69MyWay
Well-known member
NICE!!!!!!!!!
Rebirth of a Corvette
- Thread starter impala
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
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- 229
- Location
- Binghamton, NY
- Corvette
- 1981Dark Blue Metallic & 2004 conv. magnetic red
I enjoyed looking at the pictures and hope to have my repainted next year.
Was this your first undertaking with the body work and painting?
I have checked a few body shops and the costs vary, maybe the expensive ones just don't want to do Vettes.
Very nice job, thanks for sharing them.
Chuck
Was this your first undertaking with the body work and painting?
I have checked a few body shops and the costs vary, maybe the expensive ones just don't want to do Vettes.
Very nice job, thanks for sharing them.
Chuck
- Thread starter
- #23
Hello Chockey,
I've never done a Corvette repaint before so asked my Brother-in-law to help. He's been painting Corvettes since the early 60's as a hobby. He came over a couple of nights and sprayed the paint for me.With his help and my elbow grease the whole paint job including sandpaper, tape and paint components cost around $450. I even saved a few bucks by stopping at a local Body Shop and asking them if they'd mind giving me a small vial of Anti-Fisheye Agent.
As long as there's interest in pictures I'll attach a picture of my last project. It was a 1963 Impala Super Sport. It was in pieces in a local barn when I bought it.
Eugene
I've never done a Corvette repaint before so asked my Brother-in-law to help. He's been painting Corvettes since the early 60's as a hobby. He came over a couple of nights and sprayed the paint for me.With his help and my elbow grease the whole paint job including sandpaper, tape and paint components cost around $450. I even saved a few bucks by stopping at a local Body Shop and asking them if they'd mind giving me a small vial of Anti-Fisheye Agent.
As long as there's interest in pictures I'll attach a picture of my last project. It was a 1963 Impala Super Sport. It was in pieces in a local barn when I bought it.
Eugene
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
- Messages
- 287
- Location
- Slippery Rock, PA
- Corvette
- 96 GS #145, Blk Int; 85 Red Coupe
Nice job! I like seeing someone doing their own work. My paint is passable, but has chips, peels, and fading. So a job like this is in my future. Good tip about leaving the nose and tail on, I was wondering about that myself. Thanks.
I
intex99
Guest
Looks great Impala!Wish I had that kinda room in my garage!I have to move mommas car out just to work on my 80 and have my 81 over at a buddies house as live in townhouse no extra parking! I got my 80 with new paint in Dec but the guy who painted it did amat job and alot of fisheye.The 81 is getting prof job now and will see how good they do it and then have 80 redone this fall.
Keep up the good work!!!
Keep up the good work!!!
- Thread starter
- #26
intex,
I'm trying to get everything done so the Corvette can go back onto it's side of the garage. Time is running out up here and my wife has a policy that if her car has to sit in the drive overnight I have to scrape the frost/snow/ice off it before I leave for work. That means I have around two, maybe three weeks before the hard frost comes and stays until March.
Eugene
I'm trying to get everything done so the Corvette can go back onto it's side of the garage. Time is running out up here and my wife has a policy that if her car has to sit in the drive overnight I have to scrape the frost/snow/ice off it before I leave for work. That means I have around two, maybe three weeks before the hard frost comes and stays until March.
Eugene
I
intex99
Guest
Well looks like you'll get her done in time!My problem here is I'm waiting for it to cool down some as still hotter then heck even when the sun goes down.
Once I get going though I forget about it and drink gallons of gatoraide! Nice thing here is I can drive her 12 months a year so actually looking forward to cooler weather!
Looks great though and I'm sure its a great felling to know you did it yourself !!
If I pull an all nighter have to clean the dew off her windows though!!
Tim
Once I get going though I forget about it and drink gallons of gatoraide! Nice thing here is I can drive her 12 months a year so actually looking forward to cooler weather!
Looks great though and I'm sure its a great felling to know you did it yourself !!
If I pull an all nighter have to clean the dew off her windows though!!
Tim
- Moderator
- #28
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
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- 4,315
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
- Corvette
- ZZ4, 700R4, Steeroids rack & pinion, VB&P Brakes
Nice job...but why choke the power from engine leaving on all the intake equipment??? I would think you are losing serious power. Why get the engine only to restrict it??? Open it up!!
- Thread starter
- #29
Evolution1980,
Your question is one I've asked myself many times over the last few months. Right now I don't know what to do. What I did modify was pull the old restrictive exhaust system and replace it with the exhaust system from a 1982 with a free flowing converter.
Depending how things go I might run a Dyno comparison next spring between my current quasi-stock setup and then removing some of the polution equipment. At $80 a pull I don't know if I'm all that curious.
Living near Milwaukee we have strict emission testing, both visual and sniffer, for cars under 20 years old. Because I have a 22 year old car I can license it as a Hobbist or Collector car. The current rules for both classifications is pay a one time license fee of $140 (the plates are mine for life), have the car visually examined by a State Patrol Officer and then pass one last emission sniffer and visual test. After that the car becomes exempt from future emission testing for as long as I own it. Because the car has to go through one more emission test I have to run all the polution equipment at least for awhile.
All that being said I'm not sure what kind of performance increase I'd actually realize. The air pump system just provides additional air to increase combustion of unfired fuel in the exhaust and I can't see where that would hinder performance. There is some parasitic loss due to running the air pump off the crank but that shouldn't amount to more than a few HP.
The reason the 1982 has larger exhaust manifold dumps, 2 1/2" versus the 1981 2", and a dramatically increased front and rear exhaust pipe diameter was to increase the flow and provide hotter exhaust to the converter to meet tighter emission standards. Where the 1982 Front and rear Y-pipes converge into a single pipe it's oval shaped which I'd guess to be 3" to 3 1/2" in diamter if they were round. With the current setup the engine should be breathing pretty good.
Sorry for being long wided but I've spent a whole lot of time thinking about what to do not to mention spending over $550 on the current exhaust system. If anyone has any experience with emission versus no emission HP comparisons I'd love to get feedback.
BTW - I keep looking at your tribute paint scheme and have considered doing something similar. Remember imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Eugene
Your question is one I've asked myself many times over the last few months. Right now I don't know what to do. What I did modify was pull the old restrictive exhaust system and replace it with the exhaust system from a 1982 with a free flowing converter.
Depending how things go I might run a Dyno comparison next spring between my current quasi-stock setup and then removing some of the polution equipment. At $80 a pull I don't know if I'm all that curious.
Living near Milwaukee we have strict emission testing, both visual and sniffer, for cars under 20 years old. Because I have a 22 year old car I can license it as a Hobbist or Collector car. The current rules for both classifications is pay a one time license fee of $140 (the plates are mine for life), have the car visually examined by a State Patrol Officer and then pass one last emission sniffer and visual test. After that the car becomes exempt from future emission testing for as long as I own it. Because the car has to go through one more emission test I have to run all the polution equipment at least for awhile.
All that being said I'm not sure what kind of performance increase I'd actually realize. The air pump system just provides additional air to increase combustion of unfired fuel in the exhaust and I can't see where that would hinder performance. There is some parasitic loss due to running the air pump off the crank but that shouldn't amount to more than a few HP.
The reason the 1982 has larger exhaust manifold dumps, 2 1/2" versus the 1981 2", and a dramatically increased front and rear exhaust pipe diameter was to increase the flow and provide hotter exhaust to the converter to meet tighter emission standards. Where the 1982 Front and rear Y-pipes converge into a single pipe it's oval shaped which I'd guess to be 3" to 3 1/2" in diamter if they were round. With the current setup the engine should be breathing pretty good.
Sorry for being long wided but I've spent a whole lot of time thinking about what to do not to mention spending over $550 on the current exhaust system. If anyone has any experience with emission versus no emission HP comparisons I'd love to get feedback.
BTW - I keep looking at your tribute paint scheme and have considered doing something similar. Remember imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Eugene
mytoy
Well-known member
great job
looks as if you did a great job on the paint. Did you use clear base coat , also did you have alot of over spray in your garage? I almost got our 68 Mustang ready for paint, alittle concern about the over spray
looks as if you did a great job on the paint. Did you use clear base coat , also did you have alot of over spray in your garage? I almost got our 68 Mustang ready for paint, alittle concern about the over spray
- Thread starter
- #31
Hello mytoy,
We used PPG Delstar DAR Acrylic Enamal at a 8:6:1 ratio in an old Binks bottom cup gun at 30psi. There wasn't much overspray at all. My garage door faces east and it was a calm day with a slight breeze from the west so we left it open. I also opened the side garage windows and ran a box fan to help keep the fumes down, still ended up feeling like it was a long night of Absolutes and tonic. Good luck on your paint job.
Eugene
We used PPG Delstar DAR Acrylic Enamal at a 8:6:1 ratio in an old Binks bottom cup gun at 30psi. There wasn't much overspray at all. My garage door faces east and it was a calm day with a slight breeze from the west so we left it open. I also opened the side garage windows and ran a box fan to help keep the fumes down, still ended up feeling like it was a long night of Absolutes and tonic. Good luck on your paint job.
Eugene
- Moderator
- #32
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
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- 4,315
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
- Corvette
- ZZ4, 700R4, Steeroids rack & pinion, VB&P Brakes
impala said:
Everything here in Ohio is the same except for the visual inspection part. We don't have any visual inspections. But, you can still dothe same thing I did: Take it up to be checked out in it's stock setup, then drive it home and uwrap that beautiful present you have under your hood!
When I took my car up to get e-checked, I hung the stock exhaust from the hangers, and then 2 bolts at diagonal corners to hold it up to the cat (not even sealed :L ). I drove it into their checkpoint, they put the sniffer in the mufflers, checked my gas cap, then sent me on my way with a clean bill of health! As soon as I got home, ALL the emissions stuff came off.
I'll tell ya what!!! There was a very noticeable performance increase noticed on the butt-dyno. Gotta figure those numbers would be even higher on a real dyno! These engines love to breath freely... I say you should do it now before winter sets in. Then you can take your time setting up a new intake and exhaust setup, and be ready rock 'n roll come springtime!
Pegasys
Well-known member
Personal question??
What did the whole project cost you, approximately?
Amazing job by the way!
Mike
What did the whole project cost you, approximately?
Amazing job by the way!
Mike
- Thread starter
- #34
Hello Pegasys,
To date I've spent approxiamely $11,300.
$6,300: 82,000 mile Car in 1995. Asking $9,000/cash talks!
$3,200: GM Performance 330HP 350 Crate Engine delivered
$450: TH350 - nonlockup Street/Strip delivered
$90: TCI Sizzler Torque Converter
$150: High Torque Mini Starter
$550: 1982 Exhaust System-Manifolds/highflow convertor/Y-pipes
$450: Paint/tape/sandpaper
$80: Hi-rise Hood
$22: Transmission cooling lines from Ebay
$25 New Fuel Pump from Ebay
I sold the Holly 650 that came on the crate engine on Ebay and used the $200 to have the original Q-jet reworked so I consider that a wash.
Eugene
To date I've spent approxiamely $11,300.
$6,300: 82,000 mile Car in 1995. Asking $9,000/cash talks!
$3,200: GM Performance 330HP 350 Crate Engine delivered
$450: TH350 - nonlockup Street/Strip delivered
$90: TCI Sizzler Torque Converter
$150: High Torque Mini Starter
$550: 1982 Exhaust System-Manifolds/highflow convertor/Y-pipes
$450: Paint/tape/sandpaper
$80: Hi-rise Hood
$22: Transmission cooling lines from Ebay
$25 New Fuel Pump from Ebay
I sold the Holly 650 that came on the crate engine on Ebay and used the $200 to have the original Q-jet reworked so I consider that a wash.
Eugene
- Thread starter
- #35
Evolution 1980,
I'm feeling that I should go with a Ecklers or MidAmerica side exhaust with fiberglas covers or perhaps a true dual exhaust system based on your buttdyno reading.
Before anymore is spent on exhaust I need to determine the rear gearing. I can't find the stamped code on the carrier that should tell me. I've tracked the original owner and he didn't have a clue. It would be nice to have the 3.70 gear set but realistically it's probably the 2.73 - the car was a very basic, no frills car except for the rear window defroster.
Eugene
I'm feeling that I should go with a Ecklers or MidAmerica side exhaust with fiberglas covers or perhaps a true dual exhaust system based on your buttdyno reading.
Before anymore is spent on exhaust I need to determine the rear gearing. I can't find the stamped code on the carrier that should tell me. I've tracked the original owner and he didn't have a clue. It would be nice to have the 3.70 gear set but realistically it's probably the 2.73 - the car was a very basic, no frills car except for the rear window defroster.
Eugene
mmvette80
Well-known member
You most likely have the stock 3.08's
- Moderator
- #37
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
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- 4,315
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
- Corvette
- ZZ4, 700R4, Steeroids rack & pinion, VB&P Brakes
If you are going to get headers to straight back exhaust, do yourself a favor and spend a bit more and get the powder coated. Eventually, you'll get tired of looking at the ratty flat-black with minor surface rust. You can see pics of my setup by going to http://photos.yahoo.com/thethingsido. Then click on the "Vette - Headers" folders
Ditto what MMvette80 said. The 3.08 rear end was all that was available in 1980.
Ditto what MMvette80 said. The 3.08 rear end was all that was available in 1980.
C
cmegga
Guest
IMPALA
The car looks great. I cant beleive you go the paint done for soo little. Im getting ready to spend about 4000 to get the same result. I wish I had any idea how to paint.
If you dont mind me asking what color is that? ?I know you said it was PPG paint , but what shade of blue ?? It looks like a nice metalic.
The car looks great. I cant beleive you go the paint done for soo little. Im getting ready to spend about 4000 to get the same result. I wish I had any idea how to paint.
If you dont mind me asking what color is that? ?I know you said it was PPG paint , but what shade of blue ?? It looks like a nice metalic.
- Thread starter
- #39
cmegga,
The color is the original Blue Metallic. I'm fortunate in that I work fairly close to Milwaukee Paint Products. They mixed the paint to the trim tag code and I can't see any varience from the original color. They'll even put it in spray cans for you for small touch ups.
The inexpensive part of the paint job is the materials. The reason paint jobs cost $4,000 is the amount of hand labor involved, paying the overhead for a shop's equipment, something called SG&A (the cost of sales, general expenses and administration costs) and any profit margin.
While far from perfect my paint job was inexpensive because my labor is free and all my brother-in-law's help costs me is beer.
Good luck on your paint job.
Eugene
The color is the original Blue Metallic. I'm fortunate in that I work fairly close to Milwaukee Paint Products. They mixed the paint to the trim tag code and I can't see any varience from the original color. They'll even put it in spray cans for you for small touch ups.
The inexpensive part of the paint job is the materials. The reason paint jobs cost $4,000 is the amount of hand labor involved, paying the overhead for a shop's equipment, something called SG&A (the cost of sales, general expenses and administration costs) and any profit margin.
While far from perfect my paint job was inexpensive because my labor is free and all my brother-in-law's help costs me is beer.
Good luck on your paint job.
Eugene
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