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sanding advice

EYESOFTEX

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2001
Messages
111
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Corvette
1972 Corvette (C3) LT1
Hello everyone , I need some advice on sanding down my C3 . I`m going to shoot the primer my self(3M Urethane/Catatyst). My Car has been covered with some form of clear with flake in it , over the original paint. How far should I take it down ? Can I ruff up the clear coat and shoot it ? or do I have to remove all of the clear coat, this is no show car ,and it is my everyday driver ( not much money) But i still want it to look good . I`m not doing the final paint , but I want to do as much as I can up to that point. Is there aother threadsome one can direct me to Or?
 
From my past experience with metal flake, it takes about 5 coats of clear to smooth it out. So if you paint over it, it will be prone to cracking. It's almost too thick already. So sand it down to the base coat or primer if you don't want problems with the new paint.
 
Sanding

Hello everyone , I need some advice on sanding down my C3 . I`m going to shoot the primer my self(3M Urethane/Catatyst). My Car has been covered with some form of clear with flake in it , over the original paint. How far should I take it down ? Can I ruff up the clear coat and shoot it ? or do I have to remove all of the clear coat, this is no show car ,and it is my everyday driver ( not much money) But i still want it to look good . I`m not doing the final paint , but I want to do as much as I can up to that point. Is there aother threadsome one can direct me to Or?


Thanks guy`s , I have no Ideal what kind of paint the last owner shot on it, I boughnt it from a insurance auction 6 years ago, the Clear was not shot thick, you can still feel the flake , looks like one coat, the one they shot the flake with. I`ve been sanding down the rear deck with 180 but its wearing me out.LOLHow coarse of sand paper can I use to take it down, with out leaving bad scraches that the primer won`t cover. Thanks in advance for your help so far.
 
Since you don't know what you're going to be covering, I'd take it to the factory primer. Better safe than sorry.

:)
;LOL;LOL;LOLNo Kidding!!! I hate it when I get a Psychotic Reaction,Exspecially if some SOB thought he didn't need any Catalyst because it would be $70. cheaper!!!:eyerole :eek:hnoes180's fine for now, If you think your tired Now,Just wait till you Block the 2K Primer with 320,and then 500,and then 800,and then 1000!!!:rotfl:rotfl:rotfl Oh wait,What kind of paint are you going to put back on it???;shrug:upthumbs
 
;LOL;LOL;LOLNo Kidding!!! I hate it when I get a Psychotic Reaction,Exspecially if some SOB thought he didn't need any Catalyst because it would be $70. cheaper!!!:eyerole :eek:hnoes180's fine for now, If you think your tired Now,Just wait till you Block the 2K Primer with 320,and then 500,and then 800,and then 1000!!!:rotfl:rotfl:rotfl Oh wait,What kind of paint are you going to put back on it???;shrug:upthumbs


GM junkie I`m Going to have a shop shoot the original Factory color 1972 bryar blue #970 on the tag, I just want to do all the prep. Work my self then I will know whats under the paint, & that the panels are straight, you think I could use 150 grit, to take it down. GM Junkie I dont` really mine the sanding,my arms need a little building up. LOL I`m doing it all by hand 12-Inch file board ,3x5 sand blocks , 3-Q-inch flexable blocks, I want the body to look and feel like Glass. Don`t have the money to beed blast it, But I do have time LOL, time to sand.
 
GM junkie I`m Going to have a shop shoot the original Factory color 1972 bryar blue #970 on the tag, I just want to do all the prep. Work my self then I will know whats under the paint, & that the panels are straight,
But what Kind of paint?? Lacquer,Acrylic Enamel,Urethane Single Stage,Base Coat Clear Coat;shrug;shrug It makes a difference on the preparation and how much work you have to go through!!:upthumbs
 
But what Kind of paint?? Lacquer,Acrylic Enamel,Urethane Single Stage,Base Coat Clear Coat;shrug;shrug It makes a difference on the preparation and how much work you have to go through!!:upthumbs

I`m going to prime with 3M-Catalyzed/Urethane/primer/yellow & Finnish with Single stage Urethane
 
I`m going to prime with 3M-Catalyzed/Urethane/primer/yellow & Finnish with Single stage Urethane
If it's 2K primer you'll be allright to block the primer with 320 and finel sand with 500 and not have a scratch problem!!:upthumbs
 
I`m going to prime with 3M-Catalyzed/Urethane/primer/yellow & Finnish with Single stage Urethane
This is what it looked like when I got it in 2000
looks much better now.Finnally got all the parts together .now its time for paint. I`m going to be 50 June 12th wanted to have the car finnish by July4th .
 
If it's 2K primer you'll be allright to block the primer with 320 and finel sand with 500 and not have a scratch problem!!:upthumbs
Thank you GmJunkie, if I have any more questions I`ll be back.
 
This is how I did it. I also stripped, sanded and shot my primer and had a shop spray the color. Go to a paint store and buy some stripper that is FIBERGLASS SAFE. Put a few coats on and scrape it off, being carfull NOT TO SCAR THE BODY. The lightly sand the paint ridges with 80 grit. The 120, then 200, then 300. Be sure that all the scratches in the fiberglass are out. Let the car bake in the sun to be sure any stripper residue is burned off. Spray the car with 2 thick coats of primer. Sand the primer lightly to get the "orange peel" off. If your doing it yourself, there will be alot of it! Then wetsand it with 600 veryfine, then 800 veryfine. Be sure to ALWAYS use sanding blocks, or wrap the sandpaper around a squeegy. If you dont, you might see small vallys where your fingers ran back and forth.
Remember, the finall job is only as good as the prep.
Best Wishes
zachh
 
I checked at the auto stores for stripper that was fiberglass safe, and all said safe for metal only. Evan the stripper that was for airplanes was only metal safe.
 
I took 5 layers of paint down on mine with 80 grit on a random orbital sander until I hit the factory primer. Then I switched to 180 and took it the rest of the way down to the bare glass and I did all of the edges by hand only.
 
I checked at the auto stores for stripper that was fiberglass safe, and all said safe for metal only. Evan the stripper that was for airplanes was only metal safe.
I`m useing 120 to take it all down to the factory primer so far the work is going slow but my arms are getting bigger . I`ve heard of people useing strippers they said it was like watching the Alien movie when they cut the Alien the blood driped down to the floor melted to the next floor then kept going ,`im going to use a paint stripper on the egg crate grills on the fenders but that as far asI will go with them
 
ve heard of people useing strippers they said it was like watching the Alien movie when they cut the Alien the blood driped down to the floor melted to the next floor then kept going .
That's a good analogy of what happens with aircraft stripper. :L
Shrivel up and melt. Be careful using the Methylene Chloride stripper on plastic parts like your grills. They will dissolve!!!! Then you cry.:ugh
In fact, don't use it at all on plastic parts!
Oh, yeah, you have metal grills don't you?
 
Yes I Have the egg crate grills, Allready put striper on them they look great, they even came out shiny
 

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