Rubbing/Squeal noise from clutch on '66 327 w 4 speed

[74bigblock]

Last fall my buddy and I replaced the clutch and fly wheel in his '66 327; we did the whole kit with new pilot and throw out bearing. Once we finished, it ran great for a few days... then this noise became apparent.

It sounds like something that spins is rubbing. It is in the clutch area, but we aren't sure what it is. We know it is not the anti-rattle springs (as we thought it might be; we replaced them with new and still makes this noise).

The noise happens:
-durring startup when starter is engaged
-while in Neutral with the clutch all the way out (when depressed slightly, the noise dissapears).


Should we simply adjust the clutch fork until the noise stops? We aren't sure what to do. Any advise/expertise is appreciated.

Thanks!
-Dave

 

[vette-dude]

My experience with this type noise is the TO brg is bad. I know you said you put a new one in. Did you apply a light coat of grease on the input shaft spines and the inside of the TO brg? Also did you grease the pilot brg? I have put new TO brgs in and found out within a few miles they are BAD ( as in defective)!! PITA to have to re-do for sure. Adjusting till it goes quiet may work for awhile. Still have to have some free play in clutch pedal though so don't go bonkers on the adjustment. Good Luck.


Randy

 

[tigernut]

Note that if using a nylon throwout bearing, LUK recommends not lubricating the inside of it:

"If the inner diameter of the release bearing is made of nylon, do not lubricate."

http://www.lukclutch.com/support/installation_tips.phtml#f

Doug

 

[74bigblock]

My experience with this type noise is the TO brg is bad. I know you said you put a new one in. Did you apply a light coat of grease on the input shaft spines and the inside of the TO brg? Also did you grease the pilot brg? I have put new TO brgs in and found out within a few miles they are BAD ( as in defective)!! PITA to have to re-do for sure. Adjusting till it goes quiet may work for awhile. Still have to have some free play in clutch pedal though so don't go bonkers on the adjustment. Good Luck.


Randy

Randy,

Yes, we did grease the input shaft splines and the TO bearing. We are hoping to exhaust all issues before looking at the TO Bearing because like you said... PITA!!!

-Dave

 

[74bigblock]

Note that if using a nylon throwout bearing, LUK recommends not lubricating the inside of it:

"If the inner diameter of the release bearing is made of nylon, do not lubricate."

http://www.lukclutch.com/support/installation_tips.phtml#f

Doug

Doug,

We did lubricate it... but I do not recall if it was a nylon jobbie. I will have to check with my buddy for brand and material.

Thanks for the link!

Dave

 

[74bigblock]

Note that if using a nylon throwout bearing, LUK recommends not lubricating the inside of it:

"If the inner diameter of the release bearing is made of nylon, do not lubricate."

http://www.lukclutch.com/support/installation_tips.phtml#f

Doug

Doug,

We did lube it, and confirm it is a LUK bearing and it has the inner Nylon release.

Do you think by lubing it, this is the cause of the problem??

-Dave

 

[JohnZ]

Are you sure you got the end of the clutch fork and its tension spring correctly installed in the groove on the TO bearing? The design allows it to be assembled incorrectly, with the ends of the clutch fork capturing the rear flange on the bearing and the tension spring rearward of the flange instead of having both the fork and the spring in the groove. This will make noise, and will also either limit or eliminate the capability to get correct pedal free play adjustment; I've seen this more than once.

 

[74bigblock]

Are you sure you got the end of the clutch fork and its tension spring correctly installed in the groove on the TO bearing? The design allows it to be assembled incorrectly, with the ends of the clutch fork capturing the rear flange on the bearing and the tension spring rearward of the flange instead of having both the fork and the spring in the groove. This will make noise, and will also either limit or eliminate the capability to get correct pedal free play adjustment; I've seen this more than once.

John,

This sounds to me like a more plausable noise maker than accidentally lubing the TO bearing. I think we have two good places to start... the Clutch Fork, and if not that, then the TO bearing.

Thanks again to all.... let's see what we find here in the next few days.

-Dave

 

[74bigblock]

And the verdict.....









Bad TO Bearing! This thing has so much play in it, I'm not sure how it even functioned. Anyhow... we are ordering a new one and hopefully all will be fixed.

 

[vette-dude]

Glad you found it. Sorry you have to change it but better now then when it locks up and destroys something else. Hope the new one does the trick.

Randy

 

[Subfixer]

How many others have had a similar problem? I replaced the whole clutch setup in my 64 a couple of years ago with the "complete" LUK package and within 2 months, the TO bearing was noisy again. When I pulled it out, it sounded like it was dry inside when I spun it.

I'm now reassembling the car after about 18 months of other repairs and I'm going to NAPA to get a new TO bearing. Hopefully, this one will last longer.

 

[74bigblock]

How many others have had a similar problem? I replaced the whole clutch setup in my 64 a couple of years ago with the "complete" LUK package and within 2 months, the TO bearing was noisy again. When I pulled it out, it sounded like it was dry inside when I spun it.

I'm now reassembling the car after about 18 months of other repairs and I'm going to NAPA to get a new TO bearing. Hopefully, this one will last longer.

No Kidding! For 20 bucks, how many people even contacted LUK for a replacement. It's not worth it. I bet it costs them 2$ for that part. What a sham.

 

[tigernut]

I recently installed an LUK 11" clutch kit (part# 04-049) into my C2.

It performed flawlessly during my initial cruise around the block last week.

I'll be watching and let you all know if I have problems. I'm more than a little concerned considering the above posts.

Doug

 

[74bigblock]

OK Check these pix out!!! TO Bearing Weird!!!

So we are knocking our heads trying to figure out if this TO Bearing is bad, or if it's just plain mis-shapen. Take a look at these two pix and let me know what you think.

You can see that the old TO Bearing is both larger (circumference) and taller by a few mm. Is this normal for a repro to be smaller?

Also, there is already a groove on the new TO bearing where it rides along the clutch. This TO bearing might have 300 miles on it. Again, is this normal?

The free play is not as bad as I was told, but basically the whole nylon housing portion moves about 2 mm from side to side, but not in and out. Normal?

Pix from camera phone: