Any judge worth his salt would question this engine, even more so that the pad would also need to be rebroached and restamped to make the story plausible.

This engine case is only marginally more authentic than the present example, not worth the effort and expense.

Unless the OP is going to be showing the car or having it judged (unlikely in Norway) there's little point in spending large amounts of money when no engine will ever be the original.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Very true. I'd search a 283 Flint block within a month of my build date. That shouldn't be too hard to find. Then I'd deck it during the rebuild and not worry about re-stamping anything on the pad. I'd rather have a missing stamp due to the rebuilding process than have a casting date way out of the window or an incorrect stamp.

Tom

 

[brorjonny]

Jonny,

Here is an example of '59 engine parts for sale in the latest issue of the Driveline. It's a base motor 519 block stamped CQ cast 12/12/58 with a pair of 550 heads cast 12/29/58 and a correct oil pan. $4500.00 US and located in Kansas. This engine is a little early for your car but it is well within the six month window. Given the problems and expense with shipping this is definitely something you want to have someone check out for you before any money changes hands. The best numbers in the world are not much good if there are cracks or if it has already been machined past it's usable limits.

This is from a private seller and they can ask whatever they want. It seems a little high to me but they are becoming fewer and harder to find all the time. This is just an example.

Tom

Hi Tom. Sorry to bother you again but i called to Kansas and talked to his wife but they wouldnt like to involve themselves out of the country. They seems like nice people and hope you or someone could help? Qe could use e mail : bror.jonny.bergman@gmail.com.

 

[Toms007]

Where in Kansas is it? Maybe I can help out!

 

[brorjonny]

Where in Kansas is it? Maybe I can help out!

His name is Marvin ; 13167886519
Thank you ))

 

[Toms007]

What would you like me to try to do for you? By the number, it appears that he is in the Wichita area, about 4 hours from me.

 

[brorjonny]

Hi. If you first could give him a call to check what condition the engine has would be perfect. Then if everything is ok help me with the purchase . Thanks Jonny

 

[Toms007]

I'll see what I can do.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Since this will be a long distance purchase there are a couple things I would require before proceeding. I would ask the seller if he would take the block and heads to a local engine machine shop and have them checked and magnafluxed checking for:

cracks in the block or heads

bore diameter and condition of the bores (if it's already been over bored past it's maximum or in need of a sleeve or two say no)

condition of all threaded holes (If it has a stripped hole or two and that is all that's wrong, those can be heli coiled.)

and condition of the block deck surface (because you are trying to save the original stamping, if they say it must be decked this is way too much money)


Then have the shop issue a certificate stating the results. Taking a chance on these parts being good and then opening up the crate on your side and finding problems is not worth taking a chance on. If the seller refuses to do this then I'd pass on this one and keep looking. For this much money he should be able to accommodate your needs since you are so far away and also Tom is 4 hours away and can't easily see it in person. Most dealers in the business of selling restoration blocks will supply a magnaflux certificate with the purchase. I wouldn't buy one I couldn't see first hand without one. You could offer to pay for the inspection if it passes. You will need to do these things before you rebuild it anyway so you will just be one up on the situation. But pay only if it passes.

If all works out you will need to make separate arrangements with Tom to pick up the block and get it shipped. Maybe there is another member or friend in the area that can also assist. I have no idea what it would cost to ship an engine over there.

Tom

 

[Toms007]

Excellent suggestions Tom. If jonny wants to make contact again with the seller and arrange for those things it would make it easier for me to make the trip and make arrangements to package it up and ready for shipment.

 

[brorjonny]

Since this will be a long distance purchase there are a couple things I would require before proceeding. I would ask the seller if he would take the block and heads to a local engine machine shop and have them checked and magnafluxed checking for:

cracks in the block or heads

bore diameter and condition of the bores (if it's already been over bored past it's maximum or in need of a sleeve or two say no)

condition of all threaded holes (If it has a stripped hole or two and that is all that's wrong, those can be heli coiled.)

and condition of the block deck surface (because you are trying to save the original stamping, if they say it must be decked this is way too much money)


Then have the shop issue a certificate stating the results. Taking a chance on these parts being good and then opening up the crate on your side and finding problems is not worth taking a chance on. If the seller refuses to do this then I'd pass on this one and keep looking. For this much money he should be able to accommodate your needs since you are so far away and also Tom is 4 hours away and can't easily see it in person. Most dealers in the business of selling restoration blocks will supply a magnaflux certificate with the purchase. I wouldn't buy one I couldn't see first hand without one. You could offer to pay for the inspection if it passes. You will need to do these things before you rebuild it anyway so you will just be one up on the situation. But pay only if it passes.

If all works out you will need to make separate arrangements with Tom to pick up the block and get it shipped. Maybe there is another member or friend in the area that can also assist. I have no idea what it would cost to ship an engine over there.

Tom

Hi Tom. This is a very good sollution. I will ask Tom to call the seller and ask if this is a sollution

 

[brorjonny]

Excellent suggestions Tom. If jonny wants to make contact again with the seller and arrange for those things it would make it easier for me to make the trip and make arrangements to package it up and ready for shipment.

Is it possible that you could call the seller since he dont want to talk with me? Ask him if this is a sollution? Then we can go further. Shipping shouldnt be more than max 1/2 k. I have bought cars before and payed 1.5k for shipping. Hope you can help !