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Replacing wheel bearing hub assembly

  • Thread starter Thread starter BgBlock69
  • Start date Start date
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BgBlock69

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Has any one removed and replaced rear wheel bearing hub assembly on a C-4. If so, any tips? This will be my first attempt.

Any help would be apreciated
 
rear whl bearing

Try this thread. If it doesn't show up correctly, go to search above and type 'c4 rear wheel bearing' It's the 4th or 5th thread down.
Forums » 1984 - 1996 Corvettes » C4 Technical Discussion » C4 Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly swap
 
If necessary I can supply detailed description as I did all four of mine last year. I will tell you ahead of time the rears are a bear to replace. Make sure you replace both at same time...will save you some grief as well as go to parts store and get a can of PB Blaster and coat the nut on the wheel hub as it will be slightly rusted and it is put on at around 160 ft. lbs. of torque..
Let me know if you want the detail with some time saving short cuts...
 
I did it last year and I'm practically an idiot. Here are some tips:

You'll need a 36mm socket with a length of pipe over the ratchet handle to get the leverage to break the wheel nut. Make sure you put the little washer back in correctly after assembly, I believe the curved side points outward. You'll need to support both sides of the rear end with jackstands so you can rotate the axle for access to the three torx bolts. The torx bolts are deep inside the hub, it goes way back like a tooth, you need a long skinny extension to reach them, but they are all reachable by rotating the axle to gain access to each one. Getting the torx bolts back in again is a real pain, basically you either sit there for eight hours poking away with the bolt while hoping that the hub stays together long enough to maintain the hole's integrity or you tape the hub together like I did and get underneath your car to see what you're doing. MAKE SURE YOUR JACKSTANDS ARE SECURE BEFORE GETTING UNDER YOUR CAR.

It's not really that difficult, but it can be frustrating. Good luck.
 
Torque

The breaker blaster is really good. I like CRC (can't remember the specific #) too. Let it soak a couple of days, relubing every day.
I have a 6' Woods mower that has 180 ft-lb left hand nuts on the blades. I use a 'breaker bar' with a five foot length of 2" pipe on the handle to break the nuts loose. Might work on a Corvette rear spindle nut. Use a good 20W machine oil and a suitable range torque wrench when reapplying the nut. Otherwise the torque will not be correct. If you ever have to do the job again (hope not), this will make the break-loose a lot more reasonable.
 
I just did mine this weekend, and it was not difficult just takes a little time ( about an hour per side) I agree with the earlier post that the torx bit is a pain, especially the top one. I found that by poping the rear tie-rod off, I could get a much better turn on the wrench.
 

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