Rocker studs RR ????

[Mart]

I have one rocker stud that is lightly striped (not sure if it is the nut or the bolt)

Does anyone know if you can replace just one stud, and can it be done with the head on the car or does the head have to come off?

Need some options here guys, or can it be repaired?

The rocker in question keeps loosening and getting noisy.

Mart

 

[Vettelt193]

I am not sure if you can use loc-tite inside of an engine, but that may be an option

 

[Mart]

Yeah I've been wondering that myself, permatex also makes a thread repair compound but it says do not use on internal parts.

Anybody else know about the loctite?
Thanks

And with only a couple of weeks to Wasaga Beach Cruise.
Marts

 

[Vettelt193]

I know Detroit Diesel started using it on their engines, just don't know if they used them on anthing truly internal.

The difference between the engines that used loc-tite Vs. Didn't is nuts. the older engines used to drip oil from every bolt you could see.... After they used Loc-Tite, no more drips from anywhere. Amazing stuff!

 

[Mart]

I found this on a Technical data sheet for loctite.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
LOCTITE® Product 2440 is a fast curing single component
anaerobic threadlocking material, which is shear thinning and
develops medium strength. The product cures in the absence
of air when confined between close fitting metal surfaces.
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
Prevents loosening and leakage of threaded fasteners.
Product 2440 is particularly fast curing thereby reducing or
eliminating the need for primers. On most threaded metal
fasteners, it develops useable strength (100 in-lbs) within one
hour. Particularly suitable for applications such as pump or
motor mounting bolts, engine rocker nuts or equipment
housing screws, where disassembly with hand tools is required
for servicing.



Thanks for the info Vettelt193, you inspired me to start looking for this as a temporary fix.

And now for the long haul. (new screw in studs, stamped roller tips, hd pushrods, and maybe springs.)

 

[taegdh]

Depends! Do you feel lucky today?

Since Chevrolet uses screwed in studs, I would think you could do it in the car, but be certain not to loose anything down one of those passages to the nether world of the crank and other reciprocating machinery parts.

My question though is, is it the stud's threads which are slightly stripped, or is it the threads in the head? These are tension bearing with the connecting rod on one side, the valve on the other, and the movement of the rocker back and forth and up and down all the time the engine is running.

My old man used to always say, "If you're going to do something, do it right!" In this case I would say to remove the head(s) and fit in NEW studs, and maybe even new rockers. (You may have to go to larger bases on the stud, but, don't need to take a chance of it just popping out of the hole or breaking at the most in opportune time). If you do one, do them all!

 

[1995 RedVette]

Henkel bought Loc-Tite Corp. a couple of years or so ago. They have a very informative website, and a quick call to customer service would give you some idea. However, my only hesitation about using Loc-Tite inside of an engine would be:

1: Vibration - being in the valve train could induce a lot of vibration and some pretty interesting inertial loads

2: Temperature - with hot oil (230 degree F) in contact with the thread locker and hot combustion gasses passing quite close, you would need something quite a lot better than you basic formula 277 (RED) or 242(BULE) Loctites


That said....Loctite has literally thousands of formulas for everthing from bonding elastomers to each other, elastomers to metals, and metals to metals in all kinds of enviornments. A quick call couldn't hurt.

www.loctite.com

Brett

 

[RedRagTop]

Not sure what to say Mart, best of luck though!
Coming up fast...
http://www.wasagabeachcorvetteclub.com/clubevents.html

 

[Mart]

Arrrrrrgggggad :cry

Not sure what to do here.

Think I will have a really close look at it tonight, it's really hard to tell if it is the stud or nut!

Thanks guys.

Hey RJS, maybe I will just show up on the Sunday with the family and the VAN, (ouch that hurt to say).

Mart

 

[gkurtz]

Thread repair

To do the job right I always found it was better to re-tap the hole and insert a helicoil. The new thread will be as good as new. I am a designer and always specify helicoils especially in aluminum.

 

[Jack]

I'm not that familiar with your year model (86). If it has aluminum heads then the rocker studs are PROBABLY Screwed into the heads. If the heads are iron then the studs are PROBABLY Pressed into heads. Pressed-in studs have to be pulled out ... replacements can be pressed in but those need to be an oversized or secured by drilling a perpendicular hole through both head's boss and stud; then inserting a roll pin ... replacements can be also be threaded type but the boss must be tapped for typical 7/16"-14 lower portion of stud. Stud tops/rocker nuts are typically 7/16"-20 or 3/8"-24. OEM nut is typically 3/8"-24.
JACK:gap

 

[Mart]

This is an early style 86, iron head press in studs.


Thanks guys
Mart

 

[Moonunit 451]

You could replace just one, but you will likely have to by a set of studs. They do screw into the head on the early 86. They are not expensive.

 

[rrubel]

You can buy single studs from Summit, or could last year. But even a full set of studs won't cost more than $30-$40 for what you need. Let me check in the garage; I *might* still have the set that was installed in my new heads before I upgraded to 7/16" (you need 3/8", in case you were wondering).
[RICHR]

 

[Mart]

Are you guys sure they screw into the early 86 iron heads I do not see a nut to grab it with?

 

[Moonunit 451]

Are you guys sure they screw into the early 86 iron heads I do not see a nut to grab it with?

Should be right up against the head, gotta take the nut rocker and spring off to see it

 

[rrubel]

Pretty sure mine were pressed in... Mad-Mic's got the heads right now; if he's reading this maybe he'll check.
[RICHR]

 

[Moonunit 451]

Pretty sure mine were pressed in... Mad-Mic's got the heads right now; if he's reading this maybe he'll check.
[RICHR]

Whoa, my bad You're right Rich, I had forgotten, been so long now since I messed with those

 

[Mart]

Yup I'm absolutly positive they are press in but I got it back together today with a new nut, reset the valve lash on that side, and WOW what an improvement.

Went for a quick drive where a Caddy CTS and a Cherokee with the biggest set of dual pipes I have ever seen. Hee Hee were those things ever slow.

Oh well I feel better now.

One more question? What's with the method of setting valve lash in the factory manual (i.e - set #1 on TDC at 0* then set the valve for intake 1,3,4,7 and 1,2,5,6 exhaust "not these exact numbers but you get the idea" then rotate around to #6 TDC and continue with the remaining)

Does this method work?

Mart

 

[rrubel]

The factory manual is designed for quickly doing the job. I've now done the adjustment three different ways - start the car and tighten until the clicking stops, do every 90 degrees and tighten a pair, and the method from the book. I actually got the best results (so far) using the book's method, and it was the easiest.
[RICHR]