Rear hubs or other?

[Mart]

Yeah I have heard it's a good idea to put some grease on the hubs as mentioned.

I'm prepared for the tight workspace of the hub nuts, I think.

 

[Mart]

Here's a shot of she lower arm I removed and put the Mothers to, turned out really sweet, new Energy Poly bushings to.

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

Do those poly bushings need to be pressed in or are they hand fit?

 

[Mart]

I was able press em in by hand. They're tight, I had to press the pin inwith an Anvil press, I have a small 1ton unit.Mart

 

[Achilles]

That looks great. Still waiting for my bushings to arrive. Would a vise work for the pins or do I need a press?

 

[Mart]

Yup, a vice will work they were not that bad.

Thanks
Mart

 

[Mart]

The worst part is getting the arms back in, I think between the camber adjustment not being correct due to the wear on the bushings and a little movement in the knuckle, it makes it difficult to get the nuts and bolts back in.

I dropped the nut for the lower arm in the small hole in the frame right behind the body bracket.ad

But I got longer bolts for the spring to knuckle lowering, the guy gave me grade 8 bolts and nuts, the nuts are stover nuts, grade 8, I also got nylock nuts regular strength.

Wondering which would be best, anyone know?

Mart

 

[Achilles]

But I got longer bolts for the spring to knuckle lowering, the guy gave me grade 8 bolts and nuts, the nuts are stover nuts, grade 8, I also got nylock nuts regular strength.

Wondering which would be best, anyone know?

Mart

I always thought that the nylocks were a softer grade/ I don't know about stover.

How did you wrench the bolts out? By hand or air tool? Are you doing a complete bushing R&R?

 

[Mart]

Yup the Nylocks are a softer grade the stovers are grade 8, I used an electric impact wrench and an 18mm on the inside, **** WARNING, put a piece of take over the holes behind the nut, I dropped one in there and had to get a flexible magnet to retrieve it, not fun.


Mart

 

[WhalePirot]

grade 8 bolts, the nuts are stover nuts, grade 8, I also got nylock nuts regular strength.

FWIW, my kit from Guldstrand has Nylocks. Bolts are grade 8. No issues after 15+ years.

 

[Mart]

Does anybody have any tips on getting the last upper bolt out of the rear hub, I removed the shock and that made room to get the forward bolt out but the upper is being a pain, there is no room to work. %$##*@ ad Mart

 

[ZRXMAX]

Does anybody have any tips on getting the last upper bolt out of the rear hub, I removed the shock and that made room to get the forward bolt out but the upper is being a pain, there is no room to work. %$##*@ ad Mart

I take it you mean the torx headed bolts... I use a 1/2 impact gun with as much force as a friend and I can muster pushing inward on the bolt when the trigger is pulled on the gun... never missed yet... did you use any penetrant on ther bolt ahead of time ? it might help...
Good luck..
Ted

 

[brimis]

I used a 18" breaker bar to break the "55", after it's free just be patient and you will get the bolt out. W-40 is a must.

 

[Achilles]

Does anybody have any tips on getting the last upper bolt out of the rear hub, I removed the shock and that made room to get the forward bolt out but the upper is being a pain, there is no room to work. %$##*@ ad Mart

I just used a long extension

 

[Mart]

Thanks guys, Got em.

Another ? Does the orange seal the arrow is pointing to come off, it looks in pretty good shape. The other hub looks pretty much the same but does not have that seal.

 

[Achilles]

It looks to me that the hub with the orange seal may be an original AC/Delco part. My new replacement hubs are AC/Delco and look similar to your old ones. Your new hub looks to be an aftermarket. Judging from the pic's the hub should be a direct replacement.

 

[Mart]

Yup, I believe they are original to, 221,00 KM's on them, NOTE the welded in studs. The studs are the main reason I am changing them but there is some play.

The new hubs are SKF's supposed to pretty good.

The inside of the bearing looks identical except for the orange rubber ring, it looks like it is missing.

 

[Mart]

OK, I have searched all the books and nowhere does it say to grease on the spindle splines when installing a new hub, I have seen it mentioned here a few times.

Some are saying "Bearing grease" and others say "Antisieze" which would be best.

Mart

 

[British Bob]

HI,

I have just done this on mine and I fear that you will be disappointed with the result you get in that u will still have the movement that u had before.


I too was able to rock the rear wheel in the position that u describe. I too replaced the rear wheel bearing like you. did not fix it.

It turned out to be a knackerd C/V joint at the diff end of the half shaft. there should be no move ment in these joints as they form part of the wheel support, mine rattled around like mad allowing the movement and a pretty serious shake at about 80 mph.

The good news is that the c/v joints are not expencive and fairly easy to fit.

Oh yeah, you dont have to grease the splines.

Hope this is usefull.

Cheers

BB

 

[Mart]

I have read that a few people have not done this and have had issues, as far as being disapointed goes, No I will not, I am replacing them for a couple of reasons.

1. the previous owner welded standard studs in there and used spacers (Not adapters) to add the 17' 88 wheels. No matter what the wheels would not go on balanced.

2. there is play in the hub, the Ujoints were replaced 3 years ago, and while at this job I checked them.

3. I really wanted to get in there and clean things up. You'll see soon.

Thanks
Mart