Rear Wheel Bearings (parts needed?)

[78SilvAnniv]

I believe the driver side rear wheel bearing needs replacing, and would like to replace both sides at the same time. I have called around and found parts/labor prices to be in the neighborhood of around $600-$700 (highest at nearly $1k!) to do both sides.

I have a mechanic friend who owes a favor and said he'd do the job for us for cost of parts only. His labor would repay the debt owed. He has the experience, tools and equipment to do the job correctly.

What parts will I need to purchase?

Just a box of bearings? U-joints? Surely there must be more to it than that!? (or is the costly nature of the job really tied up in the labor?) Don't the brakes have to have something done at the same time, also?
Heidi

ps, I'd like to know if this job can be done without removing the trailing arms or if they must come off. (just replaced bushings)

 

[Dave L.]

http://www.ikerds.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=230-121
http://www.ikerds.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=230-221

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Thanks Dave, that just seems too simple! Bearings and shims...seems the cost is tied up in labor after all!
Heidi

 

[paintdaddy]

Heidi I dont know for sure but I think there is a special tool required to do the rears.I usually send the trailing arm assembly off and have it done.From what I hear the part is cheap but the tool is not worth it unless you are going to do alot of them.

 

[Dave L.]

Here are the tools needed
http://www.madvet.com/-/shop?frame=1.1402http://www.ikerds.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=230-221
http://www.madvet.com/-/shop?frame=1.1397
http://www.madvet.com/-/shop?frame=1.1401

 

[ON 7TH]

i thought my rt rear bearing was goen bad,but it turned out to be a bad u joint & 1 of the pucks in the caliper was hanging up.but i do my own work so i save on labor.replaced the bad joint,had to heat that to get it out,2 ss rebuilt calipers,new steel lines, rubber hoses,brake pads etc was under 300.

 

[78SilvAnniv]

We do most of our own work too, but Kenny doesn't have the specialty tools to do rear wheel bearings. Funds are tight right now, we recently had three animal medical emergencies right on top of each other that depleted the set-aside monies and I won't dip into savings for anything less than "critical" (human).

I'll have him check it again this weekend so we know for certain if it is the rear wheel bearings (which are due...) or the u-joints (which are due, too...). Brakes are another big-ticket item I want to replace, including rotors, as I don't think mine have enough material to turn anymore. That may have to wait, and I'll have to back off the threshold braking.

Thank you everyone for your replies and for the links.
Heidi

 

[Dave L.]

Heidi - For anyone with the tools and know how this is a fairly easy job. One thing I would suggest is to use Timken bearings and try to stay clear of the 'Taiwan' bearings. I had bought a bearing kit from a major Corvette vendor and they were not American made bearings...I sent them back and spent a little extra for some AC/Delco (Timken) bearings. Take Care...

 

[Ol Blue]

Heidi
I've purchased timken wheel bearings at my local Autozone. The spindle knocker that screws on the end of the spindle is the approach that I've used to knock the spindle out. DON'T hammer on the end of the spindle!! If you purchase the setup tool for your mechanic and use the directions listed below, he should be able to set your new bearings up properly.
http://www.montygwilliams.com/rearbearings.html

Ol Blue

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Dave L, I think I read your post about the taiwan/timken bearings when I did a search on the subject.
Blue, thanks for the link. It had GREAT pics and explanations!
Heidi

 

[Stingray6974]

Heidi,
I carry all the parts you could need for rebuilding.

Mike

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Thank you Mike. We'll be seeing our mechanic friend on Monday.
Heidi

 

[GTR1999]

Usually when rebuilding the trailing arms, I go through the whole arm. Disassemble the whole the arm, clean and check the arm for rust and reweld if needed. New arms can be had for about $120 or even less if you have access to a good supplier.
Replace the front bushing, I only use rubber. Replace the Parking Brake with SS parts and steel shoes. Replace the bearings and set the end-play to .0015-.002" max. This where you really have to know what you're doing, if you set up the end-play over .003" you'll have brake problems.
I see you're also thinking of replacing the rotors in the future. Be aware that unless they are warped or just undersize you're better off leaving them alone. If you turn or replace them you must check the runout and get it under .002". I used new USA rotors and had .010" runout in them that I had to fix.

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Very good advice about the rotors, thanks. I had a brake shop tell me there wasn't enough material to turn them...this is why I felt they needed replacing. Perhaps I should not trust the brake shop and get an uninterested second opinion. The brakes have given me no trouble at all.
Heidi

 

[GTR1999]

Did they check them with a micrometer? Are the rivits still in the rear rotors,if so they haven't been off the car. The thickness of rotors new is 1.250 and disgard is 1.215" that only leaves .035 to machine and you're tlaking 2 sides so cut that in half. See what your brake shop says when you tell them that info. You might start to hear all kinds of stories. If you have basic hand tools and want to do the work you can fix your brakes better then any shop will. Let me know if you have any questions.

Be very sure about the rear bearings too.

 

[Ol Blue]

Heidi

While I had the spindles out of my daughter's car, I had them put on a lathe and checked the runout. All it took was just a very slight trim to get them true. Of course you need to have the lug bolts out. Probably doesn't hurt to get new ones anyway.
Ol Blue

 

[mrvette]

I have found the easy way to pull the outer bearing is to get the keeper/bearings off it, and take a dremel tool to the inner race, cutting it pretty much apart...carefully....then hit with cold steel chisel and hammer to split it, then it slides off easy.....

Turtlevette recommends slip fitting the inner bearing race to make assy dis assy easy....play with the shims kits, then bolt it all down per normal....

GENE

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Don't buy the tools from a big vendors, instead look up bid-quest on ebay, he has all the tools needed at very good prices...and his tools are top notch quality (I have most of them)

Slip fitting is not something you want to do if you are not experienced in setting up proper bearing preload and having a feel for what is slip fitted (slight interference fit) and a loose bearing. The shims only come in certain sizes, you need to sand them down on emery paper to get @ 0.0001" play (or a little more but I like mine very tight)

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Very good advice about the rotors, thanks. I had a brake shop tell me there wasn't enough material to turn them...this is why I felt they needed replacing. Perhaps I should not trust the brake shop and get an uninterested second opinion. The brakes have given me no trouble at all.
Heidi

I've never seen a 'regular' brake shop yet that has even half a clue on how to maintain C2-C3 Corvette disk brakes.

Disregard any advice they give about routine turning of rotors, that's just a money grab for the shop.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

There's a maximum to how much you can turn them, it's cast into the rotor on the inside (if yout ake it off there's a " ridge" that's the parking brake drum on the rear...the numbers are in there) and no machine shop/brake shop will turn them below that amount for liability. These numbers aren't there for nothing or to make money, they're there to insure the rotor is of sufficient thickness so it doesn't warp, crack and certainly doesn't have too little mass to store heat energy and cause an overheating rotor/caliper (seals blowing, fluid boiling) resulting in no brakes at all.