Power Brakes

[sagnoff]

Has anyone added a brake booster to a 67 to convert to power brakes? Is it worth the effort?

 

[JohnZ]

The (correct) boosters aren't cheap, and you'll need a new short line from the front outlet to the block on the frame, and either a new rear line (PITA) or some creative work with a flaring tool and a union to adapt/lengthen the existing rear line to reach the rear outlet on the moved-forward master cylinder. '67 Power and manual used the same master cylinder (casting #5455509), so you don't have to buy a new one.

You'll also need to remove the driver's side vent grille to attach the upper anchor plates for the two upper booster support bolts.

 

[IH2LOSE]

a flaring tool and a union to adapt

Flaring tool is a double flare tool specifly for brake work not a single flare Sears has one for around 30 dollars

And the union must be made for the double flare you canot use the compression ones you find in a hardware store!

 

[JohnZ]

Yup, double-flares (I use an Imperial-Eastman double-flaring tool - have one for 37* AN fittings and another set for 45* SAE inverted-flare brake fittings); unions are BRAKE fitting unions, not "plumbing" or "compression" unions.

 

[Sting Ray]

I believe Cannons corvette has just came out with a repo correct '67 brake booster.


Tom

 

[sagnoff]

Do you think it's worth the trouble to put in the powerbrake?

 

[JohnZ]

My '67 has manual brakes, and they feel pretty stout after driving my other cars with power brakes, but after a few miles I adjust to it and have no problem. We're all spoiled from the low pedal effort from our modern "driver" cars with power brakes

 

[sagnoff]

Thanks John. My daily driver is an M5, so I guess I'm a little spoiled.

 

[Sting Ray]

My dad is thinking of doing this conversion, how hard is it to mount the booster "corectly"? His car is a '65 and he was going to put a '67 style system on it to get the dual resevoir, so it would never look exactualy correct for his year. But make it look like a factory job, not "Bubba" installed.


Tom

 

[JohnZ]

The booster will bolt right up to the existing studs from the pedal support that stick through the dash; all he'll have to do is remove the driver's side wiper arm and vent grille, use the upper booster leg holes as a template, drill two holes, and install the upper bolts and nuts, and re-install the grille and wiper arm. Nobody will ever notice that you used loose nuts and washers inside the grille cavity instead of the factory riveted-in nut plates, especially if you paint them black.

 

[Sting Ray]

John,

Thanks for all the info, I didn't think it looked like it could be to tough when I was looking through a '67 assembly manual.



Tom