problems shifting into 2nd

[cabbie]

Hello, my first post here - just been reading all the other informative posts up until now. My problem - I've recently acquired a 1963 327/340hp that is in good condition. However, the car does not seem to like second gear. It will usually grind when trying to shift into second. In the cases where it does shift into second, it will pop out of gear shortly after. I don't have any problems with any other gears. Any ideas on where I should start to fix this problem?

Thanks.

 

[studiog]

Let me first say I am not an expert on the subject but I am pretty sure you need a new second gear synchro. Also the BW t-10 trannys are known for popping out of second gear anyway. There is a part to fix that problem too.
Sorry I don't know much more than that but maybe you willget some better replies soon.

 

[1KULC7]

I just finished rebuilding the 4 speed transmission in my Corvette too. I had to replace all the syncos, and the 2nd and 3rd gears as teeth were missing. I think if you dig deeper you will find the gears might have to be replaced too.

 

[Viking427]

Also, if you have a Hurst shifter, many of them have 2 shift arm "stops" (1st/3rd, 2nd/4th) on the shifter body that could be preventing 2nd gear from engaging all the way.

 

[65TripleBlack]

Cabbie:

Most rebuild kits (and I assume that you will be rebuilding this unit) contain all new bronze synchronizer rings, in addition to gaskets, seals, bearings, roller bearings and cages, idler shaft (in your case--7/8" diameter). The most common cause of the condition you describe, is the 1-2 synchro, BUT in many cases, the synchro hub is also worn. Additionally, excess play in the mainshaft thrust bearings will contribute to this problem.

Your 1963 Corvette was originally equipped with a Borg Warner T-10 trans., but at this late date, anything is possible. Please post any identification stampings on your maincase, to verify what you have. Then, if you have no experience with the rebuild, get back here and someone can recommend a good Borg Warner (Muncie????) rebuilder.

Joe


PS: Additionally, most maincases leak at the point where the idler shaft is pressed in. Most good rebuilders will either bush your maincase, or (recommended), ream it to 1" diameter and install a later , 1" OD cluster shaft.

 

[FireFly]

Before you go for the obvious, just make sure your shift linkage is set up properly. I had the same problem in my 65 and thought I'd need a rebuild. Took it to my friend (a mechanic with basically the same car) for him to look at.

He put it up on the lift and said "I have good news and great news, which would you like first?"

He then said one of the bolts/nuts had come loose from the linkage. That was the good news. The great news was the fact that it had fallen but was resting on something underneath. He picked it up and put it back together again and I was on my way.

One of those freak things and I don't know how the piece did not fall onto the road while I was driving around but it was my lucky day I guess.

So check the linkage and then go for the syncro's/rebuild.

 

[66427-450]

Sounds typical..... Don’t feel alone, the 1-2 shift is usually the most violent, and takes it's toll on the internal parts thru the years... odds are it will take more than a blocker ring change (the brass ring referred to above).….. unless you want to become a trans expert yourself, spend you time/effort finding a transmission mechanic that you can trust, and turn it over to him......

PS: assuming your linkage/shifter is OK, which it probably is.....

 

[vigman]

My 64 had a similar problem

On the shift arm there is a bushing.. mine was GONE.. and it popped out of 2nd now & then.

get the car in the AIR.. and take a LOOK at the linkage & the tranny mount.. BEFORE you spend the BIG $$$$$$

Your shifter linkage could be OUT of adjustment ( it's a CHEAP starting point.) and quite telling.

Mr Gasket sells a bushing & clip kit for generic GM for 15.00.

Vig~