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Squeaky rear end

  • Thread starter Thread starter firefighter-C3
  • Start date Start date
F

firefighter-C3

Guest
:confused Is it wheel bearings? Brake dust shield rubbing? It only does it after i've been driving for 15-20 minutes. It definitely corresponds to wheel speed. It changes pitch and intensity depending whether i am accelerating, braking or coasting. At about 47 mph it diminishes greatly ( or gets drown out by exh. and wind). Any ideas. I took the wheels off and nothing loose or grinding.
 
Firefighter, check your brake pads. The warning bars may be rubbing on the rotor. If that's not it check the emergency brake. (may be to tight)


Just a thought. Good Luck

Dave
 
Thanks Dave, The brake warning bar isn't rubbing and the sound goes away, or changes when I hit the brakes, but does not get worse. I pulled the emergency brake and it actually needs to be tightened up.
 
the last diagnosis from Chevy mech. seems to be u-joints.
 
u joints suck. mine were squeeking, but a little lube fixed that.
 
I could have such fun with that thread title... ;LOL

-Mac
 
Mac,

I thought the title would get some remarks, but since no one else has;
-my rear end squeaks, lube gets rid of the sqeak but it still "klunks" when i put it in drive and "klunks" again when i reverse it. Could it be my half shaft?
I've tried puttin' in and taking it out real fast, but it sounds like something is tearing up.
(btw- this is just for fun, I'm married for 16 yrs and 3 kids)
 
Joking aside, there's a number of items which could cause squeaking like you've described. U-joint(s) would be a first guess but there's many moving parts which could cause that sort of noise.

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Side yokes, trailing arms, wheel bearings, you name it. This might sound odd but I would suggest you take your car in for a 4 wheel alignment. Chances are, as they work their way through the various checks required, they'll locate whatever is causing your problem.

-Mac
 
Check your differential snubber bushing. It is a 2 piece rubber mount that gets soft and loose. Will cause the diff to move and give a bang. Look at the u-joints for signs of rust dust at the caps and check for play in them. There should be no movement.

Replacing with part isn't too bad but the joints require careful attention with the flanges. They can easily be bent and then they're trash.

Bad wheel bearings don't go away, only get worse.

Good luck
 
rear end NOT sqeaky anymore!

PROBLEM FIXED. the culprit was a severely worn out u-joint, the passenger side, outer (replaced all 4).
Thanks for all the info!
 
Glad it worked out!! If that hadn't worked, I was gonna suggest...

Beano30Tablets_enlarge.jpg


-Mac
 

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