Subfixer
Well-known member
Yesterday, I got the last of the little things put back together, put some gas in the tank, filled the carb fuel bowls, gave the carb 2 pumps on the gas pedal and turned the key. Started right up on the second revolution. Happened so fast I almost didn't know what to do next.
Ran it around 2000 rpm to break in the cam for about 30 min. It ran pretty hot, but that was due to the timing being pretty far retarded. Has a small leak around the temp sender, but that was it.
After it cooled down, I got down to setting the timing, and again found replacement parts that aren't quite correct. With the aluminum intake I couldn't get the distributor rotated enough to set the timing correctly. Had the dist in and out about 4 times moving one tooth back and forth, but just couldn't get there. I was either hitting the Vac can on the manifold, or the coil bracket. I ensured that the dimple on the drive gear was lined up with the rotor tip, but there just wasn't enough adjustment. Finally removed the drive gear and put it back on 180* (with the dimple opposite the rotor tip) and the timing was right on with the Vac can in the middle of the available adjustment area. All I can figure is that my new (replacement) distributor shaft was assembled incorrectly.
Thanks to John Z, and SWCDuke for all the info on valve train adjustments and timing tips. I'm using the VC1810 Vacuum can, with 12* initial and all timing in at 2500. Valves adjustments were dead on and suprisingly quiet for solids. Car now idles down to 750 rpm. With the correct timing, the temp now stays under 180* all day long.
Got the Power steering bled and balanced also. Plenty left to do. Brake bleeding is next. May be drivable in a couple of weeks.
Ran it around 2000 rpm to break in the cam for about 30 min. It ran pretty hot, but that was due to the timing being pretty far retarded. Has a small leak around the temp sender, but that was it.
After it cooled down, I got down to setting the timing, and again found replacement parts that aren't quite correct. With the aluminum intake I couldn't get the distributor rotated enough to set the timing correctly. Had the dist in and out about 4 times moving one tooth back and forth, but just couldn't get there. I was either hitting the Vac can on the manifold, or the coil bracket. I ensured that the dimple on the drive gear was lined up with the rotor tip, but there just wasn't enough adjustment. Finally removed the drive gear and put it back on 180* (with the dimple opposite the rotor tip) and the timing was right on with the Vac can in the middle of the available adjustment area. All I can figure is that my new (replacement) distributor shaft was assembled incorrectly.
Thanks to John Z, and SWCDuke for all the info on valve train adjustments and timing tips. I'm using the VC1810 Vacuum can, with 12* initial and all timing in at 2500. Valves adjustments were dead on and suprisingly quiet for solids. Car now idles down to 750 rpm. With the correct timing, the temp now stays under 180* all day long.
Got the Power steering bled and balanced also. Plenty left to do. Brake bleeding is next. May be drivable in a couple of weeks.
