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Rear swing arm removeal

  • Thread starter Thread starter john1977
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john1977

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Need some help on just where do I need to sawsall the bolt that holds the rear swing arm. And should I take the rear shock mounts off while swing arm is still in car or after swing arm is removed? I allready have everything else removed or unhooked but not sure if you are to get the shims out somehow or if you need to cut thru them to get the bolt cut. Also while I have the rear spring out,should I replace the composit spring with a steel spring?
 
I'd remove the shock mount first, then start trying to get the T/A off. Are you certain that you can't get the bolt out without sawing through the bolt? Several days of soaking with rust penetrant can sometimes do wonders on rusted shims and bolts.
 
Agree with Smokehouse about soaking. Sounds like you're having one of two problems. Either you can't get the nut off, or you have the nut off and can't pound/push the bolt out.

If it's the nut...soak it/heat it, etc., then try to pound/push the bolt back.

If it's the bolt stuck in the T arm, it's likely rusted to the inner metal sleeve in the T arm swing bushing.

You should have slotted shims, and should be able to pry them out on both sides. If you can't, I'd use a die grinder and get them out. That will expose the bolt on either side of the T arm within the frame pocket.

You'll then need to cut the bolt within the pocket on both sides. I've used a die grinder, hack saw and a sawzall.

One question....you do have the rear leaf spring disconnected so there is no "torque" on the bolt? Chuck
 
First of all thanks for all and any help you give. The answer to your questions are yes I have the rear spring un-bolted and yes I have the nut off the bolt that holds the swing arm. The shims are so rusted that im having a very hard time getting them out. Have soaked everything with PB blaster last night. Have not tried to drive the bolt out yet. Have not tried to remove shock/strut mount for fear of damaging the threads. However when I tried to remove the bolt/cam adjuster from the other end i snapped the nut end off and the bolt end is still froze. Have soaked all of these parts with PB-blaster and trierd air impack, 30" breaker bar and only cracked my 3/4" craftsman socket. Have been working on it this morning and did get the shims on the outside of arm out but not the inside shims. I can move them up & down but just wont pry out.
 
You're lucky that you have slotted shims, not "double hole" shims. The double "holer's" were used up to early 1970, if I recall correctly. With that style shim, the bolt goes through the shim. NOT a lot of fun to get those out.

Sounds like you have a lot of rust/corrosion on your car. There "ain't" no easy to get this stuff off/out. Soak....heat, etc.

I would take the shock off so that at least then you can push/pull the T arm up and down. Might make getting the shims out easier.

The lower shock mounts can be a real PIA. If you break one, they're available in repro. Be careful you don't break the spindle support that the shock mount goes through. That can be replaced if you're taking the T arm off, but it's an expensive little dude. Chuck
 
Forget the soaking, SawZaw, not even worth the effort to try to get out, if the bolts don't come off easy, they need replaced. Stainless bolt and shim kits are cheap and everywhere, it takes 5 min. to cut a bolt, look how much farther ahead you would be if you just cut them in the first place. I cut on both sides of the trailing arm bushing, inside the pocket of the frame. Try to document where and how many shims are in what places before cutting, and after for replacement of new shims. Don't forget to take it to the shop when done for proper alignment

Ron
 
Thanks for the help,I just now got the one side off . I was able to drive the bolt out but still can not get the strut loose at either end. Going to get a couple of nuts & try to weld to the end of an old air chisel bit and see if that will get the strut/shock mount out. Just hate to hammer on it for fear of damage to the threads.
 
The removal tool is much cheaper than having to replace both shock mounts.
If you don't have the shock mount removal tool there is a good chance you'll bugger up the threads and ruin the shock mount. Try plenty of PB blaster and heat.
If you don't have the removal tool, try getting a nut the same size as the shock mount nut (that's what I did.) and pound on the nut with a 2 or 3 pound maul. Hopefully you won't mess up the threads on the mount.
 
our story matches what I did this weekend. I have both off and I will tell you what I had to do. Maybe it will help.
1)after the strut adjust nut broke off Cut the strut off the car. I used a cut off saw. I tried to push the adjuster bolt out with a gear puller but it was not succesfull. It took 5 to 10 minutes to cut the bushing off. Had to do this on both sides. I left the strut attached to the T-Arm and removed it after the arm was out of the car. The gear puller was successful here.
2)You have to get the shims out of the hole. The ones on the same side as the nut seemed to come out after a little pounding. you will see the bolt you need to cut. The other side of the arm (inboard to the car) the shims were much more dificult to get out. I had to saw on the pile of shim rust to get a little space to get some movment. Once the glob of shims started to move I was able to pry them out. At that point it is easy again saw the bolt on the other side and the arm comes out.
 
just did same job.

inner bolts to xmember on re cover, use balljoint press and lots of penetrating oil and large impact gun to loosen/pushout bolts, replace ALL parts & use lots of anitsieze on reassembly. note position of cams prior to removal for rough adjustment of camber on reassembly.

shock mounts, very difficult to remove, have tried all kinds of pullers etc, heat and pressure all that seem to work, will ruin bushings in arm, possible also ruin shockmounts, when reassembling use lots of antisieze.

front pivot of t-arm, if you measure distance of arm to sides of "pocket" prior to sawing bolts will give approximation of position for rough tow in adjustment (dont have to count shims), reassemble w/stailless and antisieze, use one of the measurements taken (doesnt matter which) and add shims to the opposite side till can add no more, may require slight tapping for last shim). tighten all.

while in there probable should also check brake fittings/lines are impossible to get to w/assembled.

alignment should be close enough to drive to alignment shop (if not too far and too fast).

although this is a vast pain to do, hope it helps.
 
cwerve74; everything sound identical to what im going thru right now. Just got the right side out tonight same problems as you had . Was able to drive the right side shims and bolts out ut the left side looks like Ill have to cut. Did you just use a metal blade in a sawsall?? Like you said can't get left side inner shims to budge at all .
 
Just reading your adventure, and thought I would give you my experienced option. I have done a lot of these and in most cases have had to replace the trailing arm. Mostly because the condition of the one removed did not warrant repairing it, dents, rust, or cracking, and bad welds. Replacing the bushings is an adventure all to it self with most of the kits not fitting right or damage to the trailing arm when replacing them. If you consider the price of the tool and the kit it make them a deal.
I would and most of the time do replace the arm, they run about $200 each but that seems cheep after you have tried to repair one, and they are much easer to set up.
 
john1977


The sawsall blade was a medal blade with 18 teeth per inch. The key was it needs to be at least 6 inches long. I used a 12 inch blade and broke off about 1 1/2 inches when it got dull on the end. It lost the cutting edge quickly. It took about 3 uses of the 12 inch blade so it was about 7 inches long when I was done.

I still had to get the shims out before I could get the second cut on the bolt. So I cut between the bushing and the first shim and after I got about 1 inch in I used a long drift to beat on the shims and with that cut in there it gave enough movment for the stack to free up and be pryed out by hooking the drift on the hole in the shim.

This is the first one I have done and I will have to agree with Glassman. Once out I am not sure the T-arm is rebuildable. I am letting the professional rebuilder make that decision. Good luck
 
Same here, Im sending mine to corvette parts online in Florida. That is if I ever get the left one out !!! I must need a smaller sawsall because I can't seem to find any kind of position that I can get the saw in to make the cuts.
 

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