sorry for another dumb question but........

[BarryK]

early? I've been up since about 5am.

thanks, I'll pick up some pipe dope while i'm out getting a few other items today.

 

[BarryK]

Junk, I don't give up that easy when I have a bug up my a**.............

 

[JohnZ]

I'd leave it alone. Only two things can happen - it'll come loose, or it'll break off in the water pump. If it breaks, that will generate the longest thread in the history of the CAC. :W

 

[67HEAVEN]

If it breaks, that will generate the longest thread in the history of the CAC. :W

Okay then, Barry. Let's go for the record.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

I'd leave it alone. Only two things can happen - it'll come loose, or it'll break off in the water pump. If it breaks, that will generate the longest thread in the history of the CAC. :W

If it breaks, that will generate the longest thread in the history of the CAC. :W

 

[BarryK]

I'd leave it alone. Only two things can happen - it'll come loose, or it'll break off in the water pump. If it breaks, that will generate the longest thread in the history of the CAC. :W

ahhhhh geez John! you just had to go there and comment on my threads and their typical lengths............ ;squint:
oh well, I can't say it's not deserved though based on my past histories but I must say it would take a LOT to exceed the thread from about 9-12 months ago on the C5 section about the dealership that dropped the forum members car off the lift in their service bay.

I really HATE giving up on this thing just on principle now but after going out to the car today and trying again that thing just will not move for me at all! Also I can't see where a pipe for leverage will do me much good. The wrench can only go on in one of two positions because of the nipple for the hose. In one position I wouldn't be able to move it anyway because the fuel line sticking up is in the way and in the other position the pipe would extend out and i'd onlt have maybe an inch of play to try to move it before the extended pipe would hit the edge of the hood. We all know my luck, and if the fitting didn't break, it would break loose suddenly and i'd wack the pipe against the edge of the hood and at the least chip my paint there if not crack the 'glass. :eek
i'm giving it one more hit of PB Blaster tonight and trying again in the morning and if it don't go than I just might have to give up as much as I HATE having it beat me like this. Of course i'd hate it even more if it broke off inside the WP........

 

[BarryK]

Junk, if you want to only charge me 1965 gas prices to match the year of my car............... sure, come on up!

 

[Larry Shermak]

If you are going to use a torch, get some bee's wax and let it melt into the threads after you heat it. This works great for me.

 

[BLACK MOON]

Barry,
Try to tighten it a little before removing. Mine was a bear and required a huge adjustable wrench. You just need something longer to get some torque on it. Let us know.

 

[BarryK]

Larry, personally, i'm not going anywhere near it with a torch mysef. It will stay in there before I do that.

Black, tighten it? so far this sucker isn't budging in either direction. I hit it with some more PB Blaster and I'll let it soak for the night and try again in the morning but if it doesn't let loose for me than I think I give up.

 

[JL66REDCPE]

If you feel uneasy about removing the piece how about taking some fine steel wool and use that to clean it up then spray it with Krylon Satin Clear. I dont remember if that piece is chrome or zinc on a 365 engine . You might also try cleaning it up then spraying it lightly with Seymour EN-41 Chrome Aluminum Paint. This may be the SEM Brand that was mentioned recently -- I am not sure. I use this at times to reproduce the zinc coating on certain parts. It seems to have real good chip resistance, even on bolts. I get mine from Branden Enterprises in Feasterville, PA 215-327-4926.

 

[BarryK]

John
that's an excellent idea, thank you very much!
i'm not sure if it's chrome or just highly polished whatever either. Whatever it is it's pretty well pitted and it has a lot of corrosion down by the threads - therefore the reason I was trying to replace it.
Since I can't manage to get it out and I don't like how it looks now, your idea is perfect.
i'll see how much I can clean it up with steel wool and a wire brush. If it cleans up acceptably well I can use the clear paint, otherwise if it still doesn't look good enough after cleaning than I'll go for the Chrome paint.

 

[coves4me]

Barry, sounds like you're having fun working on the engine!!! I once mentioned that a digital camera is the best tool to have in your garage....# 2 on the list is a "butane pencil torch". These things are hand held, put out a pencil thin flame, use butane lighter fluid and are terrific for applying heat to those items such as that which you are trying to loosen. The torch can be had at most good hardware stores such as Ace or True Value. The butane fuel is easily bought at Walgreens or the hardware store. I'll bet that if you heated the area around the nipple at the water pump several times followed by a cool down and several more shots of PB Blaster, it will come free.

I'm no scientist, but the idea is to get the surrounding metal to expand as is it is heated. This breaks the corrosive bond between the two metals. Rust doesn't stand a chance. Good luck!!!

 

[BarryK]

Hi Coves
well, fun at times and other times........... well, that's another story!

heat may work but i'm not prepared to do that myself yet. I have a mental block about taking a torch to my motor. I know it's a common and acceptable practice but I can't get myself to do it. I have it too ingrained in my brain to keep outside flames AWAY from my cars and motors.
I'll leave the fitting in there for now and just clean it up best I can and just have to accept it that way - at least for now. Perhaps in the future when I have more confidence in myself working on the car i'll deal with it again

 

[Kid_Again]

JL66REDCPE is absolutely correct. Buff the corrosion off with a wire wheel and coat it with clear lacquer. Clear enamel will work well also. Do the same with your other fittings and they will match. Done well, it actually looks better than the junque fittings sold today.

 

[BarryK]

Kid

you Joisey boys are ganging up on me now.........

yep, John's idea is my new game plan for that %*&#@%& fitting.

 

[67HEAVEN]

yep, John's idea is my new game plan for that %*&#@%& fitting.

Awwww. No great big long bar that takes two guys to hold it, or no torch near the open fuel line?

This thread has gone way normal.

 

[BarryK]

yes it has Bob, sorry to disappoint you

think of the bright side though.......... there won't be a 23 page thread of me crying over the fitting that broke inside the WP as JohnZ was predicting would happen.

 

[coves4me]

What!!!!!! No danger!!!! Hell, that's half the fun of working on an old car. All kidding aside, Barry, I respect your choice, BUT remember that the reason the fitting won't come out is because it is seized by corrosion. Imagine what is going on inside that fitting. Remember the rust coloring inside the heads and block? I'm not gonna nag.....that's the exclusive domain of my wife, BUT you don't want that fitting to spring a pinhole leak after the engine is back together. If you're worried about open flames around a fuel line, I always use a vacuum plug/cap on the open end that can be had at ay Pep Boys or FLAPS. This keeps dirt and airborne moisture from contaminating the inside of the line. With adequate air circulation, it shouldn't be a problem. Just don't use a torch to check your fuel tank level. OK, I've given you enough to think about. Just what you needed, huh? Good Luck.

 

[BarryK]

Just don't use a torch to check your fuel tank level.

what am I stupid? i know better than that, matches are a much better choice to check my fuel tank!
A lit cigarette also works well - just tie a string to the filter end and lower it down to the tank until it goes out. At the point it goes out you know it hit the liquid so than just measure the string length and you can determine how low you are on gas. This works particularly well if your gas sender gives erratic readings like 67Heaven's was doing a few weeks back.