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Stall speed help please

  • Thread starter Thread starter 76 Sting
  • Start date Start date
7

76 Sting

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Hey guys

Looking for a recommendation regarding a new stall converter. I know this has been discussed many times before, but the recommending of a solution also depends greatly on the car set up and this is the reason I am asking it again.

Car set up:

76 ( I believe 195 hp) :(

newly rebuilt bored .30

shorty headers

true 2.50 in dual exhaust with no cat conv

no emissions at all

new Accel disty

Edelbrock RPM and 1405 setup

guessing at 3.08 gears

Shift kit

No AC

Goal:

get some tire spin off the line (NONE presently) :cry again, please don't laugh. Terrible off the line performance, but great mid RMP range (2200-4000)

Driving statistics:

1 day a week 100- 200 miles total driving per week

mixture of city and highway 50/50



I do not know what stock stall is, but I keep hearing everything from 1300 to 1700. Thinking of a 2300-2500 stall from B&M or TCI.

Will I need a additional Trans cooler?

What can I expect to pay for a stall installation?

Thanks in advance to all who apply your help is greatly appreciated.

 
You are on the right track with a 2200-2700 stall. Talk to a good saleman at TCI or B&M .Tell him exactly how your car is setup .Remember , you do not want the convertor slipping at your cruise RPM. If 70 mph is 2900 rpm ,keep the convertor stall under this.
If you are not able to install yourself ; check with your local trans shops on cost.
 
SG4206 said:
You are on the right track with a 2200-2700 stall. Talk to a good saleman at TCI or B&M .Tell him exactly how your car is setup .Remember , you do not want the convertor slipping at your cruise RPM. If 70 mph is 2900 rpm ,keep the convertor stall under this.
If you are not able to install yourself ; check with your local trans shops on cost.
Thanks for the input.
Sorry for so many quesitons, but I spoke to TCI and B&M and they just tell me what to get and rush me of the phone. I am trying to find out the reasons why a stall speed could be too high, meaning what would happen?

Do you think that 2000 is to low or to close to stock?

Do you know what would happen if I went as high as 3000.
Thanks again for oyu help.
 
The sales folks at a converter shop are going to want to know the cam specs. and the total weight of the car also.
My take on it would be something in the 2000 to 2400 RPM range.
ALWAYS use an aftermarket cooler with a higher stall converter.
When you put a higher stall speed converter in your car the transmission shifts are going to feel softer than they do now.
 
1979toy said:
The sales folks at a converter shop are going to want to know the cam specs. and the total weight of the car also.
My take on it would be something in the 2000 to 2400 RPM range.
ALWAYS use an aftermarket cooler with a higher stall converter.
When you put a higher stall speed converter in your car the transmission shifts are going to feel softer than they do now.
Thanks 1979toy

I did not know that the shifts were going to be softer. I guess you lean something new every day:D .

I am installing a shift kit in a few days, with the installation of a higher stall converter bring it back to being so so, or will I still have the neck snap action?

Thanks
 
Well.....not exactly. I have a B&M shift kit in my T-350 set up for the hardest shift that it will give. With my 3000 RPM stall converter you can NOT tell that the car has shifted from 1st to 2nd at normal cusing speeds. When it shifts in to 3rd the only way that you can tell is by the RPM drop, which is more noticable due to being close to my around town crusing speed and thus I have stopped revving the engine at about the same time. Around town I cruise at 1800 to 2200 RPM and have a BIG transmission cooler to take care of the heat buildup.
 
i have a 75 with the almost exact setup. the reccomendation i got from all sources seemed to say that a 2000 stall is too low, the guys who have them in their vettes wish they had gone higher.i went with a b&m torquemaster 2400 stall converter,i don't know the cruising rpm on this set up, but the 308 gears will possibly lead to slip,depending ion the cruising rpm.
my vette will be on the road in a few weeks, i'll know better then.
your shift kit will not make it squeal off the line.the shift kit will work when you keep it in first, and to the mat, just before the engine blows up it will shift by itself.i had a high h.p. old van that would get second gear rubber at 55 m.p.h. with a good shift kit. wish i had that motor for the vette. oh well, that's life.
 
mike weyman said:
i have a 75 with the almost exact setup. the reccomendation i got from all sources seemed to say that a 2000 stall is too low, the guys who have them in their vettes wish they had gone higher.i went with a b&m torquemaster 2400 stall converter,i don't know the cruising rpm on this set up, but the 308 gears will possibly lead to slip,depending ion the cruising rpm.
my vette will be on the road in a few weeks, i'll know better then.
your shift kit will not make it squeal off the line.the shift kit will work when you keep it in first, and to the mat, just before the engine blows up it will shift by itself.i had a high h.p. old van that would get second gear rubber at 55 m.p.h. with a good shift kit. wish i had that motor for the vette. oh well, that's life.
Mike thanks for the info, I keep hearing about this cruising speed thing why does
this matter and how do I figure it out?
Above you state to keep it in first and it will switch by itsself?? Sorry for my
ignorance but I thought if I keep it in first that it would stay in first until I
personally switch it to second?

 
1979toy said:
Well.....not exactly. I have a B&M shift kit in my T-350 set up for the hardest shift that it will give. With my 3000 RPM stall converter you can NOT tell that the car has shifted from 1st to 2nd at normal cusing speeds. When it shifts in to 3rd the only way that you can tell is by the RPM drop, which is more noticable due to being close to my around town crusing speed and thus I have stopped revving the engine at about the same time. Around town I cruise at 1800 to 2200 RPM and have a BIG transmission cooler to take care of the heat buildup.
If I am reading your response correctly it sounds like I will not get the neck snaping instant shift that I want using a 2400 stall and shift kit. I was hoping to catch second with this shift kit. Any ideas to help make this happen?
 
76 Sting-
Sit down,take a deep breath,read what these guys are telling you. You are asking questions that have been answered.
Shift hardness is controled by the line pressure in the trans at wide open throttle. Normal driving will give soft shifts ; when you jump on the gas pedal , the shifts will be firm or hard ; depending on the kit installed in the valve body.
Repeat - check your cruise rpm. Use a stall lower for good street performance.
 
SG4206 said:
76 Sting-
Sit down,take a deep breath,read what these guys are telling you. You are asking questions that have been answered.
Shift hardness is controled by the line pressure in the trans at wide open throttle. Normal driving will give soft shifts ; when you jump on the gas pedal , the shifts will be firm or hard ; depending on the kit installed in the valve body.
Repeat - check your cruise rpm. Use a stall lower for good street performance.
I apologize for digging into the questions so dramatically, but I am a true novice compared to you guys on the board. This is my first attempt on these modifications and I just want to be sure that I understand what they are saying.



Anyway, thanks for your response you clarified it completely.
 

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