Purge Valve

[captainrags]

Can anybody help. Im looking for a Vapor Canister Purge Valve the electric one and all I seem to find are the smaller units that are not electric.

1996 LT4 6 speed
Ray



:W

 

[Hib Halverson]

Can you be a bit more specific about your needs?

Do you need the canister purge solenoid or the canister purge valve. Also, from your sigline, we'll assume this is for a 96 with the LT4 (VIN 5) engine, but if it's not, post the application.

 

[captainrags]

Can you be a bit more specific about your needs?

Do you need the canister purge solenoid or the canister purge valve. Also, from your sigline, we'll assume this is for a 96 with the LT4 (VIN 5) engine, but if it's not, post the application.

I need the Vapor Canister Purge Valve NOT the solenoid. Yes its a LT4 Vin) 5 1996

apreciate any help
Thank you
Ray

 

[vetteoz]

I need the Vapor Canister Purge Valve

Rockauto

RockAuto Auto Parts

 

[boomdriver]

Rockauto

RockAuto Auto Parts

YES! like that one,,, the one that leaks charcoal dust all over the headlite arwa in the nose ! yep, thats the one !otfl

 

[Schrade]

I need the Vapor Canister Purge Valve NOT the solenoid. Yes its a LT4 Vin) 5 1996

apreciate any help
Thank you
Ray

Did you confirm presence of vacuum at the cannister when you jumped the purge solenoid? If no one can post the 12V schematic, you can still bypass the switched purge port, to see if vacuum carries THROUGH the vac line AT/TO the EVAP cannister.

 

[captainrags]

With motor running, I had good vacum on intake and with unit disconected from ecm stimm had vacume not so strong.
Ive had trouble locating part. Today i found unit but listed as
1996 CHEVROLET CORVETTE 5.7L 350cid V8 MFI (5) OHV : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Evaporator Tube Switch. Hoping this will work as most units dont have the elect connection

 

[captainrags]

purge

Did you confirm presence of vacuum at the cannister when you jumped the purge solenoid? If no one can post the 12V schematic, you can still bypass the switched purge port, to see if vacuum carries THROUGH the vac line AT/TO the EVAP cannister.

There has been some terminoligy issues the two parts 1. the "vapor canister purge valve soleniod" the square unit and 2. the "Vapor canister purge valve"
I purchased both however the solenoid seem ok but the valve dident have electrical connections so hopfully this new purchase im waiting for will be the correct one. As part numbers have changed and all are very simular numbers verry confusing.
With the testing i removed the hose from fuel tank to find suction! was I wrong?

 

[captainrags]

I must have opened a can of worms Today i replaced my radiator top suport it was a pain in th enexk to do now car dosent want to start just hope when draining the water it dident run into the dist let it sit overnight!!!

 

[Schrade]

There has been some terminoligy issues the two parts 1. the "vapor canister purge valve soleniod" the square unit and 2. the "Vapor canister purge valve"
I purchased both however the solenoid seem ok but the valve dident have electrical connections so hopfully this new purchase im waiting for will be the correct one. As part numbers have changed and all are very simular numbers verry confusing.
With the testing i removed the hose from fuel tank to find suction! was I wrong?

With the testing - the solenoid bypassed either 1) by jumping the 12V switch, or 2) bypassing the vacuum port, then NO, you were not wrong, and YES, you should have had vacuum at the tank, under either of those 2 conditions.

But which did you do?

Did you jump the solenoid - to complete the electrical circuit, and 'activate' vacuum?

Or did you disconnect the vacuum tubes at the solenoid, and connect them, which would have also supplied vacuum?

 

[captainrags]

With the testing - the solenoid bypassed either 1) by jumping the 12V switch, or 2) bypassing the vacuum port, then NO, you were not wrong, and YES, you should have had vacuum at the tank, under either of those 2 conditions.

But which did you do?

Did you jump the solenoid - to complete the electrical circuit, and 'activate' vacuum?

Or did you disconnect the vacuum tubes at the solenoid, and connect them, which would have also supplied vacuum?

No I removed the line coming from the rear of the car and felt the suctions on the intake opening of the purge valve, for the two tests
I did not jump the solenoid just ran the eng with wires pluged in and out only on the Valve, as the tank or line coming from the rear goes into the valve and thats what i refer to as the valve intake port this is of course before the solenoid. therfore it apears to me that the valve should be open with its wires pluged in and closed when the wires are out but it was not the case there was suction all the time but less when the wires were out. I will put the old solinoid back on tomorrow and with the existing valve test it again. If I can get it started.

 

[Schrade]

No I removed the line coming from the rear of the car and felt the suctions on the intake opening of the purge valve, for the two tests
I did not jump the solenoid just ran the eng with wires pluged in and out only on the Valve, as the tank or line coming from the rear goes into the valve and thats what i refer to as the valve intake port this is of course before the solenoid. therfore it apears to me that the valve should be open with its wires pluged in and closed when the wires are out but it was not the case there was suction all the time but less when the wires were out. I will put the old solinoid back on tomorrow and with the existing valve test it again. If I can get it started.

The valve is not supposed to be open always, just because the 'wires' are plugged in (to the solenoid).

The EVAP has a purge duty cycle, which is NOT continuous, and I think is NEVER purging at idle.

If you have vacuum pulling at the gas tank at idle, you might have a broken purge solenoid, that IS making the purge continuous - perhaps the solenoid is stuck in the circuit's 'closed' position.

You need the schematic to show HOW the circuit completes (like the ground wire grounding out and completing the circuit), WHEN it completes (purges) x rpm's, x mph, closed loop, etc., , and then you can check that the circuit is 'open' at the other times, NOT in purge mode.

 

[Schrade]

I know it an old one but, just replaced the top radiator suport and now she just wont start cranks good and then smell of alot of fuel dident touch distribitor check and double checked all my work this has never hapened before any help would be apreciated, 1996 LT4.
Ray


:confused ;help

I think maybe stick at this thread, and solve this electrical problem (if I understand what's going on as you describe). The electrical problem MIGHT be what's holding you from starting.

So maybe lets make sure what's going on in the purge solenoid - if the problem is electrical THERE, and it's continuous, and not intermittent, it is easy to fix.

DO you have FSM? Do you have multimeter?

 

[captainrags]

I think maybe stick at this thread, and solve this electrical problem (if I understand what's going on as you describe). The electrical problem MIGHT be what's holding you from starting.

So maybe lets make sure what's going on in the purge solenoid - if the problem is electrical THERE, and it's continuous, and not intermittent, it is easy to fix.

DO you have FSM? Do you have multimeter?

yes on service manual 1 and 2 and multimeter

 

[Schrade]

You need to find then the duty cycle description for EVAP purge, and then find the test description/flow chart (will be in a different section from the description, I believe).

Your description sounded like it is always in purge mode, with vac supply at the tank. If so, the question will be 'Which parameter is triggering the 12V supply TO the solenoid'? Something like faulty speed signal, rpm signal, etc. Look at each 'condition for purge'.

 

[captainrags]

You need to find then the duty cycle description for EVAP purge, and then find the test description/flow chart (will be in a different section from the description, I believe).

Your description sounded like it is always in purge mode, with vac supply at the tank. If so, the question will be 'Which parameter is triggering the 12V supply TO the solenoid'? Something like faulty speed signal, rpm signal, etc. Look at each 'condition for purge'.

I have a dr visit now but just tryed again this morning repositioned the air intake looked like it might have been not sitting correctly under the front clamp and then messed arround some more disconected the solinoid and it started, and ran for a short time???? I will be back at it in about an hour. also its now trying to run at end of starting crank sounds like one cylinder.

 

[Schrade]

This wont start is driving me crazy check and check about all I can do with my limited knoledge.
I have service eng soon light but no codes except second air error I will replace the small tubes tomorrow in that area.
this started after replacing top radiator suport but have been having trouble with purging manual hasent helped and I get confused with all the eng control stuff.
Would appreciate any help that I can use



;help

You have a DEFINITIVE electrical problem in the EVAP purge circuit. Creating multiple threads is not necessary, and it is going to throw even the best diagnosticians off track, missing [a] definitive clue.

You said when it was running, you had vacuum at the emission hose at the gas tank.

At idle, I think it should NOT have vacuum. Vacuum is activated by voltage TO the electrical purge solenoid. This opens an air valve at the solenoid, and allows vacuum to go TO the EVAP cannister, and it purges collected vapors.

I THINK as vacuum accumulates in the cannister, it allows vacuum to extend TO the tank. After x minutes, power is SUPPOSED TO CUT OFF at the solenoid.

Based on what you've said, you have voltage where you should not, WHEN you should not. Think of it as water flowing out of a hose. Depending on the size of the hose, you'll have NO water elsewhere, to start the waterwheel [engine].

Do you understand post#15?


ed.:
My '98 FSM says that the EVAP solenoid is ALWAYS energized by pulsewidth, and the circuit closes by a driver module - a sort of 'ground switch', in the VCM. It says the first test for continuous purge command is to put a test light on VCM connector 3 (colored clear), pin #2. Look at the socket - it is numbered 1 - 12/13 - 24, or 1 - 16/17 - 32. See if 12V grounds out on that pin. It should NOT.

Did you find the circuit description in the '96 FSM?

 

[captainrags]

I’d like to thank all who helped me out with my “cranks but won’t start”.
Today after several days of tinkering I finally won. If anybody interested this was the scenario I had been chasing a “non purge” issue and while waiting for some parts decided to replace the top radiator support as it was cracked in several places due to somebody hitting the passenger’s side front, cracking the paint work and moving a few bits around the replacement went well difficult but was finally accomplished after about 4 -5 hours many cuts blood and cursing due to my plavix intake.
The engine then would not start, so thru the system I went, following the manual the best I could fuel press was good and everything felt good it did fire up and I immediately attempted to bleed the water system at the thermostat, but dropped the plug and water leaked and eng stopped figuring it stalled. I dried off everything waited a day looked into the purge system again as this is where I still suspected the problem was, I also used compressed air to clean the area wd40 etc. It would not start this was when it posted help thinking it was the purge system and other issues ii replaced several vac lines check spark fuel, coil ect again following the start procedure NADA.
Let it sit for the new year decided to get a bit more serious today removed all low voltage wires from the distributor air intake throttle body eng the purge system pulled the steering pump reservoir away so I could get to bottom of distributor, ran hair dried for 3 hours on area and wires removed the small rubber inserts on the back of all wire connectors and heated and air blew them as now thinking there was a water issue more so than an purge system problem as I did find very small traces of liquid not sure if it was water or oil, I used cotton buds as well as rags and heat.
Put it all back together held my breath and bang started on the first hit lots of smoke due to the exhaust being somewhat full of whatever after all the cranking. I don’t have the purge 441 anymore but I will play with that when and if it returns, however the car does seem to have a bit more power.
I would like to thank all for the help I was truly appreciated even the comments READ THE MANUAL constantly you were right!! as an ex mechanic of 30 years yes times have changed immensely but this hasn’t stopped me from tinkering again but did learn a good lesson real the book!!!
Ray

 

[candyjoe]

Can anybody help. Im looking for a Vapor Canister Purge Valve the electric one and all I seem to find are the smaller units that are not electric.

1996 LT4 6 speed
Ray



:W

Hi, the canister purge valve is electric, prt#212-358, go to ebay, costs about 10.00

 

[candyjoe]

The part you are looking for is a canister purge valve and is electric, part #212-358, has two ports, go to ebay, costs about 10.00