Rustproofing of frame with body on

[Bob Chadwick]

I have gotten the frame in the two wheel wells rust proofed with POR15 and black satin Rustoleum. A little clean up and the right wheel goes back on.

http://home.attbi.com/~jchadwick/rustproofing.htm

Next week I'm going to pull the mufflers and spare tire holder and begin on the metal cross members up under there.

On the left wheel I brushed the Metal Ready on. On the right wheel I sprayed it on. The first method was neater but I think the second method gets more of the rust destroying chemical in the tighter places.

Bob

 

[vmrod]

Nice!

Those pics gave me a flashback to the beginning of the year! My car looked just like that! Jack, jack stands and everything! :cool

Have you thought of changing the crossmember bushings? I changed mine out. They were not to bad, but I figured that if I do it now, the car should not need it again.

I'm hoping that one day, I can yank off my body, and really clean up the frame. I wanted to do it, but did not have the facilities or equipment.

Today at lunch, I plan on checking out some vettes that a guy is parting out. I can get a power steering pump pulley for $5!! Maybe I can get an A/C condensor and frame for my rear storage boxes too. (1980 style seats would be a plus):cool

 

[Bob Chadwick]

At the beginning of the year I had the whol dash out and was wondering if I was ever going to get it back together. A very frustrating time.

I hadn't thought of changing out the cross member bushings, mainly because I didn't know about them. I'll take a look in my AIM. What was involved.

I rpelaced the frame for my rear storage boxes and your welcome to the old one for the cost of shipping. If you just need a couple of pieces there are lots of good pieces here that you could salvage. Let me know. If you are interested, I could post a picture.

Bob

 

[vmrod]

For the crossmember bushings, this is what I did.

First, removed the single bolt from each bushing. Then, by using a screwdriver (& hammer), I un-bent the several locktabs. (Don't worry, your crossmember will probalby not fall down.) I had to use a large crowbar and pry between the crossmember and the frame. (Make sure the crowbar only touches metal and does not mar any fiberglass.) I did a little on each side at a time. The crossmember will fall down once done. (It is heavy, since the differential is bolted to it.) My bushings were stuck to the upper frame of the car, so I had to pry them off with a screwdriver.

To install: I put the new bushings in the crossmember, then jacked it back up into place. Once in place, I put the bolts back in tightly, then bent the lock tabs over. That's it. It's a little bit of a pain, but with patience...not bad.

All I really need for me rear door hatches (I have 3) is the outer frame for it. My doors are in pretty good shape. Post a pic of yours.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Vic,

I don't think it's going to have what you need but let me know. The frame has one crack evdidenced in the middle picture, though I'm not 100% sure this wasn't how it came.

If you want it it's yours for the cost of the mailing.

Bob

Left side

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Middle

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Right Side