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Polishing your car

garylt

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
55
Location
DesMoines Ia
Corvette
2005 Corvette, Black 6 speed Coupe
Hi, Has anyone one used the Diamondite speed clay or Z-18 clay bar on your car to remove oxidation. garylt
 
Sorry, I have not used those brands. I have however used a clay bar on my car. Let me tell you, if you haven't used it before it was a very scary experience. I was so concerned about scratching. Use plenty of lubrication. The surface contaminants I lifted onto the clay bar was amazing. If you have clayed before you know what I mean.

Good Luck to ya
 
Normally, a clay bar will not remove oxidation. They are used to removed any surface particles/deposits on the surface of the paint. They will give that perfectly smooth feel.

Depending on how back the oxidation is, you may just be able to use an orbital buffer with cleaner type wax, you may have to get it buffed with a high speed buffer, or worse case, you may have to get it wet sanded if it is really bad.

Anything above an orbital buffer, I don't recommend you try yourself unless you know how to do it and have experience with it. High speed buffing and/or wet sanding cause ruin your paint if not done correctly.
 
Clay will usually just load up with oxidation making it hard to use, and it won't remove it all. How bad is the oxidation? I believe all C4's were clearcoated, so they really shouldn't get too oxidized. A chemical paint cleaner is the best/easiest way to remove oxidation, though they generally won't do a lot for swirls. I'd suggest that for a first step.

I have Diamondite Speed Clay, but have yet to try it. I bought it for glass, though. I wouldn't use that yellow sponge it came with on my paint!
 
Hi garylt:

The only way to properly "clean" clearcoat, that has surface imperfections, is with high speed buffing or wet sanding, preferably with 1800 or 2000 paper (generally used to remove factory orange peel, which depending on ones perspective is or is not desireable). Both should be left to a professional or someone with a lot of experience. I have been polishing cars for 35 years and generally use Meguiars Mirror Glaze, their pro line, with a yellow sponge pad and a Milwakee 2800 rpm buffer (some experts will say a slower speed is better, however I get great results with the fast machine). Depending on how badly scratched the finish is one would start with the No. 3 or 7 and then move to the No. 9 for fine polishing. Then follow with a quality wax for protection. When properly done the finished product is incomparable to anything one could accomplish by hand or Orbital buffer. Please keep in mind this process only resolves fine surface imperfections, not scratches that can catch a thumbnail. Hope this helps.

markone
 
Markone brought up a good point I forgot. Whether you have to high speed buff, or wet sand, it is a multi step process.

If it is bad enough and you have to wet sand, the next step is a couple steps of high speed buffing, then onto an orbital for the final coats.

If it is just high speed buffing, that is a few steps then onto the orbital.

Basically, you start with the most agressive compound/sand paper, then work your way up to the finer ones step by step.

When I first got my 91, it had water spots on the top surfaces. I had to wet sand, high speed buff 2 times, wash the car the clean up the mess, then I started the Zaino application process. It took every bit of a day.

But, like we oth said, leave the wet sanding or high speed buffing to a pro, you can destroy yout paint if you don't do it correctly.

I detailed cars for 5 years back after high school and in college. I saw a few Porsches/MBz/Jags that people tried to fix themselves by buffing. A few needed new paint jobs and we salvaged a few others.
 

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