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Silver Anniversary Question

M

MNHoosier

Guest
In order for a '78 to be considered a "Silver Anniversary" model/edition, must it have the special 2-tone paint? In other words, can a solid colored (in this case silver) be considered a Silver Anniversary model?

If so, then aren't ALL '78's considered Silver Anniversary's, but only a slect few were painted the 2-toned silver and gray.

Thanks.
 
According to Corvette Fever, April 2002, to be a Silver Anniv. Edition the Vette had to have option Code RPO B2Z. About 1/3, or 15,283 of the '78's had this option.

Also in '78 there were 6,502 Indy Pace Cars.

So, it sounds like to qualify as a SA edition, the two tone paint is a primary requirement.
 
1978 Silver Anniversary

Every 1978 Corvette commemorates 25 years, and is considered an anniversary vette with all vettes carrying the "Corvette 25 1953 Silver Anniversary 1978" emblems.

1978 was also the first year Corvette paced the Indy 500, and 46,776 vettes were sold.

6,502 were Pace Car replicas.
(with special two-tone paint, decals, sport mirrors and specially painted alum. rims)

15,283 were Silver Anniversary editions.
(with the two-tone paint, sport mirrors and alum. rims)

The remaining 24,991 were various solid colors and interior combinations.

*information taken from "Corvette, the American Legend" by the auto editors of Consumer Guide
Silver
 
Without getting into the techinal, that's what I was thinking. I am leaving here in a few minutes to look at a '78 that he had advertised as a SA, but when I took another look at the on-line picture, it didn't look 2-toned.

Maybe he just miss spoke.

Thanks.
 
Thanks to you too, 78 Silv....

It, according to the owner, is loaded; factory alarm, 2 sets of T's, alum rims, power all (except seats of course) and the L-82.

I hope it's as good as he says it is. I might have ended my search. :D and I'll have to :beer to that!!
 
Fingers crossed!

Here's :drink to hoping this is The One!
Heidi
 
I hope your search is over. But remember.... if it's not EXACTLY what you want, don't jump on it just to have one. Be willing to be patient. "Your" car is out there. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

........... Nut
 
Summary fo the visit.

Pin stripping. What's involved in getting it off? The guy had it pinstriped way back when and I would want to get it off. He is almost the original owner. He bought it in '80 and has most of the documentation. The paint is, based on how few I've actually looked at, about an 8 of 10 (maybe 7, certainly not perfect or close to it). The paint is from what I can tell original and really in good shape considering. There are some scuffs, chips and scratches, but generally pretty good. It does have a nice shine to it for using so-so off the shelf wax products. There were also a couple spots where you could tell he used a polishing compound (or similar) and it dulled the finish. I wonder how much of that could come out? Tires are not original, but still have the nubbies. He said that he bought them 10 years ago or so to match what was originally on it. I told him the Goodyear GT II were not original tires, but that the GY Polysteel radials were. A little difference in opinion, but no biggie. It is garaged and the garage and house are meticulous. The floor was very clean. No apparent leaks, but I did spot some oil on the inside of the tire. Looks like something leaked and dripped on it, but I couldn't tell from where. He was concerned about it and was going to have it looked at. The interior was very clean and it looked like everything work, even the CLOCK!!!! Engine compartment was pretty clean, but certainly not over detailed. Hoses and belts have been replaced. No brake problems. He said he had heard that the reason the calipers would lock up was because of the brake fluid and that if you replaced it with synthetic it would solve the problem. He did so when he got it and hasn't had any problems. New shocks, muffler, and a couple other items. He said he would have no issues driving it 2000 miles tomorrow. He said it was very tight, solid, smooth and rode great. He took it up to the boundary (MN/Canada) last year and got about 21 mpg using the cruise. It has the L-82 engine. He has 2 Harleys, chev truck (which looked great!!!), a Honda he was driving today and was looking to get rid of some of his toys to by a street rod or build one.

Based on the "bible", it is worth more than what he's asking. I'd guess it was a low #1 (a #1 is at 19,200) or high #2 (a #2 is at 15,600). It's too bad we have the weather (snowing today here in MN), I would have liked to gotten out in it. We did start it and it sounded OK after it warmed up a bit. He did start it this morning because it was still warm when I got there. He did say he was pretty firm at 14,200.

Thoughts anybody. I am not a seasoned Vette guy, but certainly know more about them than I did several weeks ago. It's still reassuring to here what others think.

Appreciate it.
 
$14,200 sounds good to me...

Ours was purchased over 10 years ago for $9,500, and it is an L48 with all the bells and whistles, no extra t-tops though. As far as appreciation/depreciation goes, it sounds like a good price to me.

It also sounds like he takes care of his home and vehicles very well. I would also like to take it for a test drive, but with snow you are sorta limited.

Hard decision...think about it and see if there are any points you could 'pick apart' that would be a detraction for you.

I don't know how to remove pinstripping. We had 78 painted just over a year ago, and had the pinstripping masked and painted on, then clear coat painted over so there are no ridges at the edge of the striping. In that time, I have acquired a few road chips (mostly from my own tires) but my philosophy is "chips happen, I'm still driving it!"

Good luck on deciding!
Heidi
 
I'm a novice myself, but I've been looking for a 78 SA for a little while. I haven't found "the one" yet, but let me play devil's advocate and throw out a couple points for you to think about.

1. Assume it is at best a #3 daily driver until proven otherwise. A car always seems to look best at first glance, but upon further inspection more flaws keep popping out. The paint description alone takes it out of my #1 definition. Plus, if you haven't had a good look underneath at the frame and suspension, assume the worst rather than the best.

2. The oil on the inside of the tire sounds like a brake rebuild to me. Not a crisis, but factor in the cost. The shark brake design is prone to corrosion from exposure to the elements. I have seen a stainless steel replacement kit (brakes and rotors) for around $700. There may be better, less expensive options out there.

3. An owner who starts up a car before you see it could be hiding leaking valve seals (it would smoke when first started after sitting a while) or some other starting problem. Be skeptical.

4. IMHO, you must take it for a drive before closing the deal to at least give the engine and transmission a rudimentary checkout. Better yet, drive it to a known, trusted mechanic and get his/her assessement -- particularly a compression check.

5. What Nut said is true. There are plenty of 78 SA's out there. And, if you are not necessarily locked in to that particular model you have even more choices. Odds are, the seller doesn't have a lineup of potential buyers grabbing for their checkbooks. Take your time and make sure its the right one for you.

6. Go to http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/buying.html There is a very detailed buyer's evaluation form there that will at least give you food for thought when looking at this Corvette and others. And, it will help you remember exactly what it was you saw.

Sorry to be so long-winded, but I've looked at several 78 SA's and Pace Cars and, after sleeping on it, find that I have rationalized some of the shortcomings with each one I have seen so far. So -- still looking. :crazy

Gook luck! :)
 
Thanks Mike.

Like I said, yesterday was my first look and I was there for an hour or so. Inside, outside and underneith. The shocks have been replaced. I don't think I would throw it into a #3 because it is low miles, it's not very dirty underneith and it appears as though it needs no initial work done. Well, other than the oil I saw and he said he was going to have it looked at. Obviously, on the inside of the tire you are not going to see anything unless you get on the floor and look. Like I did with my flashlight. Also, looking at his house, garage and the toys he had in it, I feel pretty confident that he's taken good care of it. The underside of the engine was a little greasy/oily, is that common for a vette or anycar? Probably some. However, I did make sure to check the garage floor and it showed no signs of having been leaked on and there weren't any signs of a fluid drip just wating to hit the floor.

Except for a new vehicle that I was absolutely sure I wanted (my current Chev truck) I would insist on driving first. It is a new listing and based upon what I saw and his asking price, he will have some activity.

Again, thanks. I'm looking at another '78 possibly tomorrow or Sat and I've got a line on an '81 in Memphis that also looks good.

I'll keep all of you posted..........if you want or all you can stand it. :grinshot
 
I couldn't get beyond the first page. Where it said "continue", it wouldn't let me. I think I had seen it before, but had a similar problem.
 
MNHoosier said:
The underside of the engine was a little greasy/oily, is that common for a vette or anycar? Probably some. However, I did make sure to check the garage floor and it showed no signs of having been leaked on and there weren't any signs of a fluid drip just wating to hit the floor.

That would be a reason to put it up on a hoist and get a better look. I did the same thing when I bought the '71 (checked the floor) and it was spotless. Well, apparently the guy kept something (cardboard?) under the car until he had a potential buyer, because I can tell you our garage floor isn't clean! I still love the car and probably would have bought it anyway, but maybe not for as much $$...

Happy hunting!
Barb :w
 

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