Ride Height Question re: Bushings

[Ludigdrums]

Hey all, I was wondering if anyone knew anything about changing the ride height of our Vettes using different body bushings?

My dilema is, I have finally lowered my car to it's proper ride height, and now it cannot be aligned because the camber is adjusted to the max already.

It would seem to me that lowering the body on the frame would be a better idea as opposed to lowering the suspension as to keep the same geometry.

Any thoughts?

- Jeremy

 

[SG4206]

You might pull a rear wheel off and look at the gap between the body and frame. This is a good average that will determine the amount it can be lowered. Sometimes crossmember clearance is tight.

 

[Stallion]

I don't understand why you would look at the distance between the body and the frame. Isn't it the suspension and wheel clearance over the wheel wells that you need to consider?

 

[Ludigdrums]

Well, in order for me to get the distance of the wheel wells to be where they should above the wheel, I had to cut 2 coils off the front springs and use the 10" lowering bolts in the rear. This seems a little extreme to me, and may explain why I can't get an alignment. So, I was thinking that if I raise the suspension back up a bit, yet lower the body on the frame so that the wheel well clearance remains the same...then I would be happy.

I just don't know if this is possible or a good thing to do anyway.

My '81 has a Duntov Turbo quarter panels which may for some reason cause excess clearance, but I don't know. I had pictures posted a while back when I was showing my new wheels.

What do you think?

 

[Stallion]

I don't see why you can't get alignment with the lowered suspension. There must be an explanation for that. I don't think lowering the body on the frame is the solution, seems like a band-aid to the problem.

 

[SG4206]

Stallion-
Lowering the body on the frame has been an old trick since 1963. I've had this done on SCCA road race and auto-X prepped cars over the years. This the best way to lower the C.G.
The problem Jeremy has , is common when lowering below stock height. Sometimes you have to go with offset A-arm bushings to bring the camber back into range.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

To measure ride hide correctly, you need to measure from the ground to specific points on the frame, not the body. You also need to compensate for different diameter tires if that's the case.

Until you get your frame to ground distance correct, (ie find out what when wrong with your suspension) you're just throwing Bubba fixes at it.

 

[Stallion]

Stallion-
Lowering the body on the frame has been an old trick since 1963. I've had this done on SCCA road race and auto-X prepped cars over the years. This the best way to lower the C.G.
The problem Jeremy has , is common when lowering below stock height. Sometimes you have to go with offset A-arm bushings to bring the camber back into range.

So you are saying that if you "conventionally" lower the Vette, then the wheels are going to tend to have a "butterfly" effect and therefore had wayyyy too much negative camber?

 

[SG4206]

It is my understanding you have the ride height you desire.

From strickly a handling standpoint ; the corner weights are more important than anything else ; no matter what the frame to ground or fender to wheel clearance measures. Unbalanced spring pressures on Vettes is common place. A day balancing front to rear and side to side is an experience. But this is another story to go fast in a vette.

Yes, as you lower the front , you will create more neg. camber , and can run out of adjustment room to set the camber and caster back where you want it. It all depends on the individual car. Did I answer your question?

 

[Stallion]

Yes, I think I understand. Thanks!