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Ramps that fit the tires of a Z06?

C

caps

Guest
I have been trying to find good ramps that I can drive my Z06 on to change the oil. I have been having trouble locating any that will accomodate the width of the tires.

Any information appreciated.

Caps...
 
Rhino makes ramps that should accomodate your tire size. I run 275's and they fit just fine; it won't hurt any if there is a little overhang I imagine.
 
I saw the rhino's and figured the little tire overhang would not hurt, I just though if a specific type were out there that would be the way to go. Are the rhinos plastic or metal? I've heard the plastic ones are really quite sturdy.
 
I guess you could call it plastic. It's a synthetic material of some kind! :L They are actually quite strong, yet lightweight.

Ken
 
Ken said:
Rhino makes ramps that should accomodate your tire size. I run 275's and they fit just fine; it won't hurt any if there is a little overhang I imagine.

Ken,

Do you have contact information for the manufacturer of these ramps? A web URL perhaps, or an 800 number?

Thanks,

Ray
 
You can actually buy the rhino ramps at Pep Boys, Walmart, or any other auto parts store. The cost about $30.
 
I got 'em at Pep Boys. I think it was more like $49 at the time.

_ken
 
danl72 said:
I got mine from Walmart for $30. Sorry Ken.

Okay, Dan, I'll drive up to the Northridge Walmart and get one set for $30 (and stop by and say hello).

And then, Ken, I'll pop back down to Hermosa Beach, buy another set for the rear for $49, and we can talk about Corvettes for awhile. I think there's room in the trunk for both sets.

That would make the average price $39.50. I still save a ton changing the oil myself, and besides, I get to fondle the oil pan.

I can use the second pair as a Christmas gift for my neighbor with the Torch Red C5 coupe.

Thanks much to both of you for the pointers.

Ray
 
Rhino Ramps

danl72 said:
I got mine from Walmart for $30. Sorry Ken.

Dan,

Couldn't find a Walmart (didn't have my Valentine 1). :D

Went to the Pep Boys in Costa Mesa. They had them on sale for $24.98.

The package says "works with low ground clearance cars" and shows a photo of a C5.

Thanks for the pointer, Ken!

Ray
 
$24.98!! :upthumbs

You'll probably still need some assistance in getting enough clearance Ray, I use a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood squares at the front of the ramps to reduce the chance of dragging the spoiler across the ramps.

You can back up on them easily enough though! ;)

_ken :w
 
Ken said:
$24.98!! :upthumbs

You'll probably still need some assistance in getting enough clearance Ray, I use a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood squares at the front of the ramps to reduce the chance of dragging the spoiler across the ramps.

You can back up on them easily enough though! ;)

_ken :w

I was going to ask you about that. Very thoughtful of you to point that out. I'll be off to Home Depot to get some 3/4" plywood.

Ray
 
What's the best method for getting all the old oil out? Jacking the rear up to make it level?
 
rwd said:
What's the best method for getting all the old oil out? Jacking the rear up to make it level?

On my C4 cars (L98 and LT1) I put the front of the car on jackstands and the oil drained completely. I have a tank that has a clear plastic gauge on the side so you can measure what comes out, and if you dump the oil from the old oil filter in it came very close to five quarts.

I can't use my floor jack on the Z06 (it's too low) so I haven't been able to change the oil myself. The Chevy dealer did tell me it takes longer to change the oil on an LS6 because it takes more time to drain. I don't know whether that's true, or whether that was just his way of saying there were cars ahead of me for oil changes.

One point where you may get differing opinions is on whether to run the engine for a few minutes prior to draining the old oil. The logic supporting that technique is that this makes the oil warmer and therefore less viscous allowing it to drain faster.

On the other hand, when you do that it seems as though you are putting oil back up into the valve gear in the heads, making it take longer to eventually drain back down into the pan and out the drain hole.

I don't start it before draining, on the theory that if the car sits for a long period the oil drains down into the pan and thus you get more of the old oil out.

I should point out that I live in Southern California and it never gets cold here and I use Mobil-1 5w30, so it's not as if the oil has the consistency of maple syrup after it sits overnight. In colder climates it may make sense to warm it before draining it.

One tip I picked up years ago is to fill the new oil filter with oil prior to screwing it in. This reduces the time it takes to get oil circulating back through the filter and minimizes any scuffing due to not having enough oil available when the engine cranks for the first time after the oil change.


Ray
 
I haven't checked, but my understanding is that the drain plug location is not at the rear of the pan in this instance and prevents all the oil from being drained completely unless the car is level.

The advantage I've heard to changing the oil when it's hot is that it carries away particles in solution that might otherwise settle out.

FWIW...
 
Here is how I put my Z06 on Rhino ramps:

http://www.picturetrail.com/gmblack3/647207

As you can see I put a 2x6 in front of the ramps to get a bit more clearance. The front black spoiler will still rub a bit, but its flexable and won't hurt it.

I also put a towel over the 2x6 and under the ramp. The front tires kind of pull the towel and keep the ramp from sliding fwd.

For oil changes I use the 2 front ramps, I drain the oil and remove the filter (the 1st time you remove the filter from the factory, You might have to drive a screwdriver thru it. Its very tight) I then get out from under the car and jack up the rear of the car about 4-6" higher than the front. That way all the oil will drain out. I then wait till the oil is drained out and lower the rear, then I get back under the front of the car. Fill the new filter, install it and then install the drain plug. I got a magnetic drain plug from the Dealer for $3. The part # is 88891787.

Also if you use the UPF44 filters, they are a different size for a filter socket than the stock PF44 filters.

I use 4 of the Rhine ramps for changing gearbox oil and diff fluid. You can also do the CAGS defeat when you are under there. I did the CAGS defeat the cheap way:

http://www.ls1.com/link_cags.html
 
Thanks, that's very helpful.
 

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