Rear Disk Removal Help!!!

[Redmanf1]

I think that I would at least use these for the rear it will help make it a little more stable over the stock rubber ones. When you put power with traction to these rears they start doing funny things and any thing that you can do to make them more stable the better they will react. The parts will stay together longer. That way you will not need to be doing repairs to the battery and or the jack storage box when the half shaft takes a peace out of them. Been there and done that. I hope this helps and anything else that I can answer for you let me know.

 

[Redmanf1]

Another thing when you pull your trailing arms off tape and mark the shims on each side of them together so when you put it back together it will be close in alignment. If you go with the new ones just make them the same thickness as the old ones and it will be good enough to get you to the alignment shop.

 

[70 VETTE 454]

WOW......
so much info, where do i begin. you know i just got my vansteel book in today and i was looking at some of those same items. but you explained more than the pics i saw.
now for the ????

Shim set....
these go in that notch where the T/A connect to the frame right....
which end is used, the hole or the slotted side. im fixing to take my trailing arms off, and i did notice those rusted shims in there, but i didnt rerally know what their purpose was....i got a better idea now though.
now if these are for aligning the T/A bar, then what will they do to it at the alignment shop.
do i have to take the remainder of my shims to them or what. what if they use some crapy ones, id rather use my new ones.

 

[70 VETTE 454]

Offset railing Arms......

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm

i have been considering this option, too.
since i will be using 355 / 35 / 18 on the rear,
but my question is, if they are offset, how will the stock halfshaft still fit in the same place. dosent the halfshaft to spindle conection now stick out a few more inches.....i just cant invision how they still work on there.
i did talk to a dude at VBP about this and the whole susension thing a week or so ago, and he was also suggesting this for my wide tires, but he said i will need to loose my rear sway bar, and adjust my rear leaf to some degree. and also something about some kinda independent suspension that takes the place for the rear sway bar.
sounds like tooooo much work. but still an option, what do you think.

 

[70 VETTE 454]

Rear Diff cover.....

this doesn’t seem like you trust this cover too much.
do you know if they actually hold up any better than stock. and why the need for just a stronger cover replacement, aren’t the gears back there what are most important. what benefit dose a stronger cover replacement do.
I don’t know too much about rear ends?????


Urethane is definitely going all under my car....., no rubber for me, and I already got that energy suspension polly urethane kit awaiting my install, but that was when all I was going to do was change out bushings and use what I have, but since it is all off, I am now contemplating going for newer more updated parts as well....

 

[Redmanf1]

Yes that is where they connect. You use the slotted end. The bolt goes through the slotted end. The old ones will not have the slot and yes take them the ones that you have left. What they do is loosen the bolt and either pull or insert the shim as needed. As before in the old ones you would have to remove the bolt each time to change the shims. Most no one done it correctly. I do not know the history of your car but look in that area for rust. If I remember correct that bolt is hard to get out length wise. I think it depends on how far your car is apart. I would knock it out so far and cut it off and then take a punch to knock it out the rest of the way. Like I said it’s been a long time since I worked on those years and I am going from memory. I started when I was 16 doing basket cases.

 

[Redmanf1]

I do not believe you will lose your rear sway bar. The spindle placement does not move all you are doing is in denting the trailing arm. Take a look at each of them and you will see what I am talking about.

 

[Redmanf1]

What the T/A does is let you put more wheel under the car. When you get your wheels you get deeper backset. The rear covers are weak and will break at the ear. Some people use to weld them long ago. The rear is like a ford pig it does not affect your rear gears to change it. It is easy once you are as far as you are. I think it would be a wise move. Just my 02

 

[Redmanf1]

I think the guy you talked to was either not clear in what he was saying or he did not know what he was talking about. Your car is independent suspension I think it started in 1963. Yes the heaver rear covers hold up better. They break at the bottom ear where bolt goes through.

 

[70 VETTE 454]

Well, as I was taking off my half shaft connectors to the spindle, I did look at my shims, and I have one slotted shim on each side, the rest are stock plates. but I did take note and pictures of the for when I replace them, thanks again for the tip.
since no one really dose it correctly in aligning the rear anymore, where do you recommend to get this done at. or have you had any good experiences with anyone auto alignment place with that.

the rust on my car is slim to none, and there is no rust there at all.
right now I have my body off the frame and on jackstands.
the only parts left on my frame are the engine, transmission, differential, rear shocks, rear strut bars, and trailing arms..... which I'm fighting with to get the spindle out of right now......
so basically its just the frame minus the 3 major parts.....I have basically unlimited options, but still deciding which ones to take.

 

[Redmanf1]

You will need to press the rear spindle out. Try to find a good tire shop and most of them will have a four wheel alignment machine. Ask to watch most of the work. If it is a good shop and you have the new slotted shims it should be no problem to get a proper alignment. It might cost a little extra because of the time involved.

 

[70 VETTE 454]

thanks allot for the info....
well been busy at work so haven’t had much time to finish the rear yet, but im back at it today. just one part left, then its off.
but now that’s the part where im stuck, so ill do a post about it for help.
I got pics too which as soon as I sit down long enough to put them all on, ill have it for all to see.....
thanks again for your help...
Dave

 

[Redmanf1]

I am glad I could be of some help.

 

[70 VETTE 454]

Hope I can return the favor, in one of your posts, sometime.

well since this is my 1st restoration, I have done allot and I have learned allot, thanks to you and all the helpful people here on this forum. and if it wasn't for Chris (69MyWay) I probably wouldn't even be here at all, and she would still be there in the garage waiting for me to get started on this whole process.

but since I am just going thru it, I know there is someone out there that may need help with something I have already done, and input my 2 cents worth......
appreciate all the help, but something tells me I'm not done yet, and ill be here asking away again too......
Dave

 

[70 VETTE 454]

well finally done with that part, and on to the rest of the rear end.
thanks for the help guys in keeping my project moving along. the rear differential is the only thing left to take off to have it completely stripped back there.......
heres pics of the rear disks that were giving me problems.....

dave

 

[70 VETTE 454]

before......

 

[70 VETTE 454]

after.....

 

[69MyWay]

David,

I am glad to see you getting the hang of banging this thing apart.

Soon, you will be going the other direction....and that is really fun.

Hurry up and make your mind up on the suspension parts, and we can start pressing out the bushings. You will want to get that bad boy painted and detailed soon.