Sys, and battery drain, FX3 questions

[qblue90]

Hi guys!

My name is Kevin and let me start off by saying how glad I am that I found this place! Thank you for being here!

I have several questions that I hope someone here can help me with. My wife and I have owned our "baby" since she was brand new in 1990. She's a Quasar Blue 6 spd, Z51, FX3 with 41K miles. She's had some issues (nothing drivability wise) for quite a while now, and has been parked since 2004 till now. I do not yet have a FSM, but am looking.

First problem: We have the Delco Bose gold radio/cassette. I wished for a CD player. I "knew" a person who workes at a chrysler plant and could "find" things. So I had him "find" me a chrysler RF 10 disk CD changer. I figured that it was just a Sony unit rebadged for chrysler, so I had it installed and ignore the chrysler symbol on the control unit. I had a local radio shop install the changer and while I didnt put 2+2 together at the time, it was'nt long after that I started getting the SYS flashing where my instant average for fuel used to be. This was way back in 2000. I also started getting constant battery drain. I now know from reading here that something going on with the radio can trigger the SYS, but does this include things like RF CD changers? My radio ( at the time) was working fine. Do I need to install resistors in the power line for the changer? I would like to just disconnect the changer just to see if the problem would go away, but I cant figure out how to get the kick panel on the pass. side down to get access. I dont want to break anything. I would also like to jumper my ALDL and I believe (from reading here) that for my vehicle the correct pins to jump are "A" and "G". Can anyone confirm this please. I dont want to let any smoke out. I know that is a bad thing with electronics and its hard to get it back in. I will post the codes here if someone can help me please. The SYS did not impact driveability so, we continued to drive the car, summers only till 2004.

Second problem: When we got the car out for the summer of 04 we started to get what we ass-u-me is a radio problem. First the antenna would not retract so I called Mid America and got a new one. I can find my way around a wrench a little and installed it myself. All was good for a while. Then both front and rear driver side speakers started to squeal. Almost like feedback when your guitar is too close to your amp. No music just squeal and only on the left side. Is my radio bad and could that have been causing the SYS that I mentioned above and not the remote RF cd changer? Now the left side dosent work at all. Not even a squeal...yet, but we havent driven it enough to tell. While the engine noise is beautiful, its hard to drive a car with no tunes. Could the RF changer have somehow caused this? I like the factory head unit and would like to keep that look. What should I do?

Third problem: This car is equiped with the FX3 suspension. The settings used to be, "hard", "harder", and "damage your kidneys". As of 2004, the suspension felt soft and we had to put it on the hardest setting just to get something that didnt feel like we were driving a boat. Then found out replacement shocks were 200. ea. That caused us to put the car in moth balls utill we could find the funds to fix it. (We still havent found that). Do these shocks go bad just from the vehicle being stored winters? This vehicle only has 41K miles. I've read here that Bilstein will rebuild some shocks. Are these included and does anyone know who at Bilstein I have to contact? I've left several messages with their tech dept and have not heard back from them.

I think these issues are all. Can anyone help me out please? We would really appreciate it. Service at a dealership is outside our means at the time, and probably always will be. I am looking for a FSM, so I wont have to be "spoon fed" for long. We love our car and really miss driving her.

Thanks very much in advance.

 

[JAKE]

As far as the SYS light, most guys report that when an aftermarket radio is installed, two resistors need to be installed into the radio power wires to create the resistance the computer is looking for. Could be the same with your changer installation. Maybe some who's had your specific problem will chime in.

Don't know about the squealing, etc.

I believe some guys simply install non-adjustable shocks and disable the FX3 when they don't want to fork over the big bucks for new or re-built shocks.

Jake

 

[qblue90]

Thanks for the reply Jake. I was thinking I could try to install the resistor on the changer. I just need someone to explain to me how to get the passenger panel off so I can get access to the wires. I tried to get into it, but just removing the two screws by the light do not seem to get me there. I dont want to break anything.

I did just get a call back from the tech guy at Bilstein and for 100 bucks each they will rebuild my FX3 shocks. I dont think thats too bad. Will take approx 2-3 weeks. That will be a winter project. I can still drive the car on the Perf setting and it seems to be stiff enough. No way would I ever get rid of the FX3, but I understand those who do.

Thanks again.. oh and Save the Wave.. Cant believe how many people dont wave anymore...

 

[Toms007]

qblue, I'm not going to be able to help with the radio issues, as the only thing I have done is have my Bose system rebuilt. But I have had some experience with FX3. Is your "service ride control" light on? This will set if there are problems with the shocks or actuators. If so, pulling the codes will tell you which one(s) are having the problem.


If no "light" then it is possible that the shocks are worn and/or leaking and need replacing. I had an issue with my front passenger side, mine had set a code, so when I investigated I found that I had a broken gear on both the actuator and the shock. Not wanting to buy one new shock, I chose to have my shock rebuilt by Bilstein. Here is the number for Bilstein's Poway, CA facility. Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) And a link to the rebuild option page. http://www.bilstein.com/services.php?PHPSESSID=275d353b6a52807ade9b7b60afae3387

The total for the stock rebuild/return shipping on my one shock was $156.26.

Hope this helps...and Welcome to CAC!

 

[qblue90]

Thanks Tom. I do not have the SRC light. Shocks just feel mushy and not as stiff as they used to be. They will go to Bilstein this winter.

Can anyone verify the correct pins to jump on the ALDL for my vehicle please? I believe its A and G. Just want to be sure... If it is, I'll pull the codes after work tonight and post the results.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Save the wave.

 

[Toms007]

That sounds right. Kevin, do you need a set of shocks to send in to have rebuilt, so you don't have to be without your car? I had another member on here give me a set , which I was considering having rebuilt as a spare set, was considering a different valving. But if you would like, I could ship them to you and you could have them rebuilt and you could ship yours to me. Or you could have these to put on your car while you have yours rebuilt and then send them back when you got yours back. Just a thought.

 

[qblue90]

Tom-

Thank you very much for the kind offer, but that wont be necessary. Since it was brand new, my car has always hibernated every winter. Living in Michigan, snow and Corvetts dont mix well. The shocks will be a winter project. Thanks anyway.

Can anyone verify the correct ALDL pins to jump? A & G ?

Where is a good place to find a FSM for a 1990 and what should I expect to pay?

Thanks

Save the wave!

 

[G Winter]

This is where you can order one, I think I have heard the price is just north of $100 .

http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?class_2=CAD

Glenn

 

[qblue90]

Thanks Glenn. I will check that out.

I am still hoping that someone can help me retrieve the codes for my SYS issue. If I use a paper clip on my ALDL, do I jump pins A & G? I just am anxious to get the codes and dont want to screw up. Thanks in advance! I really appreciate it!

 

[Rabbit]

Thanks Tom. I do not have the SRC light. Shocks just feel mushy and not as stiff as they used to be. They will go to Bilstein this winter.

Can anyone verify the correct pins to jump on the ALDL for my vehicle please? I believe its A and G. Just want to be sure... If it is, I'll pull the codes after work tonight and post the results.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Save the wave.

Try a to c for fx3.

 

[ecss]

[F|E|D|C|B|A]
[G|H|J|K|L|M]

Short A to G then turn ignition on.

Look at Speedometer LCD

C12 indicates diags. are running
Module 1 are error codes for CCM
Module 4 are error codes for ECM
Module 7 are error codes for Active suspension (This is not FX3)

CCM error code 72 is LCD display dimming circuit open or shorted to ground.

CCM error code 74 is LED display dimming output circuit shorted to battery voltage or CCM driver open.

The two CCM codes above can appear if an aftermarket radio is installed.

Click on this URl for the fix.

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/dave8476/index4.shtml

 

[qblue90]

Thank you Rabbit and ecss! That was exactly what I need. All you guys (and gals) are awsome here! I will attempt to extract both the FX3 and the CCM codes tonight before the hockey game (GO WINGS). I will post what I find here.

I still do not have a FSM. I am looking into other possibilities of used FSM before I break down and fork over 100+ for a new one. I will get one soon.

Could anyone with a FSM for a 90 tell me what I have to remove (and how) to get access to remove the radio head and also remove the panel on the pass side under the glove box. So I can access where the radio shop wired the CD changer. Please please... I tried and didnt feel confident that I wouldnt break something, so please if someone could help me out a little more here..

I do really appreciate all the help. Thank you very much.

 

[JimBobC4]

I just bought both FSM's for my 1995 off of ebay for about 60 bucks including shipping. The new originals are about 150.00 including shipping.

I'm not sure how good they are but a CD exist on EBAY with wiring info as well for about 10.00.

 

[Paul Higg]

Thank you Rabbit and ecss! That was exactly what I need. All you guys (and gals) are awsome here! I will attempt to extract both the FX3 and the CCM codes tonight before the hockey game (GO WINGS). I will post what I find here.

I still do not have a FSM. I am looking into other possibilities of used FSM before I break down and fork over 100+ for a new one. I will get one soon.

Could anyone with a FSM for a 90 tell me what I have to remove (and how) to get access to remove the radio head and also remove the panel on the pass side under the glove box. So I can access where the radio shop wired the CD changer. Please please... I tried and didnt feel confident that I wouldnt break something, so please if someone could help me out a little more here..

I do really appreciate all the help. Thank you very much.

So a search for SYS light on this forum and you find a thread I started a few months ago. You will find exactly how to do the resistor mod. I can send you the wiring diagrams. I have walked several people through this and the SYS light will vanish I promise you.

 

[ecss]

Could anyone with a FSM for a 90 tell me what I have to remove (and how) to get access to remove the radio head

To remove the radio control head.

Open the center console lid. At the very front inside the console on each front corner you lift up the console felt liner and you'll see two hidden fasteners.

Open the lid covering the cigar lighter and ash tray area. Remove the metal ash trays and one of them will have a hidden fastener under it.

Lift up on the back of the center console bezel and on the driver side underneath where the shifter indicator is if you have an auto trans. twist the back light bulb holder off. Then pull the console bezel back towards the rear of the car. You may also want to pull the shifter to first gear position for an auto trans. to gain some clearance. That should give you enough access to remove the fasteners holding the radio bezel on.

Place a towel over the console bezel so it doesn't get scratched up.

If you want to completely remove the console bezel, you need to unplug the large round connector underneath the front of the console bezel that goes to the cigar lighter. You also have to pry off the top plastic piece of the shifter knob and remove a snap ring for an auto trans. or remove a wedge for a manual trans. before you can get the shifter knob off. Then you can lift the whole console bezel off.

and also how to remove the panel on the pass side under the glove box. So I can access where the radio shop wired the CD changer.

To remove the panel containing the passenger side courtesy lamp.

If you're going to be working under the passenger side dash for an extended period of time, Id recommend pulling the passenger side seat out.

Look under the front edge of the bottom seat cushion. There is a metal wire hook. While you push down on the front edge of the bottom seat cushion you can use your hand or a screwdriver and unhook the bottom seat cushion from the plastic part of the seat frame. This will allow you to lift up the bottom seat cushion. Don't remove the seat cushion, just leave it loose.

Move the seat all the way back. On the front of the seat track are some plastic trim covers held on by some plastic push pins. The covers hide the front nuts that hold the seat tracks. Remove the covers and remove the two nuts.

Then move the seat all the way forward and remove the two nuts holding the back of the seat tracks. Disconnect the electrical plug under the seat cushion if you have power seats. You can then lift the seat assembly out of the car. Removing the targa top if you have a coupe can make getting the seat out easier.

To remove the foot well panel.

There are a couple fasteners around the courtesy lamp area and one at the very bottom towards the firewall area.

Remove the fuse panel door on the passenger side end of the dash.
Remove 3 small bolts. Need a thin wall socket or nut driver to remove one of them. After you remove the 3 bolts, the fuse panel bezel will come off.

This will expose the front edge of the dash carpet which is held on by Velcro. Peel the carpet back and it will expose I think are 2 fasteners.
Once those are removed the footwell panel will drop down. Disconnect the two pin wiring harness going to the foot well courtesy lamp. Pull the foot well panel out of the car. It's a little tricky getting the panel out because of the duct work

 

[qblue90]

Ive done some searching and some work....

Thank you guys! I appreciate everyone helping me out! I've been reading around here quite a bit and I tried some things. I'm fairly convinced that the SYS is on because there is absolutely something wrong with my radio system that may or may not be associated with the CD Changer I had installed. What perplexes me is that I've had the SYS light since the CD changer install. It was not untill about 2004 that the left side speakers quit working.. So Im thinking I now have multiple issues with the audio system and until I get that fixed the SYS will remain.
So Like I stated my left front and rear speakers now just make noise when I turn the radio on. A noise like an electric motor turning that builds in intensity and frequence. Reading around here I got the idea that I'd swap my left rear speaker with my right rear speaker and see if the issue followed. It did. So right then I'm thinking that my amps are bad. Its just strange that BOTH front and rear amps on the left side went bad at the same time? At that point I unplug the left rear speaker from the right rear connector and plug my right rear speaker back in.. No noise.. Now my right rear speaker dosent work. What did I do wrong?? Needless to say I did not swap the front speakers after this.. The right front is the only one that works now.

Disgusted with myself at this point I moved on to pulling codes. First I jumpered A to G on the ALDL and here were the results....

First I saw a small #1 which I ass-u-me..means the CCM module? then...
C41
H41
---
Then a small 4.. module 4? ECM
--- (I ass-u-me that means no codes)
Then I saw a 1.0
---
Nothing after that.

Then I jumpered A and C on the ALDL and counted the blinks of my SRC light which repeated each code 3x...

12 start sequence?
13
14
21
22
23
41
42
43
33
32
31
12 end sequence?

I still do not have a FSM yet so any help would be appreciated on the meaning of the codes please....
Also.. why does my right rear speaker not work now from just unpluging it? Grrrrrr. I feel like everytime I try to work on my Vette I only end up costing myself more money.. which I dont have... I shouldnt say that..I did manage to change the injectors when they died at the end of my driveway some years back. That went well..

Thanks so much for the help. Hopefully I will be of some assistance to someone here one day.

 

[Hib Halverson]

I won't sugar coat this....clearly, you've got a 90 with some problems...perhaps some expensive problems. I'm not going to address all the sound system issues as it seems there are others here who can do that.

I will offer some guideance on the problems with SRC. Let me preface this by telling you that your car sometimes may "feel soft" because it is soft. In 89 and 90, all cars which were ordered with both Z51 and FX3 were downgraded to the base springs and stab. bars. The downgrade is not widely known, even today, and back in 89-90 Chevrolet did not make its existence known to the public.

Now as far as

Then I jumpered A and C on the ALDL and counted the blinks of my SRC light which repeated each code 3x...

12 start sequence?
13
14
21
22
23
41
42
43
33
32
31
12 end sequence?

Uh....that's about every fault code the system can set, ie: were talking possible major FUBAR, here.

Just in case, some whacky glitch caused the system to set all codes, I think what I'd do is first clear codes and road test to see if the codes set again. If they do reset, check all wiring and connections at the SRC controller behind the driver seat. If you don't find a problem there, consult the FSM as keying-in all the troublshooting info for all those DTCs will take far more time than I have...or anyone would have, for that matter.

Finally, in 2006, "Corvette Enthuaist" magazine published an article on Selective Ride diagnosis and repair. You might contact the publisher to see if back issues are available. In addition, I believe "Heart of the Beast", the ZR1 Net/Registry's newsletter/magazine, reprinted that article sometime in '07.

 

[qblue90]

Thanks Hib

I'm going to hope that it was just some kind of glitch that set these codes.. How do I clear them? I have no FSM yet.. If I seriously have that many problems, shouldnt my Service Ride Control light be on? It is not. My car does feel softer than I think it used to. Driveability wise the car is great. It rips. Just the suspension feels softer..the radio dosent work.. that da*n SYS light is on... the rear tires are bald..(not sure how that happened)... Other than that I thought the car was great... What the heck do I do now? If I had not pulled the codes I'd still be thinking I only have a couple of issues.. Man I am bummed now.. I cant afford to take it somewhere..

Thanks again.

Kev.

 

[Paul Higg]

The fastest way to clear any codes is to remove the black lead from the battery. Then road test it and pull the codes again. This way any codes you see will be real time codes.

As for the SYS light. Look for my thread, did you replace the original stereo? One way to troubleshoot it without any tools is to take a flashlight and shine it at the ambient light sensor on the gauges/buttons panel. It is a little round hole with a light sensor in it. Shine the light at it then remove it and place your finger over it. If it comes and goes you will have to do the resistor mod.

Paul

 

[qblue90]

As for the SYS light. Look for my thread, did you replace the original stereo? One way to troubleshoot it without any tools is to take a flashlight and shine it at the ambient light sensor on the gauges/buttons panel. It is a little round hole with a light sensor in it. Shine the light at it then remove it and place your finger over it. If it comes and goes you will have to do the resistor mod.

Paul[/quote]


Thanks Paul.

I have read your thread on the SYS. No I did not replace the original stero, but I did have a remote CD changer installed that I thought might be causing it. I tried shining my Surefire flashlight on the ambiant light sensor last night and then covering it with my finger. It had no effect on SYS.

I will disconnect the negative batt cable and clear those codes tonight.