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ride control question

R

ron

Guest
I am the proud owner of a 1993 convertible and discovered this site by pure accident. What a wealth of iformation! I am really impressed! My question relates to the ride control function. Is there some indication that it is operating correctly. I don't sense much difference by rotating the "dial" from the various positions, ie; tour to sport, etc. I had the local dealership service the vette last week and asked him to check for proper operation, and he informed me that he did not read any codes relative to the improper operation of the ride system, so he assumed it was o.k.
Any information relative to this question would be greatly appreciated. It is great to finally be owning a Corvette after 40 years of "lusting".
 

chuck

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Joined
Feb 7, 2001
Messages
193
Location
Tallmadge,Ohio
Corvette
1977 Dark Red Coupe/Buckskin 04 Spiral Gray/Gray
Welcome to the CAC Ron.If you look at the top right of page you will see Technical.Click on it and you will find an article on the FX3 system.It was written by Hib Halverson he is very good on C4s and is a member of CAC. Chuck
 

Hib Halverson

Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
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13,453
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CenCoast CA
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71 04 12 19
Thanks for the kind words, Chuck.

A crude test of selective ride control (SRC) is to drive at highway speeds on surface with tar strips, ripples or other high-frequency input. Run the selector switch from tour to perf and back. You ought to feel a difference in harshness.

If you don't, it's possible the system is not working.

Unfortunately, a warranty fix used by some unscrupulous dealers was to disconnect the SRC harness at the controller and remove the service ride control light bulb.

When you turn on the key, the service ride control light should come on and go out. If it does not do that, there most likely is a problem somewhere.

Also, if you do three key-ups without moving the vehicle, the service ride light will come on and stay on.
 

rdgfx3

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Joined
Jul 25, 2001
Messages
202
Location
Rowlett,TX.
Corvette
2008 Silver Coupe
Another way to check F/X 3 needs two people.One person in the Vette,the other at the shock to be checked.Turn the SRC switch without the ignition on.Then turn the ignition on,but don't start it.Your helper should easily hear the actuator cycling.This is an easy way to find out if your actuator is working.Repeat for the other three wheels.
 

Joe 90 Vette

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Feb 20, 2003
Messages
7
Location
CT
Joe here, thanks, that is just what I am going to do, I have no ride problems but light is on for service. I guess I will hear no noise at the bad shock?

Thanks,
 

KOPBET

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Jan 31, 2003
Messages
1,355
Location
Tulsey Town
Corvette
'73 Silver LS4 4 speed
Joe 90 Vette said:
Joe here, thanks, that is just what I am going to do, I have no ride problems but light is on for service. I guess I will hear no noise at the bad shock?

Thanks,
I don't want to hijack this thread so you may want to start a new one regarding your issue. You need to read the diagnostic trouble codes from the CCM so you can find out what is setting the SRC lamp. We can discuss in detail if you post a new thread. The trouble is still current, else the lamp would have gone out by now.
 

c4cruiser

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Feb 22, 2002
Messages
971
Location
Lacey, WA USA
Corvette
87 Gold Z52 Coupe 02 EB Z51 Supercharged Coupe
One other thing about the FX3 Selective Ride Control is that the shock valving is determined in part by vehicle speed. Cruising around at a fairly slow speed (city driving) and moving the console switch may not cause you to notice a big difference in how the shocks work. Hib's suggestion on finding expansion strips especially on concrete roads is a great way to find out for sure. At 70, I can not only tell the difference by feeling the thumps, there's also a change in road noise.

Shock stiffness in the Tour setting at 70MPH is actually stiffer than the Performance setting at 25!

If the dealer checked for codes using the proper procedures with a Tech-1 (needs the 88-92 brake cartridge) and did not find any, you should be OK. Hopefully, the tech knew enough that you cannot check codes when the car is moving! Diagnostic error codes are strored as history codes and disconnecting the battery should not clear them. There is a procedure to clear codes
 
D

drags1998

Guest
Hey Ron welcome to CAC, if the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL lite is on & stays on after driving the car, I believe you have a problem. like someone said, do the two person thing. When you cycle the key the shock acc. will cycle Aprox. 1sec. after turning on the key!!!!! Check ALL connections & wiring (around rear suspention is where I found my problem) Good luck!!!!!!!! Paul
 

alan ream

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Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
82
Location
Simi Valley, CA.
Corvette
2004 Red Z06
Joe 90 Vette said:
Joe here, thanks, that is just what I am going to do, I have no ride problems but light is on for service. I guess I will hear no noise at the bad shock?

Thanks,
Not so. Even a bad actuator will sound like it's doing its job. You will need to pull the little clip at the bottom of the actuator. Then, look inside and you should see a little brown plastic gear. Conversly, the top of the shock will have a metal gear that you should be able to turn easily with your hand. One of mine went bad, but it sounded like it was cycling properly. Trouble was, when I lifted the actuator off, little bits of each gear fell out. Replaced the actuator and shock (both gears were broken) and the light went out immediately. Hope this helps, let me know.
 

Jeffvette

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Joined
Oct 5, 2001
Messages
442
Location
Battle Ground, WA
Damn, you guys make it sound so complicated.

First, don't worry about the actuators or the shocks first. Isolate the problem. Pull the codes. Insert a paperclip into the A-C ports of the ALDL, and turn the key to the run position. Count the flashes. If you feel you have to many codes, clear them and retrieve them again.

12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position


Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions

43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
 

alan ream

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
82
Location
Simi Valley, CA.
Corvette
2004 Red Z06
Jeffvette said:
Damn, you guys make it sound so complicated.

First, don't worry about the actuators or the shocks first. Isolate the problem. Pull the codes. Insert a paperclip into the A-C ports of the ALDL, and turn the key to the run position. Count the flashes. If you feel you have to many codes, clear them and retrieve them again.

12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position


Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions

43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
You're making it too difficult for yourself. Like I said, take one of the actuators off by unsnapping the little clip. Then, have someone turn on the key (but don't start) you will see the little brown gear inside turn one way and then the other. If the gear is intact then the actuator is ok. Now, turn the little gear on top of the shock. It should turn freely, but only about 75 degrees. If both are OK, then that assembly is alright. No need to position the gears when putting it back together. Just put it on top and put the clip back on. Once you start it, it centers itself. But make no mistake, one of your assemblies will probably have broken gears, that that my friend will set your light. Let me know.
 

Jeffvette

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Joined
Oct 5, 2001
Messages
442
Location
Battle Ground, WA
alan ream said:
You're making it too difficult for yourself. Like I said, take one of the actuators off by unsnapping the little clip.
Hope to god they don't waste the time checking the fronts when in fact it is actually the rears that are broken.

:eyerole

The codes are there for a reason, to eliminate wasted time and repair attempts. It takes all of 1 minute to plug in a paperclip and read the codes.
 

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