planning ahead for motor reassembly

[stepinwolf]

Sounds good Bary

Barry,

I understand your need for understanding a process, rather then just doing something by the book and not knowing, or caring why.

I also expect that by understanding the procedures, and products used, you will be ready to answer questions from other " neewbies " yourself, when the time comes.

Good luck with the rebuild,,,, I will be watching ;squint:

Stepinwolf

 

[BarryK]

Good luck with the rebuild,,,, I will be watching ;squint:

Stepinwolf

that's what scares me.......... especially the squint!

 

[paul67]

Barry,
Another interesting thread! I have used Permatex Copper in the past with success but it is useful to learn that a more modern product is now on the market.

Given your problems with timing in the past, now is a good time to check that your distributor gear dimple is pointed in the right direction: towards the rotor tip. Mine was not and this lead to situation where proper timing had the vacuum canister butting up against the intake runner. That was solved last year.

BTW, I took the opportunity to shim the shaft as well. The play was !! 0.027" !! and I brought it down to 0.009".

 

[BarryK]

Paul

excellent point on the distributor but luckily one that was taken care of in Sept. Lars tuned my car back than and during that tuning he did work on the ditsributor, reshimmed for proper tolerances, the dimple is positioned correctly, new points and springs, new correct Vacumn can (the old one was an incorrect model), etc., and I've already purchased a new rotor and distributor cap to install.
Between that work and the carb currently getting a full rebuild I expect it should run decently - as long as I don't mess up too badly.

 

[Kid_Again]

Interesting responses. I've learned a few things.

I would add that I always clean new bolts before installing them with a sealant. Probably a bit over the top but new bolts will have residual oil left on them from the manufacturing process. I just put them in a paper towel and hit them with a shot of 2+2. You will be amazed at how much oil is blown into the towel.

I echo the point about avoiding wd40 when installing bolts.

Finally, you should log onto the Permatex website and download their catalog. It explains in simple terms the usage conditions for its products. That's where I learned to NOT use RTV (any RTV) to seal the gaps in my intake manifold because it's not compatible with gasoline. I used their MotoSeal product. I know, I know, that was a Bubba fix but I am NOT pulling those #(&*&$ heads...and the fix worked.

When all else fails, read the directions

Good luck.

 

[BarryK]

Kid
that's the reason I try not to feel bad about starting so many threads that I normally think are such "newbie" type questions. It turns out it's not always as simple as i think it should be and it seems many others reading the threads seems to get some benefit also.
Rob, you hear this?? I want a raise for all the good threads I start......

good point about the new bolts, i'll be sure to clean them before using. I would never have thought about that.

hmmmmm, your comments about the RTV are interesting since it seems the vast majority of people recommend their use, whether it's the cooper or the grey versions, or whatever. Using the Permatex RTV seems to be the "standard" practice on intakes.
When people as knowledgable as JohnZ, Stepinwolf, and others all recommend that product for this purpose it makes it hard to vary from the accepted method.

 

[61 Silver]

Hi! Barry

I would be careful using too much silicone sealant for the front and rear intake gasket. I have used the rubber gasket and a silicone/aluminum sealant recommended and provided by my engine machinist. I have read post where too much sealant has broken off and worked its way into the oil flow.

I would also set up a torque ft lb or in chart and a torque sequence and create a check list. I know the veteran engine builders or hobbyist that have done it before may not need it, but a first timer needs a plan. I would hate to see a thread started about low oil pressure, leaks and vacuum leaks.

Just a thought while I take a few minutes away from my project.

 

[BarryK]

Ray
great advice, thank you!

I was going to check in my shop manual and AIM for all the torque amounts but laying it all out in a spreadsheet would make things much easier, plus that way as I complete each step including torqueing down to the proper amounts I can check it off the list and at the end I'll know I didn't accidently forget anything and that everything was torqued down correctly.

Easier to look at one spreadsheet printed out than having to keep flipping thru the books at each step also

 

[Kid_Again]

Well, that's what happens when you ask for a lot of advice

Kid
that's the reason I try not to feel bad about starting so many threads that I normally think are such "newbie" type questions. It turns out it's not always as simple as i think it should be and it seems many others reading the threads seems to get some benefit also.
Rob, you hear this?? I want a raise for all the good threads I start......

good point about the new bolts, i'll be sure to clean them before using. I would never have thought about that.

hmmmmm, your comments about the RTV are interesting since it seems the vast majority of people recommend their use, whether it's the cooper or the grey versions, or whatever. Using the Permatex RTV seems to be the "standard" practice on intakes.
When people as knowledgable as JohnZ, Stepinwolf, and others all recommend that product for this purpose it makes it hard to vary from the accepted method.

...the fact of the matter is that some of the guys who post here know more than i will ever know but you should pick an expert and follow the advice for the sake of consistency...i tend to read the instructions that come with a given product and the only product in the current permatex catalog that is advertised as compatible with gasoline is MotoSeal (which is why i used it on my intake manifold)....RTV has some statement about compatability with most shop fluids

i'm not siding with one or the other guys that i trust, just saying what's on the label

good luck

 

[paul67]

Barry,
My Bad for not keeping up to date.

FWIW, I use Permatex Copper on the intake ends, Permatex 2 (non-hardening) on the intake bolts (threads only) and Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket on the valve covers (cork gasket and on both sides). We all have our favourite formulas and tend to go with what worked. Those worked for me.

Have fun. It's 20F outside and I am still doing some fine-tuning on the house. But when -20F comes it will be ready.