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Starting problems 2012 Grand Sport

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lifeforce
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Lifeforce

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Just bought a 2012 Grand Sport Convertible. When I bought it had only 70 miles and I have added just 60 more. Right from the start I have had starting problems. When the engine is bone cold after sitting over night it will fire right up without problem. But if it is shut off and allowed to sit for ten or fifteen minutes it will not start. It will sometimes kick and sputter. And sometimes it just cranks for the programmed fifteen seconds and then shuts down. I might be imagining this but I think I smell fuel vapor. Although I am hardly a technician, I don't think the engine is not hot enough to have a vapor lock. The DIC reads out at 14 volts or better, so there does not seem to be an electrical power issue. So that leaves a fuel pump problem or perhaps just a bad ignition wire. But I am guessing. I really love this car and would like to find the problem and fix it. And it is under warranty, but the last place I want to go for help is the dealership. I do not want to play the warranty game of endless trips and endless promises with no results. Does anybody out there have a similar experience? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. :w
 
HI there,

Well, first off, is that the original gas in there?????? 2012, and 130 miles, I would think yes.

If so, I would start by checking the fuel quality if there is any contaminants. Yes, I do agree also that fuel pressure should be checked also.

I would also want to know, how long are you cranking the vehicle for when it doesnt start?

Allthebest, Paul
 
starting problems 2012 gradn sport

HI there,

Well, first off, is that the original gas in there?????? 2012, and 130 miles, I would think yes.

If so, I would start by checking the fuel quality if there is any contaminants. Yes, I do agree also that fuel pressure should be checked also.

I would also want to know, how long are you cranking the vehicle for when it doesnt start?

Allthebest, Paul

Hi Paul: Thanks for the input. Good point on the fuel. I should have expanded on that issue previously. When the car arrived from the dealership (professional trucking company) the tank was practically empty. In January in Montana the weather is so bad that you do not drive a Corvette to the local gas station. I did not expect to drive the car for several months and I did not want to leave it sitting with an empty tank. I fueled the car by hand with five gallon jerry cans, and I used premium fuel that did not contain ethanol. I am very particular about that. Since I expected that the car was going to sit for about three months, I added a little sea foam fuel stabilizer to the tank.
Regarding the crank time, the first time this happened I started right away on a cold engine, but after I shut it down I had the problem. I must have cranked six or eight times. It would just kick and sputter. The second time, again I started right up on a cold engine, and the problem started when I shut it off. It would crank fifteen seconds and then shut down. I may have done this five times or six times. I let it sit for about ten or fifteen minutes, and then she fired right up. This was on a cool day, and Iknow the engine was not fully warmed up, so I do not think there is a problem with vapor lock. It is either a fuel delivery issue or a spark issue. But again, I obviously do not know.
This may be a seperate issue, but last Saturday I started okay on a cold engine. No problem. I backed the car out of the garage and into the street where I parked it for two hours. (spring cleaning in the garage). When I was done cleaning the garage and tried to bring the car in, it would not even crank. NADA. NOthing. No juice. The battery was almost completely dead. Just enough to light the instrument cluster. It was bad weather and I did not want to jump it with the rain coming down. I waited till monday morning, and by then there was no electrical activity at all. But I was able to charge the battery, and after fifteen minutes of charge she fired right up. I have been told that the NPP exhaust system can have a defect in it that causes a drain on the battery but that is not the problem here, because I do not have the NPP. I have a factory installed "Dual Mode Performance Exhaust." Whether this battery issue is connected to the "failure to start issue" I don't know. Any advice is greatly appreciate.
Thanks again for your response.
 
Have you checked or had the battery checked to see if it's any good? What about the battery connections...all good? Starter power connections?
 
Hi Huskerman, and thanks for the response. A new battery was installed by the dealer just before I took delivery. I have also checked the terminal connections and they are tight and clean. Thanks again. I would also add that there is No issue with the starter. When you hit the ignition button there is plenty of crank power, and the DIC reads out at 14 volts or better.
 
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starting problems 2012 grand sport

Have you checked or had the battery checked to see if it's any good? What about the battery connections...all good? Starter power connections?

Paul and Huskerman,,,and anyone else out there.

This is the latest chapter in the ongoing saga of the 2012 Vette that will not start. Until today I could always count on this beast starting up on a cold engine. But today at noon I tried to start up and it would not go. I hit the ignition button a total of 9 times, and each time it cycled for fifteen seconds and then shut down. The DIC showed 12.5 volts and I decided to take a look in two hours. Two hours later I was surprised to see that the lights on the instruments were still running, the Nav screen was still on, and the DIC was showing "No FOB Detected." I checked the voltage and it was down to 10. I hit the starter just to see what would happen, and no go. Not even a cranking sound. The starter button flashed from green to yellow and red,,,, which I have never seen before. I got out of the car and waited ten minutes. Then the instruments lights and nav screen shut down. It looks like this one has a serious electrical drain somewhere. Anybody have any ideas. Thanks in advance.
 
If it was me I would haul that thing into Missoula or even Spokan if they have a better Vette tech and tell them when its fixed call me.......a new car needs not to do that.....but that's just me. Use that warranty.....and tell them to hurry, you are in some prime Corvette country out there.....and spring is coming! :thumb
 
If it was me I would haul that thing into Missoula or even Spokan if they have a better Vette tech and tell them when its fixed call me.......a new car needs not to do that.....but that's just me. Use that warranty.....and tell them to hurry, you are in some prime Corvette country out there.....and spring is coming! :thumb[/


I know that is one option, but I do not want to play the GM warranty game. The dealership will call and say it is ready to go, but rarely is it fixed the first, the second or the third time. Driving round trip for 220 miles is not my idea of fun, especially when you know that you are going to do it several times. Why would they do this? It is called ripping off GM. Frankly, I think they knew that the car had a serious electrical flaw when they sold it. Why fix it before you sell it? You can get GM to fix it several times over and pay you to do it.
 
What about codes? Seems to me it should be throwing codes out.....that would help track down the source of the problem......a good local wrench could help with that I'm thinking.........
 
WAIT WAIT WAIT

Lets get back to basics.

If you are seeing a "no fob detected", there is some type of interference creating a problem. When this happens, are you installing the key fob into the glovebox pocket with the buttons to the RIGHT and then trying to start the vehicle?????

If your vehicles starts, THERE IS an INTERFERENCE PROBLEM.

Try that first and let us know. EVERY TIME it does not start, install the fob in the pocket. IF it then starts, I would be looking elsewhere than the engine management system.

Allthebest, PAUL
 
WAIT WAIT WAIT

Lets get back to basics.

If you are seeing a "no fob detected", there is some type of interference creating a problem. When this happens, are you installing the key fob into the glovebox pocket with the buttons to the RIGHT and then trying to start the vehicle?????

If your vehicles starts, THERE IS an INTERFERENCE PROBLEM.

Try that first and let us know. EVERY TIME it does not start, install the fob in the pocket. IF it then starts, I would be looking elsewhere than the engine management system.

Allthebest, PAUL

Gentlemen: Thanks for the input. I intend to do a diagnostic check with the local garage. I am just wondering if they need special equipment, or will any GM rated diagnostic equipment work? I would have done that sooner, but I am going out of the country in a few days and I will be gone for a month. The problem awaits when I return.
Regarding the FOBS I tried putting them in the glove box receiver and that did not work. I believe the FOBS are linked to the amount of crank power in the batter. When the battery falls to about ten volts the car will not start and it shows "no fobs". It has done this before. As soon as the battery is recharged the "no fobs problem goes away. I don't think there is an "interference" issue. I live in an area of western montana where there is a minimal amount of EMF. I don't even own a television or a cell phone.
I did a CARFAX search on this car and discovered that the dealership had the car on its lot for almost two years....actually to be precise it was twenty months. They offered it for sale for the first time in July of 2011. It was "serviced" in July of 2012. Going to talk with the dealership today and see what I can find out. I think they "know" what is wrong with it, and decided to shove the problem off on me. Thanks for your help. T.
 
I have been told that the NPP exhaust system can have a defect in it that causes a drain on the battery but that is not the problem here, because I do not have the NPP. I have a factory installed "Dual Mode Performance Exhaust."

Lifeforce. I am sorry to hear you are having a problem with your new Corvette. There isn't much worse than buying a new car and having a problem like this. Unfortunately, I don't have a solution for you, but rather would like to offer a correction that may help in diagnosing your problem.
NPP is the RPO code for "Dual Mode Performance Exhaust" If you have Dual Mode Performance Exhaust, you have NPP. You can verify this on your window sticker.
I haven't heard of any electrical problems with NPP, but there is a 10 amp fuse located in the passenger footwell that can be removed that will disable the butterfly valves that open and close in the mufflers. If you suspect that NPP is indeed draining your battery, removing the fuse would be a very simple way to determine if that is indeed what is happening.
There is a youtube video outlining the procedure to remove the fuse.
Best of luck to you.
 
Unfortunately I just had a VERY similar starting issue with my '11 Cruze. The problem was wiring under the hood that had been chewed by mice. :mad I leave the hood open whenever my corvette is left garaged for more than a few days to discourage the little critters. You might look around for eveidence of rodents in the engine compartment or elsewhere.
 
Lifeforce. I am sorry to hear you are having a problem with your new Corvette. There isn't much worse than buying a new car and having a problem like this. Unfortunately, I don't have a solution for you, but rather would like to offer a correction that may help in diagnosing your problem.
NPP is the RPO code for "Dual Mode Performance Exhaust" If you have Dual Mode Performance Exhaust, you have NPP. You can verify this on your window sticker.
I haven't heard of any electrical problems with NPP, but there is a 10 amp fuse located in the passenger footwell that can be removed that will disable the butterfly valves that open and close in the mufflers. If you suspect that NPP is indeed draining your battery, removing the fuse would be a very simple way to determine if that is indeed what is happening.
There is a youtube video outlining the procedure to remove the fuse.Best of luck to you.

Thanks, but I have been told by the corvette tech center that the Dual mode Performance exhaust will not cause an electrical drain. My previous post was in error. But I do intend to pull the fuse. I would rather hear the sound of God all the time. LOL.. I talked with the dealership today, and they are going to get with GM and have the car transported to the nearest corvette technician. I will let you guys know, but it is going to be a while. Thanks for the input.
 
Unfortunately I just had a VERY similar starting issue with my '11 Cruze. The problem was wiring under the hood that had been chewed by mice. :mad I leave the hood open whenever my corvette is left garaged for more than a few days to discourage the little critters. You might look around for eveidence of rodents in the engine compartment or elsewhere.

Dale: Thanks for the advice, and thanks for this excellent tip. I do think you might be on to something. The GM Corvette techie I have been in touch with said he suspects a frayed wiring harness, probably under the hood fuse box. I think rodent damage is a real possibility. This car was on remote storage lot for two summers in Kellogg Idaho. I know there is an abundance of rats and mice in this part of the country. They love warm engines. I am going to do a thorough inspection. I know the little buggers can do a lot of damage if the car is not garaged. Sometimes the most obvious answers are right before our nose. :happyanim: I will let you know.
 
I had been given a mild to wild system to install on my 2012 GS Convert. I forget which position caused the battery to drain (open or closed) but it did it twice in about a two week time. I removed the m to w fuse setup and put back the regular fuse. I had no more drainage problems.
The guy I got it from gave it to someone else and they have never had any problems. Go Figure.
 
I had been given a mild to wild system to install on my 2012 GS Convert. I forget which position caused the battery to drain (open or closed) but it did it twice in about a two week time. I removed the m to w fuse setup and put back the regular fuse. I had no more drainage problems.
The guy I got it from gave it to someone else and they have never had any problems. Go Figure.

Thanks. I have been warned about the mild to wild exhaust problem. I checked my window sticker and my exhaust is stock. And I don't think the dealership pulled the exhaust and replaced it with something else. Thanks again... T.
 
With less than 150 miles on the car call the dealer tell them it wont start or run. Your car comes with a 3 yr 36000 mi bumper to bumper warranty. GM gives you 5 yrs 100000 mi free roadside assistance. Call roadside assistance and have them pick it up and take it to the dealer.


Just bought a 2012 Grand Sport Convertible. When I bought it had only 70 miles and I have added just 60 more. Right from the start I have had starting problems. When the engine is bone cold after sitting over night it will fire right up without problem. But if it is shut off and allowed to sit for ten or fifteen minutes it will not start. It will sometimes kick and sputter. And sometimes it just cranks for the programmed fifteen seconds and then shuts down. I might be imagining this but I think I smell fuel vapor. Although I am hardly a technician, I don't think the engine is not hot enough to have a vapor lock. The DIC reads out at 14 volts or better, so there does not seem to be an electrical power issue. So that leaves a fuel pump problem or perhaps just a bad ignition wire. But I am guessing. I really love this car and would like to find the problem and fix it. And it is under warranty, but the last place I want to go for help is the dealership. I do not want to play the warranty game of endless trips and endless promises with no results. Does anybody out there have a similar experience? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. :w
 
Thanks. I have been warned about the mild to wild exhaust problem. I checked my window sticker and my exhaust is stock. And I don't think the dealership pulled the exhaust and replaced it with something else. Thanks again... T.

Mild to Wild is an owner installed item, it wouldn't show up on the sticker. Also, MTW is an electronic by-pass of the normal Dual-Mode Exhaust controls and doesn't require the removal of the exhaust system...

My advice, for what it's worth... use the 3/36 and make the dealer fix it! These are some expensive vehicles to repair, why let GM off the hook to make it right???
 
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With less than 150 miles on the car call the dealer tell them it wont start or run. Your car comes with a 3 yr 36000 mi bumper to bumper warranty. GM gives you 5 yrs 100000 mi free roadside assistance. Call roadside assistance and have them pick it up and take it to the dealer.

Thanks Redvett...... GM is on the way... T.:happyanim:
 

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