Starter problems

[76okievette]

I am having hot soak problems with my starter, which I think is pretty common with our C3's (mine is a 76). So what is the best way to fix it,
new starter, heat shield, heat blanket? Also what is the best starter to use on our cars I want to replace mine as part of the fix and what the best, recommendations?

 

[Vetsvette2002]

I am having hot soak problems with my starter, which I think is pretty common with our C3's (mine is a 76). So what is the best way to fix it,
new starter, heat shield, heat blanket? Also what is the best starter to use on our cars I want to replace mine as part of the fix and what the best, recommendations?

The problem is usually the field windings inside the maincase. The lacquer insulation is now old, cracked and very brittle. The best way to fix it is to replace the field windings in the maincase with new. If you're concerned about the 'numbers', get a new starter and transfer all of the internal parts over to the old case and nose , i.e. field windings, field magnets, armature, bendix clutch drive, solenoid, bearings, brushes, grommets.
Or buy a new starter and then send the old one to John Pirkle for a rebuild/restoration. Of course you could just send the original to Pirkle and not drive it until it gets returned.

 

[bmotojoe]

When it is time to replace my original OEM starter in my 1977 I will move on to the new high torque mini starter. I installed one on a friend’s 1977 and it was very easy to install. Light weight and very powerful. The mini starters are smaller and lighter and no end brace support was needed with the model we used. The link below is the starter he bought and could be installed on a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel, also straight or offset bolt pattern on the block. In our
Application no shims were needed. Because my original starter is the correct date coded unit I will box it up and put it away when that time comes.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PWM-9612&N=0&autoview=sku
Brian

 

[76okievette]

I like the mini starter should I also but a heat blanket on it?

 

[bmotojoe]

The installation I was involved in the person had hooker headers and side pipes. He did not use a heat blanket and had no problems. He bought the standard mini starter shown in the link I sent earlier, but if one was to go with the upgrade chrome finish starter I would say yes with headers and no with cast manifolds and should be OK.
Brian

 

[76okievette]

Thanks again, I don't have headers and wil not go with the chrome finish but I might but a heat blanket on just since its so easy to do.

 

[Jack]

Starter off a late model (up thru about 1999) pickup/van with iron heads works real well ... they're very small, light & last a LONG time ... they also have permanent magnets so they do not even have a field coil to fail/get hot/fail.

 

[ironmoo]

I went through many variations of heat shields and starters but still would get heat soak in the summer months causing me to carry a screw driver to jump the solenoid to roll her over.

Finally tried a mini aluminum high-torque starter and not a problem since! Also has a cool high pitch whine which turns heads when starting.

The smaller (and very lighter) starter gives more room in-between the exhaust pipes/manifold. Just for insurance, covered the starter with a heat blanket. I did need to use shims to line everything up, but with the original shims and ones that came with the new starter, it worked out fine.

The performance mini-starter is affordable and well worth the money.

 

[wallyknoch]

There is no such thing as heat soak, thats all BS. Get a better battery.

 

[bmotojoe]

Ok, then let’s change the terminology to afterboil, not heat soak. Call it what you want but it happens every time after a hot engine shutdown.
Brian

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

The car -when new- had no hot starting issues. It apparently does now. Why not track down the real root cause and fix it. Throwing aftermarket 'solutions' at it can get expensive and frustrating real fast.

-weak battery

-bad cables

-bad cable connections or grounds

-weak/worn starter

All of these can be addressed for little time and money

 

[wallyknoch]

Ok, then let’s change the terminology to afterboil, not heat soak. Call it what you want but it happens every time after a hot engine shutdown.
Brian

For a non-technical and correct answer to your post read Vettheads answer. I couldn`t have stated it better. :L But another reason is that auto parts is one of our businesses. However that being said there may 'now' be a problem by continuous grinding on the original starter. It just gives up the ship from being worn out. If it dont start within the first few seconds it`s not going to. You have other problems. We sell the absolute best remanufactured starters, alternators, and generators money can buy and THERE is a difference. And in my area people come to us because of it. WHEN they really need one that works and works and works. The price may not always be to their satisfaction as opposed to the lifetime warrantee garbage sold all over. But quality is really never cheap is it? Those aftermarket high price gear reductions from 4 cyl engines are not the answer either. I can say that there are very few individuals on this or any other Vette forum that has more HP in their collector or racing pieces. And I use what we sell and with confidence state we do not have any over the counter OEM style failures. Yep, they are that good.

 

[76okievette]

Couple of questions, now.
VetteHead if the issues is the battery or cables or connections how does heat effect these items, when the engine is not hot the starter works great when the engine gets hot the starter drags, I have replaced the battery, starter and checked all connections. The only time I have issues is when the engine is up to full operating temp.
Wally, my car never startes in three seconds it takes some throttle pumping to get it going when the car is cold (the started turns it over great) but when it warms up it will start in three seconds until its to hot then it drags down again, the cold start problem is common to Chevy 350's and its a carb issue that can be fixed with some carb work, but the too hot issue is at the starter. Your post says "We sell the absolute best remanufactured starters, alternators, and generators money can buy and THERE is a difference. And in my area people come to us because of it. WHEN they really need one that works and works and works. The price may not always be to their satisfaction as opposed to the lifetime warrantee garbage sold all over. But quality is really never cheap is it? Those aftermarket high price gear reductions from 4 cyl engines are not the answer either" My question is who is WE i would love to have a starter that would work for ever, let me know.

 

[wallyknoch]

I tried to E Mail you and keep your request private but it was blocked from receipt. Your OEM style starter should be a staggered aluminum nose piece. And it may be metric with a short switch as compaired to the older models. I would need a lot of information as I hate mistakes. A picture of the old unit! before I can handle this unlike interiors where only colors are involved. Ok,

I can try and help you at wallyknoch@aol.com

 

[76okievette]

I tried to E Mail you and keep your request private but it was blocked from receipt. Your OEM style starter should be a staggered aluminum nose piece. And it may be metric with a short switch as compaired to the older models. I would need a lot of information as I hate mistakes. A picture of the old unit! before I can handle this unlike interiors where only colors are involved. Ok,

I can try and help you at wallyknoch@aol.com

Thanks Wally I will be under the car this week and will take some pictures. Not sure why the email did not work, paulandbecky@cox.net. Thanks again.