2VettesMike
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2006
- Messages
- 131
- Location
- Blk Mtn, NC
- Corvette
- 1972 Bryar Blue Coupe 1993 40th Coupe
Well I drove it work this morning with great brakes but that's where the story ends.
In the beginning....
Hit the brakes going over a paved trench in the road and the pedal went hard. I thought it might have been ABS kicking on since they worked fine until I left an appointment and went to stop for a red light. Brake pedal felt like a brick and lots of hissing from under the dash.
DIY part....
I had the old booster out in about three hours. The tips as I see it:
Remove seat (you will thank me when you try to get under the dash to unbolt the booster)
Remove bottom carpeted hush panel and the underneath aluminum panel
Remove clip from booster rod to brake pedal
Slide rod off pedal and make sure it's clear
Get deepwell socket, 3/8 swivel, extension and ratchet to loose bolts at inside firewall
When nuts are nearly loose if you have it use one of these retractable grabbers with the flexible housing (even with my skinny hands it was the only way to get one nut off without dropping it and it also worked well to start them back)
Remove ECU (keep cables connected just move it out of the way)
Unbolt cruise and fuse block holder from inner wheelwell liner
Remove rear half inner wheelwell liner
Remove left front fender (where battery hides)
Disconnect battery
Disconnect hood latch cable and cruise control cable
Unhook large rubber hose that goes to EGR/recirculation valve that's near the bracket (extra room is handy to remove the bracket
Remove bracket from firewall/hood latch that goes down to frame near exhaust manifold (the only way I could get the booster to clear)
Unbolt master cylinder but do not remove the brake lines
Move the master cylinder to the front by pushing the cruise actuator out of the way and turn master cylinder slightly sideways,(it will have enough slack on the steel lines it just doesn't look that way)
Unhook vacuum line from booster and remove
Putting the new booster in, about two hours.
P.S. I got to do the job twice, the first booster was a rebuild through NAPA, great folks and parts but the rebuilder goofed the rebuild. The problem, the pedal shaft was too short by about 3/8", didn't catch it in the visual comparison. It showed up when the brake light switch ran out of adjustment and the pedal appeared to be closer to the floor. Luckily I had only installed the booster and tried it out before bolting all the rest of the crap back up. I through money at the problem in interest of time and ordered a new GM booster.
Thanks,
Mike
In the beginning....
Hit the brakes going over a paved trench in the road and the pedal went hard. I thought it might have been ABS kicking on since they worked fine until I left an appointment and went to stop for a red light. Brake pedal felt like a brick and lots of hissing from under the dash.
DIY part....
I had the old booster out in about three hours. The tips as I see it:
Remove seat (you will thank me when you try to get under the dash to unbolt the booster)
Remove bottom carpeted hush panel and the underneath aluminum panel
Remove clip from booster rod to brake pedal
Slide rod off pedal and make sure it's clear
Get deepwell socket, 3/8 swivel, extension and ratchet to loose bolts at inside firewall
When nuts are nearly loose if you have it use one of these retractable grabbers with the flexible housing (even with my skinny hands it was the only way to get one nut off without dropping it and it also worked well to start them back)
Remove ECU (keep cables connected just move it out of the way)
Unbolt cruise and fuse block holder from inner wheelwell liner
Remove rear half inner wheelwell liner
Remove left front fender (where battery hides)
Disconnect battery
Disconnect hood latch cable and cruise control cable
Unhook large rubber hose that goes to EGR/recirculation valve that's near the bracket (extra room is handy to remove the bracket
Remove bracket from firewall/hood latch that goes down to frame near exhaust manifold (the only way I could get the booster to clear)
Unbolt master cylinder but do not remove the brake lines
Move the master cylinder to the front by pushing the cruise actuator out of the way and turn master cylinder slightly sideways,(it will have enough slack on the steel lines it just doesn't look that way)
Unhook vacuum line from booster and remove
Putting the new booster in, about two hours.
P.S. I got to do the job twice, the first booster was a rebuild through NAPA, great folks and parts but the rebuilder goofed the rebuild. The problem, the pedal shaft was too short by about 3/8", didn't catch it in the visual comparison. It showed up when the brake light switch ran out of adjustment and the pedal appeared to be closer to the floor. Luckily I had only installed the booster and tried it out before bolting all the rest of the crap back up. I through money at the problem in interest of time and ordered a new GM booster.
Thanks,
Mike
