radiator advice

[billyvette]

Hey guys, looking at a new radiator for the 78 and wanted to hear some suggestions. Looking at about 350\400 hp engine down the road and want to go ahead with a radiator that will accomodate the future engine. I have an auto trans.

Prices, suggestions and tips greatly appreciated.

Is this job bad as I have heard? Some have said to remove the entire front support?

thanks for input

 

[Jack]

billyvette:
I do not sell radiators, but I know where some deals are. There are many here who've done either replacement or upgrade ... we can help point the way if we know what you might spend and some indication of your mechanic savvy.

Can you deal with having a bracket fabbed & welded? ... and ... What is your budget?

FYI, Motorville (1-888-463-0482) has what I've found as best retail price on Northern double-one-inch aluminum "UNIVERSAL-FIT" ... 19" X 31" is $158 and 19" X 28" is $150. Northern is USA and as good or better quality & design than Griffin. Ready made brackets & rubber pads under $20. Motorville also has Trans Coolers for about $25 and good prices on cranks, rods, gaskets etc too. Call Motorville & get a free catalog.

No, radiator support does not have to be removed ... but you'll probably need to loosen its bolts and tilt it a bit ... removing hood will ease things a lot.

Again, abilities & budget?
JACK:gap

 

[billyvette]

i have fair mechanical skills, i am doing a header and true dual exhaust install right now. i can't do a whole lot in fabrication, but can pull off some stuff. i will definetly change the radiator myself. prices you mentioned are definetly within my budget.


thanks for your response

 

[90 KOTH]

Try the L82 radiator

I simply upgraded to the L82 radiator from Discount Auto Parts (now Advance). It's a 4 row core vs. the 2row core on the L48. It fits with no mods. Mine's a 79 auto which I suspect is same as 78. I have no cooling issues running a 450 hp 406 with auto and AC. Can't remember what I paid but it was reasonable.

Phil

 

[billyvette]

I have a l82 rad now, looks like the original rad. as well.


I'm not running hot just right up around 200 with a 160 thermostat and want to run the a/c this summer without any worries.

 

[Jack]

I have a l82 rad now, looks like the original rad. as well. I'm not running hot just right up around 200 with a 160 thermostat and want to run the a/c this summer without any worries.

Temps you have now seem normal. Make sure entire system (inside & out) is real clean, all shrouds/seals in place, fan clutch AOK ... all that should hold hipo + AC. IMO a 180 t'stat should work OK w/ AC in your locale ... if it requires 160 then something's amiss. Temps of 210 are not bad. Typical dash temp gages are often inaccurate & should be checked against a known standard liquid thermometer.

If it hasn't been done in a few years ... a proper cleaning & flush may be in order. In several current service bulletins (i.e. #99-06-02-012D), GM suggests Prestone Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner (Prestone P/N AS100) ... GM also has it under GM P/N 12346500 ... it's a dry chemical & about $6 a canister at GM dealer ... very hard to find this anymore at parts houses. Suggest pick up the bulletin referenced above; it's not for a vette but is a solid guideline for most any ... your GM service dept can print out one at no charge. Buy a canister of cleaner & new t'stat & new cap ... spend a half-day cleaning & flushing ... then replace t'stat & cap.

IMHO ... the liquid rad cleaners commonly available at parts houses today (including liquid prestone) are simply too weak to cut any substantial deposits ... don't waste your time w/ liquid. Go with what GM suggests ... the dry chemical works VERY well and (when used as directed) is safe for aluminum, brass-copper, iron, plastic & steel.

BTW ... I do not use DEX-COOL or other extended-use coolant ... they react w/ air to form a clogging, rusty sludge. After a good clean & flush as above ... I use only the good old green stuff ... it's far less reactive than DEX-COOL. Use green stuff; replace it every two years.
JACK:gap

 

[72Mako]

Billy, if you don't mind the fabbing, looks like you can save some bucks from the above posts. In my case I chose to go with a Be-Cool alum radiator for my modified motor. It was designed as a drop in unit. The shround fit right back up, the unit dropped right into the factory saddles and the hood clears the radiator cap. No cooling issues in traffic or on extended 100+ mph bursts. Got it from Summit, but is pricey. Put my 30 year old original numbers matching unit in the attic. Also a 10-4 on going with the green antifreeze too. Charles

 

[Eddie 70]

I used a DeWitts direct fit radiator. Looks exactly like the factory radiator but it is aluminum and cools fantastic. My car never gets over 180 while in motion, or 200 when in traffic or setting still. It is a little pricey but I did not have to fab anything. Hoses are the same factory hoses, drops right in. Fill it up and go.

 

[81 Corvette]

i busted the aftermarket one that was in my 81. Busted the lower hose mount off of it. Anyways, i was in a pinch and needed one same day, so off to autozone i went. 4 core for 250, life time guarentee. I'm almost scared its gonna run too cold now. The only time its been above 200 was when i forgot to reconnect the fans. i have the dueal flex-a-lite set up. Currently with an outside temp of 60, it only gets up to about 150-160.

Btw, IMO, everyoen should dump there clutch fans for a electric set up. Its so nice to be able to work on the motor without the shroud getting in the way.

 

[billyvette]

Billy, if you don't mind the fabbing, looks like you can save some bucks from the above posts. In my case I chose to go with a Be-Cool alum radiator for my modified motor. It was designed as a drop in unit. The shround fit right back up, the unit dropped right into the factory saddles and the hood clears the radiator cap. No cooling issues in traffic or on extended 100+ mph bursts. Got it from Summit, but is pricey. Put my 30 year old original numbers matching unit in the attic. Also a 10-4 on going with the green antifreeze too. Charles

WHat did this rad. cost? Have you ran the car in hot 95 degrees F and higher?
It gets hot in MS in the summer.

 

[JohnZ]

I'm not running hot just right up around 200 with a 160 thermostat and want to run the a/c this summer without any worries.

The thermostat has absolutely nothing to do with warm weather operating temperature - it only determines the MINIMUM operating temperature, like in the winter, so you get heat from the heater; it won't run any cooler in the summer with a 160 than it will with a 180. The only thing that determines warm-weather operating temperature is the radiator's heat rejection capability and the volume of airflow through it to carry off the heat. Both thermostats have the exact same opening size and flow exactly the same amount of coolant when they're fully open (which is all the time in the summer). 160 thermostats were used back in the 30's-40's-50's when people used alcohol-based anti-freeze in the winter, as the alcohol base would boil off over 180*. Use a 180* 'stat.

 

[72Mako]

WHat did this rad. cost? Have you ran the car in hot 95 degrees F and higher?
It gets hot in MS in the summer.

Billy, I've been running this radiator for about 4 years now. It handles hot summer days just fine, in traffic or on the freeway. Make sure all seals are in place, air dam is not damaged and fan clutch is good if you run one. Don't remember exactly how much I paid, but a search on Summits site or catalog will have a price. Charles

 

[mike weyman]

i have put a 4 core in mine,you will have no further cooling issues.mike

 

[bossvette]

I have a 4 core L-82 in mine with a flexilite black max electric fan with no trouble for the last 3 years

 

[billyvette]

thanks for all the responses, are any of you running a flex fan with no electric fans? I have talked to some on here who have the flex fan with no fan clutch and no auxillary electric fans.

again thanks for the replies.

 

[Fishman]

billyvette...

I put a 350hp ZZ engine in my 78 two years ago. I simply had the stock radiator cleaned and painted. I have had ZERO issues cooling the car... and it's flippin' hot here in Texas. I have even raced the car hard at TMS on the inner road course... temps went up to about 210, but immediately back down to about 200 during the cool down period.

Regarding the fan, I have stayed with the Heavy Duty GM clutch fan, works great.

IMHO... Save some money and stick with the stock radiator and HD clutch fan.