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Stripped bolt head?! How do I recover?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bob_K
  • Start date Start date
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Bob_K

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Update on my U-joint replacement. The partially stripped head on the 5/8" bolt connecting the hlaf shaft to the spindle flange is bad enough that even a 6 point socket won't get it. Right now I still get bite, but not enough before the socket rotates. I have the joint apart as far as I can get it by removing the other 3 bolts and am soaking everything in the best penetrating fluid I can get my hands on. I plan on soaking it all night, reapplying fluid every hour or so until I go to bed. Hopefully in the morning it will twist out. What if it doesn't? What's the best way to remove a bolt (that was probably over-torqued in in the first place) that has a partially stripped head? I don't have the french locks in place to deal with (they weren't installed) adding to my belief that this was something that a previous owner had screwed up and I'm paying the price for it. Not sure if that's good or bad. I wonder what other surprises I have waiting but at least I didn't mess it up! Any suggestions would be helpful.
 
No I haven't. Looks like a plan! My other options were going to be take a flex drive dremel and try to make the head smaller so another socket could be hammered on or cut the head off altogether. Worst case I was afraid I'd have to drill it our. Those tools look much better though since I don't have to won't have to worry about screwing up the u joint flange.
 
Those should help, but worst comes to worst, you could just use an Easy-out. They work as well, but need drilling.
 
I had a similar problem with my 82 when I dropped the drive shaft. I had one bolt on each strap round off on the rear u-joint. They were the thirteen point type heads and I couldn't keep enough pressure on the socket. I ended up having to bend the straps back to take the shaft off and then use a pair of vise grips to remove the bolts. I replaced them with new straps and six point u-joint bolts rather than the original thirteen point bolts.
 
Hmmmm...when I dropped my drive shaft (like a week ago), I had no problems at all getting those bolts undone. :) I guess I had it easy. ;)
 
usually when you cut the head off it takes the pressure off and the rest of the bolt comes out fairly easy. Those new sears sockets look good I think I'll leave a hint to the wife:L
 
If you have access to a welder, you could weld a fresh nut on top. Be sure to hit the center and a few spots on the outside perimeter. Now a socket and rachet should work. If the spot is too tight, a welded piece of angle or tubing might help break it loose. Remove the welded part for complete bolt removal.
 
Hey Bossvette, I sure hope you are more subtle with the wife than my 18 year old was yesterday when he and a friend hinted to me that I buy him a new amp for his Strat. IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN! :)

Take care.
 
Those Sears bolt sockets work well, I used one to remove the #3 body bolt that sheared off. THe bolts tha were used on the spindle flange are 7/16-20 with a shoulder. Most likely you will only find the fully threaded gr 8 in a hardware store. You can use these but if you order a set of caliper bolts they are the same with the shoulder.
 
JonM said:

Excellent product I dont know what I have done with out them.

DONT use them with an impact or air gun once they start to spin they just chew up the head. Just put them on use a short breaker bar And give it a good controlled WRAP to shock it loose.Onece its loose you can just take it off.Some times SHOCK is the best way to remove something.Also using a breaker bar with NO exstention on it allows the most shock/fource to the stubborn bolt/nut.(the rackect/exstention axsorb some of the energy.

Good luck and be safe.
 
I just re read my post.

DONT WASTE ANY MORE TIME

Get the remover it works like magic in removing stripped nuts/bolts.Any good quaility auto parts store will have them if a sears is too far away.

If the nut or bolt can come out this will do it for sure.
 
Hopefully my wife will be getting home soon to hit the brakes so I can try one last time since it's been soaking in penetrating fluid. If not it's a side trip to Sears before I head over to my buddies to watch the end of the 12 hours of Sebring.
 
Bob_K said:
Update on my U-joint replacement. The partially stripped head on the 5/8" bolt connecting the hlaf shaft to the spindle flange is bad enough that even a 6 point socket won't get it. Right now I still get bite, but not enough before the socket rotates. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Try a 12 point socket, or a metric socket.
And use heat.
 
Those tools from Sears really did the trick. Thanks so much for pointing them out. Now, do you know of any tools that will make my (soon to be ex-) wife move out faster?
 
Bob_K said:
Those tools from Sears really did the trick. Thanks so much for pointing them out. Now, do you know of any tools that will make my (soon to be ex-) wife move out faster?
watch that new Johnnie Dep movie for Ideas "perfect window" or something like that its called
 

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