Rear hubs from ebay

[joshwilson3]

Has anyone bought any of the rear hubs from ebay? They've got some for a good price.

I noticed a slight wabble on the rear driver hub, but the rest were tight. Though, the PO had the ujoints replaced on the rear driver half shaft. And when I had the wheel off, I noticed the nut retainer was loose. So, I'm gonna have a shop tighten up that spindle nut to spec and see what that does. As maybe whoever replaced the ujoints didn't tighten that nut up to spec causing the wabble I'm noticing.

When driving I do notice a click when stopping and taking off. And a knock every once in a while. Sounds like it is coming from the driver rear. And a whirrrrrring sound or maybe a humming sound I guess when I get over 15 mph.

The halfshaft ujoints check out fine. So, I'll see what torquing that spindle nut to spec does. If there is still some wabble, then I may get a new hub from ebay.

And I figure instead of paying a shop to install it. I could use that money to buy a $20 36mm socket and a 200 ft/lb torque wrench from the auto parts store. As I believe that spindle nut gets 200 ft/lbs.

 

[gmjunkie]

Has anyone bought any of the rear hubs from ebay? They've got some for a good price.

I noticed a slight wabble on the rear driver hub, but the rest were tight. Though, the PO had the ujoints replaced on the rear driver half shaft. And when I had the wheel off, I noticed the nut retainer was loose. So, I'm gonna have a shop tighten up that spindle nut to spec and see what that does. As maybe whoever replaced the ujoints didn't tighten that nut up to spec causing the wabble I'm noticing.

When driving I do notice a click when stopping and taking off. And a knock every once in a while. Sounds like it is coming from the driver rear. And a whirrrrrring sound or maybe a humming sound I guess when I get over 15 mph.

The halfshaft ujoints check out fine. So, I'll see what torquing that spindle nut to spec does. If there is still some wobble, then I may get a new hub from ebay.

And I figure instead of paying a shop to install it. I could use that money to buy a $20 36mm socket and a 200 ft/lb torque wrench from the auto parts store. As I believe that spindle nut gets 200 ft/lbs.

If the spindle Nut is loose,that could be your pop,wobble and whirring!!
If it's been loose too long, the bearing could be damaged!!
If the bearing is wearing,that could cause the Nut to loosen up!!
Axel Nut Torque spec. 164 ft lb's!

 

[joshwilson3]

If the spindle Nut is loose,that could be your pop,wobble and whirring!!
If it's been loose too long, the bearing could be damaged!!
If the bearing is wearing,that could cause the Nut to loosen up!!
Axel Nut Torque spec. 164 ft lb's!

I know the book says 164 ft/lbs. for the spindle nut. But then I read someone say GM issued a bulletin and changed it to 200 ft/lbs to get rid of clicks.

I just thought it was odd the only hub that had a wabble was the same side that the PO had the ujoints replaced at the halfshaft.

Though, I'm not sure if that spindle nut is loose. I just know the nut retainer is loose. Whereas the other side is tight. So, when I take it in to the shop to have them gauge my rotor thickness. I'll have them pop that nut retainer off, and torque the spindle nut to spec. And then see what that does. Got any idea what size cotter pin?

Do you just tighten that nut retainer on by hand? It doesn't look like it takes a socket.

If the wheel still has a wabble after that spindle nut gets torqued down. Then I guess I'll get a new hub. As I do hear a wirrring or humming sound at over 15 mph. Which I think that is the wheel bearing.

 

[vetteoz]

Has anyone bought any of the rear hubs from ebay? They've got some for a good price.

Ask where are they made? ( not put in the box with USA on it)

If in China as most cheap hubs are then looks like you answered your own question
Corvette Forum - View Single Post - American made wheel bearings!

Corvette Forum - View Single Post - Rear Hubs revisited
Corvette Forum - View Single Post - The Never Ending Wheel Bearing Thread....

 

[joshwilson3]

Where are they made? If in china then looks like you answered your own question

Yeah, it is hard to say on ebay. Which is why I figured I'd ask if anyone has already bought some there.

But I had been searching and came across a company that gets good reviews. Wheel Bearings Inc. Made in USA. They used to sell direct, but now only sell through vendors. The price through them was $60 a piece for the rear. But I say it is now more through a vendor. So, I'll give them a call. Then I also heard of Corvette Wheel Bearings. If none of that works out, I could go with Corvette Recycling at $130 for NOS. But I did read of one guy with a NOS hub that fell apart in no time. I guess the theory was the oil or grease leaked out or dried up being NOS.

But what I will do is get both spindle nuts torqued to 166 ft/lbs just so I know they both are torqued. Then I'll have them loosen then tighten the 3 rear hub bolts to 67 ft/lbs on the driver side.

That way if after that, the hub still wabbles or seems bad. I'll try to replace it myself. And the rear 3 bolts had already been broken loose, so it should be easier on me when I loosen them.

What is the usual labor rate on a rear hub replacement? Depending on that, I may try it myself. But I'll need to buy a $20 36mm socket, and a $50+ 200 ft/lbs torque wrench from Autozone or Advance. If the labor is cheaper than that, then I may just let a shop do it and not fool with it.

The only thing is in a Corvette magazine tech article. It said the shop book says to tighten the spindle nut with the wheels off the ground. So, I wonder with someones foot on the brake if that will be enough for me to torque it down with no power tools.

 

[TedC]

1989 FSM: 66 lbs. for the hub bolts and 164 lbs. for the spindle nut. I used the spindle kit from Napa. I rechecked the spindle torque after two weeks of driving torque did not change. US vs China made hubs is not that clear. I asked my local corvette performance shop and they have had both good and bad luck with rear hubs regardless where they are made (US, Mexico, Brazil and/or China). The original rear hubs were bad in less than 60,000 miles mainly due to neglect from prior owner with camber way out of specification. First I ordered Timken rear hubs to find out they are no longer made in the US. I told AZ to keep them and ordered a pair on ebay for the price of one Timken including free shipping. Fit was perfect and the bearings were tight. Then the vette was aligned, and the tech showed me the difference on the computer how easy it was to align the rears (camber and toe). I prefer US made products and will pay more, but when US companies stuff boxes with foreign content and charge like it was US made, then I let the free market determine the going price. I do not race my vette, it still has stock rims, keep it perfectly aligned, and drive it 5000 miles per year. If you want GM parts, try this place. Corvette Recycling - High Quallity Used Corvette Parts C4-C6

 

[joshwilson3]

1989 FSM: 66 lbs. for the hub bolts and 164 lbs. for the spindle nut. I used the spindle kit from Napa. I rechecked the spindle torque after two weeks of driving torque did not change. US vs China made hubs is not that clear. I asked my local corvette performance shop and they have had both good and bad luck with rear hubs regardless where they are made (US, Mexico, Brazil and/or China). The original rear hubs were bad in less than 60,000 miles mainly due to neglect from prior owner with camber way out of specification. First I ordered Timken rear hubs to find out they are no longer made in the US. I told AZ to keep them and ordered a pair on ebay for the price of one Timken including free shipping. Fit was perfect and the bearings were tight. Then the vette was aligned, and the tech showed me the difference on the computer how easy it was to align the rears (camber and toe). I prefer US made products and will pay more, but when US companies stuff boxes with foreign content and charge like it was US made, then I let the free market determine the going price. I do not race my vette, it still has stock rims, keep it perfectly aligned, and drive it 5000 miles per year. If you want GM parts, try this place. Corvette Recycling - High Quallity Used Corvette Parts C4-C6

Which hubs did you get from ebay?

I've read alot of bad things on China hubs. Most it seems have just gotten a couple thousands or just a few hundred miles out of them.

I was looking at the Wheel Bearings Inc USA made bearings as I had seen alot getting them for around $70. But I guess they have since went to selling through vendors. And now the price is at $110. Might as well spend $130 on the NOS from Corvette Recyling.

You really have to check around on prices. I called around on labor to replace a rear hub. Just in labor. The cheapest was $88. The most expensive was $300+. I asked that shop why they are so high, he said their books show pulling the halfshaft. I guess that is something you don't have to do, but they'll just charge you to do it anyways. Though I don't see an extra $200 just to pull the half shaft out.

Can you replace that washer that is on the spindle without having to pull the half shaft out? I figured that would be good to do, but don't want to pay a ton extra for them to pull the halfshaft out to do it.

I think I'll stick with the $88 shop if I have to get the hub replaced.

 

[TedC]

Ordered from Auto Parts Direct To You items - Get great deals on 88962314, 12474401 items on eBay Stores!
Fast free shipping and lifetime warranty.
Read item description, you will may find some answers to your questions.
I have over 500 miles on them, so time will tell, but it rides so much better.
Can't say where these hubs were made. Did not say on the box or part.
I pulled the halfshafts and replaced the u-joints. I think it is possible to replace hubs without dropping the half shafts, and with the hub out, get access to the internal spindle washer. I did not replace this washer. The Napa kit provided a new external washer, nut, nut cover, and pin for $5 . I had no issue removing the spindle nut using a 1/2" breaker bar.

 

[joshwilson3]

Ordered from Auto Parts Direct To You items - Get great deals on 88962314, 12474401 items on eBay Stores!
Fast free shipping and lifetime warranty.
Read item description, you will may find some answers to your questions.
I have over 500 miles on them, so time will tell, but it rides so much better.
Can't say where these hubs were made. Did not say on the box or part.
I pulled the halfshafts and replaced the u-joints. I think it is possible to replace hubs without dropping the half shafts, and with the hub out, get access to the internal spindle washer. I did not replace this washer. The Napa kit provided a new external washer, nut, nut cover, and pin for $5 . I had no issue removing the spindle nut using a 1/2" breaker bar.

I'm betting those are China. I'm looking to stick with good known bearings. But was trying to get a deal if there was one out there. But looks like WBI prices have gone up since they started using vendors.

I've just read too many people having the China bearings fail in as little as a few hundred to a few thousand miles.

But in that ad it doesn't look good when they say: "These fail often"

Do you think you can replace that spindle washer without having to pull the half shaft? As it looks like it is $88 to do the hub, the another shop wanted $300+ as they said their book shows to pull the halfshaft. Rip off if you ask me. I don't think once they are in there, it would be $200 to also pull the half shaft.

The only problem with the spindle nut is I don't have a 200 ft/lbs torque wrench. So, I'd have to buy that and a $20 36mm axle socket. So, I figure I might as well just let someone else do it as it costs the same. I really don't have a need for a 200 ft/lbs torque wrench as I already have an 80 ft/lbs torque wrench that covers about all I've needed it for.

The cotter pin is an M4x40 in my parts book. No one has this. But it looks like 5/32 x 1 1/2 is a near perfect match. I couldn't find that kit at Napaonline.

 

[TedC]

"These fail often"

Well, my local vette shop tells me the same thing. This is my second vette, and my first one had the same issue at only 47K. Again, I think it was caused by PO not spending the money for a proper alignment. I fully understand your concern. Here is the Napa spindle kit. I found it online.

FYI: The internal washer is not the same part.

 

[joshwilson3]

Well, my local vette shop tells me the same thing. This is my second vette, and my first one had the same issue at only 47K. Again, I think it was caused by PO not spending the money for a proper alignment. I fully understand your concern. Here is the Napa spindle kit. I found it online.

FYI: The internal washer is not the same part.

Thanks. I know the internal washer is a special order from the dealer. Do you know if you can replace that inner teflon coated washer without having to pull the half shaft?

The price for replacing the hub is $87. That is the cheapest. I really don't want to spend $100+ for them to pull the shaft just to replace that washer.

Oh, and I just got back from the shop. The nut was tight, so it definantly is the hub. Plus all 4 rotors are at discard spec. That's what happens when you let a shop tell you your brakes are fine when you're in for an oil change. Good thing I checked it out to bring it in to a shop to put their gauge on it. I figured the rotors were shot as you could tell the brake pads had been eating it up.

 

[TedC]

Do you know if you can replace that inner teflon coated washer without having to pull the half shaft?

I don't see why not. If you can pull the hub off, then there is plenty of room. This is not how I would recommend doing it. Would want to pull the half shafts out so I could properly wire brush the splines. Here were my costs; large socket for spindle nut $20, spindle kits $12, hubs $130, anti-seize $7, loctite $10, u-joints $60, 4-wheel alignment $70 and 12 hours of labor. Most of this labor was spent in cleaning parts to my specs. Cost around $300. If my rotors were bad, this would be the perfect time to replace them.

 

[joshwilson3]

I think I'm leaning towards WBI if Corvette Recycling don't get any more NOS in. WBI is USA. Not sure about Timken.

But I had contacted Rock Auto. And they said they had been having more problems in the last few years with Timken hubs, and the guy recommended National or SKF instead. But those are closer to $200. So, I figured USA WBI hub at $110 would be a better deal. They all have the same warranty.

 

[geekinavette]

Don't be so sure that the WBI units are made in USA....

Q: Is your entire line Made in the USA?
A: No. Everything that we produce is Made in the USA,
but a few of the OEM units we source are produced outside
the USA (IE: Canada, Japan). Every unit we offer is Made in the USA, or
actual OEM.

I'd almost be willing to bet money that all of those hubs you looked up are made in either Japan or China.

 

[geekinavette]

This may also be of interest (I added the stuff in blue):

When I did mine that "washer" (GM 14076942) was not installed (evidently added later in the C4 run, maybe yours has them?), and I had a whale of a time finding that (dust) "seal" (NAPA 21953). The anti-seize (along with that washer) is to help reduce the annoying C4 rear end "klink" sound.

 

[joshwilson3]

This may also be of interest (I added the stuff in blue):

When I did mine that "washer" (GM 14076942) was not installed (evidently added later in the C4 run, maybe yours has them?), and I had a whale of a time finding that (dust) "seal" (NAPA 21953). The anti-seize (along with that washer) is to help reduce the annoying C4 rear end "klink" sound.

I'm betting that "Seal" is only for 84-87 with that E-brake unit. As my part schematic for 88+ doesn't list a seal just that washer. Mine is an 89.

 

[joshwilson3]

Don't be so sure that the WBI units are made in USA....



I'd almost be willing to bet money that all of those hubs you looked up are made in either Japan or China.

I called WBI, and their rear hub 513020 is made in Michigan. They use F A G ball bearings. And they said they used to make them for SKF for 15 years till SKF started making their own. And that they sometimes make them for Timken when they get a call. So, if you buy a Timken hub, you really don't know what you are getting. I do wonder if Timken is mostly China on their hubs as they are the cheapest on Rock Auto.

Got it ordered through Summit: www.summitracing.com/parts/WBI-513020/

 

[geekinavette]

That's good to know...and I'd for sure look for a "Made In USA" stamped somewhere on it.

Yes its true Timken is no longer the reliable name they used to be.

 

[joshwilson3]

That's good to know...and I'd for sure look for a "Made In USA" stamped somewhere on it.

Yes its true Timken is no longer the reliable name they used to be.

At least WBI is using good bearings, as F A G should be on par with SKF bearings. No telling what bearings are in the Timken or other rear hubs.

 

[Schrade]

I called WBI, and their rear hub 513020 is made in Michigan. They use F A G ball bearings. And they said they used to make them for SKF for 15 years till SKF started making their own. And that they sometimes make them for Timken when they get a call. So, if you buy a Timken hub, you really don't know what you are getting. I do wonder if Timken is mostly China on their hubs as they are the cheapest on Rock Auto.

Got it ordered through Summit: www.summitracing.com/parts/WBI-513020/

This they 'said' on the phone - that it's made in Michigan?

You'd be surprised at the legal definitions of some words. A product can be assembled, made, processed, milled, each in a different place, and still be called, 'made' in X place.

Laws and definitions in commerce might surprise many, if read.

Once I happened to read my receipt for gas. I bought a candy bar too, and saw that as a 'NON-food', the sale of the candy bar was subject to 'NON-food' tax here in NC. I found later that night that most snack grub is 'NON-food'.

NON-food, huh? You think you know the definition of food? I thought I did too... :confused