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Shifter Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Geek's 65
  • Start date Start date
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Geek's 65

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65 vert with a 4 speed manual. I think that my shifter is in need of some help. When the car is cold, it shifts fine but after it warms up, it randomly does not want to go into third and reverse has gotten very hard to find. But it doesn't appear to be the transmission. I get under it and shift the levers manually - it works just fine. I have adjusted the linkage three times. So now I think I need to remove the shifter and see what's going on with it. My question is can you remove it without dropping the transmission? Any hints to make it easier?

Thanks
 
I had some of those same symptoms.

My tranny fluid level was very low.

When I drained out the old fluid and put in new stuff, it was much better.

I don't know about removing the shifter from underneath. Someone cut a small access panel in the fiberglass tunnel so I can unbolt the shifter from the tranny that way.

If you have small hands or a willing wife you might be able to disconnect it from below.

I installed new rods from underneath and it can be done but was very tight.

Doug
 
Geek's 65 said:
My question is can you remove it without dropping the transmission? Any hints to make it easier? Thanks

Yes you can. In fact I don't think you can remove the tranny with the shifter attached.
 
Hi!

I would check shifter alignment prior to removing the shifter. I had the same problem with a 65 4-speed and it was an easy fix. The instructions are in the 65 service manual.

Ray
 
I will second that the shifter will come out without removing the tranny.
I also agree with Ray about checking the shifter neutral alignment before taking anything apart.
 
A shifter problem would be present with the car hot or cold,

A clutch problem (slipping when warm/Not fully releasing) could show up with a warm car.

A low trans fluid /or spent fluid would also show up with a warm car from the trans over heating.

1-was the shifter ever rebuilt? If not I think paragon has a bushing kit for it.



I would also check motor mounts and trans mount to see if anything is moving and check shifter to tunnel clearence
 
I just re read your post. Yes definatley the shifter will come out with out the trans.

When ever I am working on a manual trans I always mark the shifter linkage with a daub from a paint marker,one on the peice coming out of the trans and the other on the linkage.I use a different color for the 3 different rods I purchased a set of colored paint markers from a hobby shop. east woods sells them also.

The fun part i find in owning these cars is getting every thing to work 100%

When I purchased my 66 the shifter was sloppy,and what I found was that the arms that attach to the trans were egg shapped I removed them and welded the worn edge closed then just redrilled them with a proper sized drill. it doesnt look like alot but with all of the little areas for slop it all starteds to add up to a sloppy shifter,

I always try to tell folks look with a mecanics eye at things and correct all of the little things as you go,Dont just look for one big reason for a problem. Normally its all of the little things that are causing the problem.
 
Wait a minute here

We do not remove engines to replace spark plugs, so unless you can confirm that the shifter itself is physically damaged, or defective, what ever you do, don't remove it, just to have a look. You will not be able to see, or do much, with the shifter in your hands, or in a vise. :ugh

However, if need be, it could be removed with out removing the tranny, but you had better have a side order of extra patience with you. The reason I mention this is because, if you think there is not much room to remove it, wait until you try to put it back in place. You will then see exactly what not enough room look's like. :cry

Problems can be traced 99% of the time to the adjustment of the shifter rods, or the wear in the holes of the attaching points.

stepinwolf
 
Thanks to all. I went back and checked the fluid level in the tranmission (by seeing how much I could add before it ran over) and it wasn't much. Maybe a couple ounces. I even checked the alignment for the fourth time - insurance against being dumb the first three - all three arms looked good. I decided that the big nugget of wisdom here was stop and take a really good look at everything before pressing off. So I spent an hour just looking at the shifter and linkage from underneath and from above. I found a couple little things that didn't quite look right. The shaft for the reverse lock out was worn above so it would slip about a sixteenth of an inch lower than it should and that the reverse arm in the linkage moved up and down a bit on the shaft it should pivot around.

I don't think this shifter has ever been rebuilt. Probably for all the reasons you guys state for requireing patience to take it out and replace. So with that, think I will see if I can't find an extra case of beer (liquid patience) and see if I can't slowly extract that bad boy and see what's up.

Thanks again for all the insight.

Geek
 

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