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Help! Repairing rear trailing arms

  • Thread starter Thread starter Billypoot
  • Start date Start date
B

Billypoot

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Does anyone have a step-by-step instructions on removing the rear trailing arms on a 1976 Corvette. The bolts are seized along with the shims. I have never attempted this before but I am willing to try. Pictures would be a great help. Thanks anyone
 
I have a thread on another forum showing how to correctly rebuild them. If you're planning on doing that or planning on buying arms you may want to read it. PM me for the link.
To remove you may need to sawzall them out. Not a fun job but very common.
 
I was going to give it a try to get them removed. My email is wasaks@fuse.net. I was going to take them to a shop to have them rebuilt. Thanks


I have a thread on another forum showing how to correctly rebuild them. If you're planning on doing that or planning on buying arms you may want to read it. PM me for the link.
To remove you may need to sawzall them out. Not a fun job but very common.
 
Would you mind emailing this link to me as well. I'll be tackling this job myself in the spring. rabooey@hotmail.com

Thanks

Robert


I have a thread on another forum showing how to correctly rebuild them. If you're planning on doing that or planning on buying arms you may want to read it. PM me for the link.
To remove you may need to sawzall them out. Not a fun job but very common.
 
I rebuilt my front and rear suspension 2 years ago on my '68. When I got to the trailing arms, I had the same problem. I took a saws-all to them and bought new hardware to replace the old.
 
I'd be interested in your recommendation on trailing arm rebuild. Can you just post the link or is it someone you dont want to share over the web??
thanks
 
Right rear wheel grabs after driving

I have a 74 vette that I have been restoring. Years back I would have a
chirping noise coming from the right rear wheel after I drove the car fot a while. The car would also grab in the right rear wheel but just intermitently. Now 20+ years later I drove the car last fall about 30 miles and drove fine until I tried backing into a friends driveway. The car was actually popping in the right rear. Wheel bearings? U-Joints? I have taken
the half shafts out and the wheel bearing assemblies to replace them. Could the problem be rear the rear differential? Any help would be most appreciated!
 
Well I would look at both and see. With the car securely jacked up,disconnect the spring bolt, remove the 1/2 shaft. Mark your camber position first so you don't loose your alignement,then crank it out so you can remove the shaft. Keep the shaft level. I like to move the caliper up off the rotor. Now like this you have isolated the bearings, the only thing moving are the bearings. If the rotate smooth without endplay or a lot of runout then they're probably ok. If you feel binding,roughness, etc then you should replace the bearings and if you do use quality parts,no cheap kits,imported parts etc.
U-joints should be tight, look for play and rust dust at the caps. Maybe even a cracked joint.

I addressed a similar question on the diff binding as well. Most common would be backed out RG bolts that shear off.
 
Gary:
Thanks for the information!
Could a problem in the rear differential make a noise at the right rear wheel?
When I had the car in neutral and turned the half shafts I get a slight click noise
coming from the differential case. Is this common? The car would run great on the
road but give a jerk in the right rear wheel when I would slow to a stop. I will look
at my U-joints tonight and check the bearings as you suggested.
Thanks
 
That is not normal, Clicking from the diff can be spiders, also check the endplay to be sure the yokes are not worn down and grinding into the housing. This must be addressed ASAP.
 
Gary:
When I pulled the half shafts I get about 1/16" play at the differential housing.
I get about 5 slight clicks per revolution of the half shafts.
Thanks
 
So you're getting about 060 endplay in the yokes. That may be worn yokes but most likely a combination of posi setup and yoke wear. Me, I would look more into that. I don't think that is your main issue, the clicks coming from the shaft probably are joints.
Take a look at my thread on shafts, it should help you out.

DigitalCorvettes.com - 1/2 Shaft U-Joint install
 
Gary:
I checked the U-Joints on the removed 1/2 shafts last night and the driver side moved
freely, however when I tried the passenger side the U-Joints on the mounting flange
that mounts to the spindle could hardly be moved with two hands. Could be the problem!
I will let you know when I remove the old U-Joints.
Thank you!
 
I burn out the old joints but be sure to check the flanges, they bend easy and most that are out there are bent from previous installs. If you use the recommended Spicer joints there can be no bend in the flange or the clips won't fit.
 

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