Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

Rear End change

Nope, I don't have that. Hell, from that picture, I can barely even visualize where it's at on your car! ;shrug
If anything, it looks like my original trans crossmember.
 
I know they make true dual exhaust kits that make the bend for ya, but Im sure a custom muffler/exhaust shop can bend them the way you need them as well.
So you dont have this huh. Wonder if anybody can confirm if the undercarriage is different on 82 vs 80/81's.
The crossmember basically runs right behind the driver seat. That pics is the underneath of the drivers seat looking to the back.



Evolution1980 said:
Nope, I don't have that. Hell, from that picture, I can barely even visualize where it's at on your car! ;shrug
If anything, it looks like my original trans crossmember.
Click to expand...
 
Rebelrob said:
The crossmember basically runs right behind the driver seat. That pics is the underneath of the drivers seat looking to the back.
Click to expand...
It runs side-to-side or ???
 
If you decide to go with a 700R-4, I reccomend not using the Bowtie. I bought a stage 2 and put it behind my 383. After only 15000 miles, the converter came apart and took the trans with it. I took it to Phoenix transmission and they showed me the parts that came out of it. The servo was for a truck. The clutches were low performance. The sprag was used(they estimated more than 100K miles on it). I was never happy with the performance of it either. Phoenix built me a new 2500 stall converter and rebuilt the trans with high perf parts. Now, when it shifts into 2nd, if I'm going around a corner, it will make the car jump sideways about 3" or so. It just snaps into gear. No more soft shifts. Plus they gave me twice the warranty that Bowtie did. Just my $.02.
 
Ok thanks. It has a 700r-4 already, but plan to have it rebuilt.
 
This is a good thread, I have the same concern with the stock drivetrain in my 1980 L82. Im planning on swapping in a 383 stroker...in particular a 383 from Blueprint engines that makes 405hp/440tq. I currently have the stock TH350, but will be replacing it with a built 700r4 because I need the OD, so the tranny isnt really a concern. My concern is my differential....I have a stock 1980 rearend rebuilt 2years ago with 3.70 gears.

As far as going to a 5spd, I seriously considered that. I was looking at a complete kit from keisler-automotive.com. It came complete with a TKO-500 and every single thing needed to install, but I just cant spring that much cash for the tranny and motor lol.

Evolution, would you really recommend the TH400 over the 700r4? I just want something strong that gives me good OD to make up for my 3.70s.
 
80VetteL82 said:
Evolution, would you really recommend the TH400 over the 700r4? I just want something strong that gives me good OD to make up for my 3.70s.
Click to expand...
First, if you are getting a bigger engine and will be doing mostly street driving and not at the drag strip (save for a maybe rare occasion), I'd get the 200R4 instead of the 700R4. Quite frankly, the 700R4 wasn't worth the assache in getting all the custom parts made to make it fit (crossmember, driveshaft, etc). The 200R4 will give you the same OD but it's a drop in trans. Only difference is the 700R4 has a taller first gear making it more aggressive. Since you already have 3.70's, the 200R4 would be a better fit, IMHO.

Second, if you think you would really be happier with a stick shift, then keep your current trans and just save your pennies for another year or two. The current trans/rearend setup will (should) hold up just fine for a few more years or longer depending on how often you bury the throttle from a stop.
With hindsight being 20/20, I really wish I had done the 5 or 6-spd conversion rather than go with the built up 700R4. But whatcha gonna do...;shrug I got anxious and bit the bullet rather than waiting an extra season or two. (It especially chaffed my ass when I had to pull the 700R4 after the front pump failed. The cost to R&R the trans was the monetary difference between it and a manual trans conversion :mad :eyerole)
 
So is the 2004R a good transmission? I remember hearing it had a good amount of problems and wasnt a solid tranny...although, who knows if that source was reliable. Yah, I would like a 5spd but I really cant wait...with 3.70s and the TH350 I really cant go anywhere with the car. Plus, itd probably be nicer to have an automatic for the strip. How much can the 2004R take as far as strip time? I mean, I wont be going very often, just every once and a while... but who knows... I actually just went for the first time like 2 weeks ago, but that was in my Cobalt SS turbo.

Im just excited to start this whole swap. Ive had this car since I was 16 (Im 21 now), and I have been making plans for years and years. Now Im finally in the position where I think Im ready to take it on. Im going to start pulling the motor in a couple of weeks hopefully...
 
I've heard the same thing about 200r4. Her is a example. 2000 miles after the factor warrenty was up my 85 el camino the tranny dies in my driveway. GM wont touch it. I took it to a indendent trany guy he told me the 200s where junk and GM knew it. The car only had 52000 on it so he convinced me to overhaul it. The failure was the main pump vains. I did recover 2/3rds of the bill from GM through the BBB. Now my elkey has 140000 on the clock and the trany is wasted again. I might just have a lemon here but who knows. Bottom line, I am planning the 200r4 swap in my 81 just because its a direct swap out from the th350c. I'll just have to pick a very reliable trany builder. Last thought, I am pretty hard on stuff....:boogie
 
80VetteL82 said:
So is the 2004R a good transmission? I remember hearing it had a good amount of problems and wasnt a solid tranny...although, who knows if that source was reliable
Click to expand...
For all intents and purposes, the 200R4 is the same as the 700R4, the only difference internally being the first gear. First gear is more aggressive in the 700R4.

From what I've heard over the years (mostly anecdotal?) was that the first gen R4 transmissions were problematic. That's why most rebuilders use the later model ones from the mid-90's and up. However, I'm not familiar enough with them to be able to speak as an authority.
 
Actually, the 2004R and the 700 are quite a bit different. The 700 is larger in nearly all respects inside and out. That being said, the 2004R was my choice for my 81. I knew it could be built to handle the horsepower I was intending and I like the gearing of it better than the 700. First and second are pretty far apart in the 700, it's a tight fit in the tunnel, the cross memeber has to be modified and the drive shaft has to be shortened.

I always read the 220 is a bolt in. Nope, not really. I can tell you that it is a direct bolt in as far as the engine is concerned but that's it. The trans mount is 7 inches farther back than the TH350, that means modifying or buying a different cross member. The 200 has a lock up torque converter, so if you’re putting it into an 80 vette, you'll have a little wiring work to do, but that's really not a problem, it's really easy. And you'll have speedo calibration to do, which is normal on a trans swap anyway. You’ll also have to modify your shifter so you can reach the new 1st gear (or you can spend $200 and buy a new shifter). The 200 can certainly hold horsepower. I over built my trans, it should hold nearly 800hp. I put in several billet parts, hardened parts, heavy frictions and steals, servo's, plus modified some existing parts. I know it's overkill, but I didn't want to have to do it again!!
 
Well as everyone knows the 700r4 that came with the 82 were the first of thier kind and had many issues and weak links. The trans mechanic told me they typically failed after 30-40k miles. Come to find out, mine had been repalced when they pulled it. They perfected the 700r4 in 1987. The 87-92 cores are the ones you want. I do not have list of differences as its late and I need to get to bed, but I recently had a rebuilt 90 model core installed in mine. Mechanical lock up over the electronic, got a 2200 stall torque converter and a adjustable shift kit. As for the rearend 80-82, yes they are weaker than the cast iron, but if it aint broke.. yet... then don't fix it/replace it. Should give you many years of service depending how heavy your foot is and the drag strip visits. I will probably go to cast iron eventually.
 
Koop said:
I think he wanted the specs for your Vette, not your wife's car.
Click to expand...
Aww, man, "Ouch!" You're killing me here! Just turn the knife a little bit more why don'tcha??? :bash :L
 
Evolution1980 said:
Aww, man, "Ouch!" You're killing me here! Just turn the knife a little bit more why don'tcha??? :bash :L
Click to expand...

Just kidding!

ZZ4 is a great motor with all the right toys!
 
Koop said:
Just kidding! ZZ4 is a great motor with all the right toys!
Click to expand...
Yeah, up until the first time I lost a race... :L
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

lothian
Out with the Old Rear Suspension, in with Modern Aftermarket
Replies
0
Views
665
lothian
lothian
B
Minimal Surge Every Now and Then
Replies
2
Views
402
Tom Bryant
Tom Bryant
H
Vert drivers window front to rear adjustment
Replies
0
Views
487
HIGHRPM
H
cor123
CORVETTE RACING AT SEBRING: SPOILER
Replies
0
Views
111
cor123
cor123
S
Driveline vibration 1993 C4 Auto
Replies
2
Views
984
Steve40th
S

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center? Join now! It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom