Help! Starting it up (2007 C6)

[Jack Cooper 350]

Trans in 'park'.....(it's a 6-sp paddle-shifter); foot on brake; green 'start' light glowing....press the button: NIX. Reverts to 'accessory mode'.
Anyone else experienced this? Eventually get car started, by opening/closing doors etc. and trying several times. Currently unable to get GM Shop Manuals (to study the starter circuitry) but sounds like electrical (or electronic) problem. Lots of little relays clicking, by the sound of things, as the vehicle 'primes' itself for action.....Grateful any ideas.
Once the thing is going, it's a fabulous drive!! Would like to resolve by 08 June as going to France.....will feel (and look) a bit of a tart if I hold up 200 cars trying to get off a ferry-boat in Le Havre!
J.C.

 

[jhecox]

Sorry, I can't help.

I have an '07 paddle shifter also, but I have never had the problem you discribe.

Hecox

 

[tim414]

Trans in 'park'.....(it's a 6-sp paddle-shifter); foot on brake; green 'start' light glowing....press the button: NIX. Reverts to 'accessory mode'.
Anyone else experienced this? Eventually get car started, by opening/closing doors etc. and trying several times. Currently unable to get GM Shop Manuals (to study the starter circuitry) but sounds like electrical (or electronic) problem. Lots of little relays clicking, by the sound of things, as the vehicle 'primes' itself for action.....Grateful any ideas.
Once the thing is going, it's a fabulous drive!! Would like to resolve by 08 June as going to France.....will feel (and look) a bit of a tart if I hold up 200 cars trying to get off a ferry-boat in Le Havre!
J.C.

Ask one of the guys on this site. His handle is C4C5 specialist (his first name is Paul....just give him a 'thank you' after he let's you know how to resolve problem). He's extremely knowledgeable concerning C4-C6 Vettes. I would also replace the battery in the FOB. It (FOB) does 'speak' to or signal the the car and by reading the problem sounds like that's a starting point. (It couldn't hurt after 3 going on 4 years) Best Luck

 

[NORTY]

I'd also replace the vehicle battery as they make the car do really goofy things when the voltage drops just a little.

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

Tks guys - someone else (Tom Falconer, actually, who runs 'Claremont Corvette', and is a published Corvette author here in UK) suggested the battery (the main 12v item, not the fob).
I didn't suspect it, because when the starter eventually activates, the cranking is 'quick' and the engine fires up immediately. Anyway, I connected a charger, and the battery immediately took a draw of 4A, which decayed to 1A after about 3hrs. I'll leave it on 'float' overnight and see what gives in the morning. Maybe, as you suggest, there's an item like a relay which needs a good 12.6v.d.c. (or so) to latch and hold.....
Tks again - I'll keep you posted
J.C.

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

Weds. morning after battery on 'float' all night: car fired up first time, no problem. Drove to supermarket, shopped, car started OK again. Drove 150mi to South West (great drive!)- parked for lunch: took about 10 attempts to get the starter-motor to 'kick in'. Damn. Thursday (yesterday): started OK in morning and at the one stop/re-start. Today (Fri 28 May): as yesterday - no problems (4 stop and re-starts). Drove 150mi back to home. The only thing I did on Weds. evening was open up the fob and check there was no corrosion around the fob battery. There wasn't. Still flummoxed................Door lock/unlock works OK using fob.
J.C.

 

[tim414]

Weds. morning after battery on 'float' all night: car fired up first time, no problem. Drove to supermarket, shopped, car started OK again. Drove 150mi to South West (great drive!)- parked for lunch: took about 10 attempts to get the starter-motor to 'kick in'. Damn. Thursday (yesterday): started OK in morning and at the one stop/re-start. Today (Fri 28 May): as yesterday - no problems (4 stop and re-starts). Drove 150mi back to home. The only thing I did on Weds. evening was open up the fob and check there was no corrosion around the fob battery. There wasn't. Still flummoxed................Door lock/unlock works OK using fob.
J.C.

Norty maybe correct. I would replace the battery. C6 Vettes are EXTREMELY particular regarding battery voltages. If your battery is tettering and you've had it 3 going four years go ahead and replace it. Even if you charged it. I'm sure that C4C5 would say the same as me and Norty did.

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

I think I'll take your advice and fit a new battery, if only to eliminate one possible cause of the problem. I haven't used the car today ('rode hard and put up wet' yesterday!), but I have just checked the batt. voltage: reads 12.66v.d.c which seems OK to me.
Tks again 'Orange North Tx' - I appreciate your input (and, of course, Norty's etc.). Is C4C5 reading this thread? If so - any ideas?
J.C.

 

[tim414]

I think I'll take your advice and fit a new battery, if only to eliminate one possible cause of the problem. I haven't used the car today ('rode hard and put up wet' yesterday!), but I have just checked the batt. voltage: reads 12.66v.d.c which seems OK to me.
Tks again 'Orange North Tx' - I appreciate your input (and, of course, Norty's etc.). Is C4C5 reading this thread? If so - any ideas?
J.C.

Correct if I am wrong, but I believe a "hot" fully charged (model 75 battery-if I remember correctly that is what C4C5 said) that fits C6's measures 13.7 volts (I know it's 12 volt bty)....I am almost positive that C4C5 said that "it (vette) likes OVER 13 volts.....". You would NOT be wasting money to replace a Vette battery (that is NOT driven daily) that is over 3 years old.....the big thing is NOT driven daily....which IS the case with LOTS of Vettes......Tim

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

Tks Tim - I'll definitely try a new battery. My '07 is not driven every day, although I always make a point of giving it a run at least once a week.
Best rgds - J.C.

 

[c4c5specialist]

Hi there,
Yes, battery voltage caused your concern.

You need at least 12.5 volts and 500 CCA in order for your electrical system to run correctly and start your car.

If your vehicle sits for more than a month, I would disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent battery drain down.

I would also suggest having your car checked for the latest programming updates for your car.

PCM RCDLR and BCM should always be checked. Correct drain is 10-20ma for Corvette from 2005-2011.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

Thanks C4C5!
The car started and ran perfectly today; batt. voltage was 12.45 prior to starting. I'll put it on charge tonite, but will buy a replacement next week. (The battery is AC Delco type 8538; 590CCA).
Here's a question: there's a 'start/crank' relay on the internal fuse panel in the passenger foot-well. (There's also a 20A fuse, which I can see is OK). The relay is mounted on a sub-section behind a black plastic cover, which I assumed was a push-fit, but damned if I could unclip it. There is also a hex bolt head in the centre of the lid: when I undid this, it disconnected an (or maybe more than one) electrical circuit, as the footwell lamp went out, and the clock stopped showing the time. I stopped at that point! (I was intending to remove the relay and see if it activated OK with an external 12v.d.c. supply; also, I was hoping the removal/refitting process would clear any bad connections on the base (socket) or pins).
I am a retired telecomms engineer, incidentally, so should be able to follow any technical stuff you write.
I have been trying to get the 2007 GM Shop Manuals but they are unavailable at present.....
Best rgds - J.C.

 

[tim414]

Hi there,
Yes, battery voltage caused your concern.

You need at least 12.5 volts and 500 CCA in order for your electrical system to run correctly and start your car.

If your vehicle sits for more than a month, I would disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent battery drain down.

I would also suggest having your car checked for the latest programming updates for your car.

PCM RCDLR and BCM should always be checked. Correct drain is 10-20ma for Corvette from 2005-2011.

Allthebest, c4c5

Hey JC.....I would follow his advice.....maybe take to dealer and have the dealer check programming algors...they WERE updated to cover issues similiar to yours and maybe get a repl bty....I think in the past C4C5 also said bty needs to be a model 75 bty.... hope he see's what I'm saying and if I'm telling you wrong then correct me.....hope this fixs your issues.....tim

 

[c4c5specialist]

Thanks C4C5!
There is also a hex bolt head in the centre of the lid: when I undid this, it disconnected an (or maybe more than one) electrical circuit, as the footwell lamp went out, and the clock stopped showing the time. I stopped at that point! (I was intending to remove the relay and see if it activated OK with an external 12v.d.c. supply; also, I was hoping the removal/refitting process would clear any bad connections on the base (socket) or pins).QUOTE]

Hi there,

That hex bolt disconnects the connector at the REAR of that panel, which is ACTUALLY the body control module.

Simply disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Now, you will need to slowly tighten that hex bolt to 62 inch lbs.

Reconnect the negative battery cable to 71 in lbs.

And everything should work normally again.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

Tks C4C5 and Tim. I didn't really make myself very clear in the previous post - my wife interrupted me ('Dinners ready....'). My question really should have been: how do you remove the black plastic cover over the 'start/crank' relay? I tried squeezing it, and (gently) prying it off with a s/driver.....no dice.....any clues!?

I'll also check with the dealer about any programming algorithm updates. I will fit a new battery, but I'm not convinced that is the problem. 'PCM' and 'BCM' I understand; what does 'RCDLR' stand for?
Tks again - appreciate all your inputs. Best rgds - J.C.

 

[Hib Halverson]

I think what I'd do before buying a new battery, is have the existing unit tested. A battery tester will tell you much about the condition of the battery. The reason i suggest this is there is a chance, IMO, that the problem you have might not be the battery. It might be wires and connections. If the battery tests OK, I'd look elsewhere before I'd change the battery. While it is possible for a battery to fail after 3 years, typically, the OE units will go five years or more unless they are abused.

Also, there seems to be some confusion about "battery voltage".

A fully charged 12V automotive battery will read 12.5 volts. Each cell produces 2.1 volts and there are six of them in a 12V battery.

The only time you may see higher than that is immediatley after you disconnect a charger or when the engine is running. Typically with the alternator running, the B+ voltage will be 13.5V or thereabouts.

RCDLR= remote control door lock receiver...that's the module that controls door locking.

Lastly, with respect to the Factory Service Manual, you can order them from Zip Products in the U.S. They ship internationally.

 

[tim414]

I think what I'd do before buying a new battery, is have the existing unit tested. A battery tester will tell you much about the condition of the battery. The reason i suggest this is there is a chance, IMO, that the problem you have might not be the battery. It might be wires and connections. If the battery tests OK, I'd look elsewhere before I'd change the battery. While it is possible for a battery to fail after 3 years, typically, the OE units will go five years or more unless they are abused.

Also, there seems to be some confusion about "battery voltage".

A fully charged 12V automotive battery will read 12.5 volts. Each cell produces 2.1 volts and there are six of them in a 12V battery.

The only time you may see higher than that is immediatley after you disconnect a charger or when the engine is running. Typically with the alternator running, the B+ voltage will be 13.5V or thereabouts.

RCDLR= remote control door lock receiver...that's the module that controls door locking.

Lastly, with respect to the Factory Service Manual, you can order them from Zip Products in the U.S. They ship internationally.

I knew I was remembering 13. something for a reason....thanks Hib.....

J.C.....this guy knows quite a bit about Vettes as well....you can definitely trust what he's telling you....I will bow out now since you have the attention of the two "resident" experts (Hib and C4C5).....best luck getting kink out of your baby ...tim

 

[Jack Cooper 350]

Tks for your input Hib (that name rings a bell - where have I seen it before - Corvette Fever?). Anyway, I fully concur with your battery theory, and my unit behaves as we would expect: 12.5 to 12.6v.d.c. across the terminals when 'standing' and 13.7v after being charged for 3 hrs. with the charger still connected. As previously inferred,(see thread) I do not really think the battery is my problem, but I thought I would replace it simply to eliminate one possibility. I will probably keep the original now. Again, my experience of AC-Delco batts is that they're damn good: the one in my previous 'vette (a '92 LT1) was in the vehicle for my entire ownership (9 years: 2000 to 2009) without a problem. I do take care of 'em in terms of cleanliness/charging/no abuse.
Back to my C6: Tom Falconer at Claremont Corvette has just told me he had a 2005 C6 in his 'shop with similar symptoms - turned out to be a faulty door-switch. I am hoping that the GM 'manuals' (actually on CD) are in a shipment due in on Wednesday (02 June), so I am making progress. The car is behaving perfectly at the moment, so all I can do is see 'what gives in due course....'
Many thanks for your input - I really appreciate it.
Best rgds - J.C.

 

[oldpr]

starter problems, 2007 C6

I seem to have a exact similar problem with intermittent start. The problem seem to have started when I started having problems opening the driver's door with the FOB about a year ago. . Replaced battery on FOB and problem persisted. Dealer replaced battery and alternator , problem code P0621. Problem disappeared.. 6 months later same problem, Dealer replaced battery, still have intermittent problem. When I depress start all lights go off, recycle start procedure by depressing brake or opening door and car start normally. This process is very intermittent . Battery meter shows 14.4V and as I drive it goes to 12.8V. Sometime it stays at 14.4V for a long time until I shut engine off. Currently using battery charger, battery charges at 4 Amp for about 30 minutes and then show battery fully charged. With battery disconnected current draw is 20 ma.
.Also at same time period my mirrors do not go back to memory position. I plan to replace alternator and will try to fix problem myself, as I don't have too much faith in current dealer. If I must when I get car starting right will ask dealer for reprogramming PCM, RCDL and BCM as suggested. As a very retired Radar engineer I can probably follow tech schematic/instructions . I did purchase from ZIP 2007 Corvette service manual. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Update: Replaced alternator, reset mirrors still have intermittent start problems used scan tool=No problem codes detected. When start problem occurs opening door and releasing/reapply brake pedal allows start. Any suggestions?

 

[TexasRoadRunner]

Check the Starter

Trans in 'park'.....(it's a 6-sp paddle-shifter); foot on brake; green 'start' light glowing....press the button: NIX. Reverts to 'accessory mode'.
Anyone else experienced this? Eventually get car started, by opening/closing doors etc. and trying several times. Currently unable to get GM Shop Manuals (to study the starter circuitry) but sounds like electrical (or electronic) problem. Lots of little relays clicking, by the sound of things, as the vehicle 'primes' itself for action.....Grateful any ideas.
Once the thing is going, it's a fabulous drive!! Would like to resolve by 08 June as going to France.....will feel (and look) a bit of a tart if I hold up 200 cars trying to get off a ferry-boat in Le Havre!
J.C.

My '07 would just "click" like it was a dead battery and sometimes the accessories lights would light up like a pinball machine. Then my volt meter started going crazy. Many other C6 owners were experiencing the same things as me. Then I noticed some people said the starter solenoid was damaged. Remember you entire electrical system begins at the starter so it can make weird things happen. Took it to my performance shop and sure enough, starter solenoid was toast. $550, but at least I can trust by baby not to leave me high and dry. Hope this helps