To expand on what Mikey noted, here's a little "Bushing 101" for those who may not be familiar with how OEM rubber suspension bushings work - see sketch below which is a cross-section of a typical bushing.
The outside diameter of the outer steel sleeve is pressed into the holes in the control arm, and is locked solid in those holes - it doesn't move relative to the control arm.
The rubber portion of the bushing (diagonal lines) is bonded permanently to the inside diameter of the outer steel sleeve, AND to the outside diameter of the inner steel sleeve; there is no relative motion between either the outer or inner sleeve and the rubber.
The ends of the steel inner sleeve are serrated, forming "teeth" where the ends of the sleeve contact the frame (for the lowers) or the shoulder and retainer washers on the cross-shaft (for the uppers).
When the pivot bolt is tightened, the teeth on both ends of the inner sleeve bite into the frame, and the inner sleeve is locked solid in place and cannot rotate.
With the outer sleeve locked solid in the control arm and the inner sleeve locked solid in the frame, and the rubber bonded solid to both the outer and inner sleeves, all motion of the control arm takes place within the rubber portion of the bushing, stressing the rubber in torsion as the control arm moves up and down from its normal ride height position, where there is zero torsional stress in the rubber. There is no relative motion between any components of the bushing, thus there is no need for any lubrication.
That's why the Shop Manual and the Assembly Manual make it very clear that the suspension MUST be at normal ride height when the through-bolts are torqued, so the rubber portion of the bushing is in a "neutral" or zero-stress condition with the car at rest.
That's why it's a bad idea to store a car with the suspension hanging free - it places the rubber in the bushings under maximum torsional stress for an extended period, which will cause premature shear failure of both the bonds and the rubber itself.