stalling problem with 72 stingray, need some help

[DENNYZ06]

this is what happens:
I have a bit of a sputter sound coming out of my exhaust, all the time idle or normal driving. When I start to drive and i'm cruising no warning's what so ever she cuts off. gauges don't go loopy, the only thing I do notice is my brakes and accl seem really loose before she cuts out. and i have to wait anywhere from 10 to 30 min. until she will turn over. I thought that she might be over heating but temp gauge, depending on how hot between 160 and 210 but i don't know how accurate that is.

 

[chevyaddict]

Sounds like it might be a starving fuel problem - have you replaced your fuel filter(s) recently? If not that then a timing issue- how many miles? It almost sounds like a loose timing chain. When you say wait to turn over... do you mean it won't crank or you are cranking it then it takes this long to fire up?

 

[DENNYZ06]

well I just had the engine rebuilt, not even 300 miles on it. it has a new fuel filter on it. when i go to crank it it will make the rrrrrrrehhhh sound, but its like it won't fire.

 

[chevyaddict]

well I just had the engine rebuilt, not even 300 miles on it. it has a new fuel filter on it. when i go to crank it it will make the rrrrrrrehhhh sound, but its like it won't fire.

Still sounds like some kind of fuel problem to me. Lets wait and see what others post as probable causes.....

 

[DENNYZ06]

I had my fuel system pressure chkd and moisture chkd... they both came back good...

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Ground one of your spark plug wires when she won't start. If you get a spark, then it's fuel. If no spark, it is definitely ignition.

 

[DENNYZ06]

how/where do i ground the wire? if it was an ignition problem, wouldn't it have a problem with starting up on a normal basis.

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

electrical can be a pain to trouble shoot. intermittent shorts or opens will cause major headaches. what happens with some coils is temp related. if you have a micro-break in a wire, temp can open or close the gap. to quickly check for spark, unplug a plug wire and insert another plug into it. lay it on a metal surface to get a good ground. then crank the motor and you will see spark jumping the gap. this is a quick check, it won't test test total output, but will at least give an indication if the motor should fire or not. have you checked to see if your fuel is getting hot?? fuel lines next to exhaust and fuel pumps with no return lines are great for overheating fuel. boiled fuel will cause vapor locks and make the motor sputter and die, most of the time with flooding symptoms. when it dies, check the temp of the carb and fuel lines immediately after the motor shuts down. Brian

 

[DENNYZ06]

thank you for your advice i will definitly give it a shot to see whats up. what should the temp be? and is there a specific thermometer to use?

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

i use my hand, your fuel should be close to ambient outside air temp. non-return line fuel pumps have an internal bleed. the bypass recirculates the fuel inside the pump. the fuel is heated from friction, pressure and engine oil as it is pumped across the bypass circuit. gasoline boils at a relatively low temp, so the colder you can keep it the better performance you get. i would say don't let it get over 100*F if you can help it. SEARS sells a real nice little laser temp tool. basically an infarred, sorry spelling sucks, light sensor the "sees" heat. they run about $50 and really help finding cold air drafts in the house come winter! cool tool, but not necessary. if the carb and fuel lines are really hot to the touch, you have found your problem. Brian

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Like Bobchad says, check to see if you have spark. Your coil could be failing once it gets hot. It could be a bad battery connection at the coil too, sometimes the wires can oxidize at the connection.

My .02.

 

[DENNYZ06]

thank you all for your help and in the process of elimination...

 

[KRYPTONITE]

Problem

If it grggghhhhhh check the battery. No juice CHEVADDICTT