T-hooks to tie down C1's

[firstgear]

I am told that there are places on the frame of a C1 that you can use t-hooks to tie the car down on the back of a trailer. I have ordered some straps as well as some axle straps, but need to know if there is a good place for these t-hooks to be used on the rear of the frame, what kind of t-hooks should I buy? I have found a source, but they have so many different types, I would prefer to purchase it once....not over and over again in a trial and error situation.

Anyone got some suggestions or help?

thanks, Herb

 

[IH2LOSE]

Herb me personally use the e track system on my car trailer.

http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=77314&Category_Code=ET

With a tire sling this has been debated sevral times. but this is another option

 

[Tom Bryant]

I have never noticed slots in the frame for them. If you slip a T hook in a slot in the frame and the car bounces on it's suspension on a bumpy road will the strap slacken and the hook slip out? It's been a lot of years since I trailered any cars but I have had straps and chains come loose several times on bumpy roads. I think that the tire nets are the best thing going right now. It doesn't make any difference how much your car bounces when the wheels are held tightly in position on the trailer.

Tom

 

[ctjackster]

I have never noticed slots in the frame for them. If you slip a T hook in a slot in the frame and the car bounces on it's suspension on a bumpy road will the strap slacken and the hook slip out? It's been a lot of years since I trailered any cars but I have had straps and chains come loose several times on bumpy roads. I think that the tire nets are the best thing going right now. It doesn't make any difference how much your car bounces when the wheels are held tightly in position on the trailer.

Tom

you cinch the straps down and compress the suspension a bit, and use the proper T hook, like this one I use, the only bouncing car syndrome you will ever see is with a car with the wheels netted:

That hook in the frame slots, with properly hooked up straps (criss crossed towrds the center of the car) will give your C2/C3 the same quality ride and security it had when Mr. Factory delivered your car to Mr. Dealer. Not sure about the frame tie down slots for C1s though

 

[firstgear]

you cinch the straps down and compress the suspension a bit, and use the proper T hook, like this one I use, the only bouncing car syndrome you will ever see is with a car with the wheels netted:

That hook in the frame slots, with properly hooked up straps (criss crossed towrds the center of the car) will give your C2/C3 the same quality ride and security it had when Mr. Factory delivered your car to Mr. Dealer. Not sure about the frame tie down slots for C1s though

Do you have a part number and a source for that hook or is that something that you have always had and can't remember where it came from? Or you got it at a parts swap meet or???????

I have found a part number and source for a t-hook for the C5 I have....I forgot I also need one for the C2 that I have....anyone with something there too?


Herb

 

[ChuckG]

Wrap a strap through the bottom of both lower A Arms. Then cris-cross them, and use a ratchet strap on each to the front of the trailer.

Wrap a strap over the rear axle...either side, and use a ratchet strap to the rear.

I've towed for thousands of miles with no problems. Don't put the car in gear either, BTW. Chuck

 

[maxphunn]

I have the hooks for my '66. Never found the proper holes for the '59. Installed e-trak on the trailer and bought the tire baskets mainly for the '59. I like the tire baskets so much I now use them on the '66. The hooks are available as a "hook cluster" from most towing supply houses. The last 2 swap meets I attended they were availble. I believe the proper hook for the C2 is called a "J" hook. In the pic of the cluster, it is on the left. Used in the proper holes, it works well. I just like the baskets better.

 

[ctjackster]

Herb - That T Hook is Item # 3309048 in the Northern Tool catalog:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...6970&productId=43572&R=43572&issearch=3309048

 

[JohnZ]

Note that there are only four holes in the frame that are designed to accommodate a "J"-hook for transit, and they usually have an internal reinforcement at that location to keep from tearing the frame; the localized point stresses on the edge of a hole with a "J"-hook are enormous. I've always used the method Chuck described, never had a problem.

 

[firstgear]

got the car home the other day.....here was my set up....seemed to secure the car pretty good...anyone see anything different I should have done?

rear of car

front of car

 

[Mr.Cool]

Firstgear, thats a nice looking trailer who makes it?

 

[firstgear]

The trailer is made by R&R trailer (all aluminum) out of Michigan.....I looked around and found it in Illinois, 2004 model.....a 2005 model only an hour from my home was $700 more (price increases in aluminum reflected in the higher selling price). Only weighs 1100 pounds and handles a gross weight of 7000 pounds. Also added the winch and battery......along with the polished wheels and spare tire. You can find distributors via Google!

 

[ctjackster]

as you know thoughts vary, my only feedback to your set up is that I have strapped diagonally like you did but to an attachment point on the trailer towards the middle of the car - i.e. for the rear straps, tie down to D rings located inside and in front of the rear wheels, for the fronts, to a point behind and inside of the front wheels. But that is just an opposite system from what you used, may be a difference without significacance.

 

[firstgear]

as you know thoughts vary, my only feedback to your set up is that I have strapped diagonally like you did but to an attachment point on the trailer towards the middle of the car - i.e. for the rear straps, tie down to D rings located inside and in front of the rear wheels, for the fronts, to a point behind and inside of the front wheels. But that is just an opposite system from what you used, may be a difference without significacance.

The D rings are where they came with the trailer....agreed that there might be some better optimizing of location, but I was trying to get the car moved right away and it seemed to be held down and not going anywhere.

After looking at other peoples set ups, I am leaning to using axle straps on the back of the cars (for the C1, C2 and C5's that we have) and going with E-track with wheel nets for the front wheels. In that case I will put the E-track in a place where the wheels will sit on top of the track if I can make that happen.

Macs sells aluminum E-track so I thought that would be a good way to go with stainless steel fasteners.

Anyone have other thoughts good or bad about e-track?

 

[JohnZ]

Anyone have other thoughts good or bad about e-track?

Back in the days when I had an enclosed trailer to haul my Cobras and the Grand Sport, I used E-Track exclusively. Used two parallel straps around the lower control arms in the front, and two crossed behind the rear to prevent lateral movement. Never had a problem. The E-Track lets you anchor the straps where you want them, not just where the trailer manufacturer puts the anchors.

 

[Rowdy1]

I Agree With JohnZ

I have a 24' enclosed which came with the D rings and for my 62 it's fine. I do however have to move other vehicles and they have left me unsure about a secure ride for different cars. I installed the e track and I have no problems at all. As a matter of fact, I installed a third section down the middle of the floor and I recently took 6 full dress Harley Davidson motorcycles to Daytona and back and they never budged even with a double blowout dropping the trailer down to the rims at 55MPH. I also have a 12' enclosed that I use the e track on and I can move anything that fits in it without it moving, furniture, etc.
I use the axle straps in the front and rear but I don't cross them, to each their own but I saw a 67 slide sideways in a trailer because one strap loosened and the other pulled the car to that side it was pulling from. I also check the load every couple hours on a long drive, it takes but a second.

 

[maxphunn]

After looking at other peoples set ups, I am leaning to using axle straps on the back of the cars (for the C1, C2 and C5's that we have)

Where do you place the axle straps on the back of a C2?

Pat

 

[firstgear]

I haven't yet....only have moved the C1....but plan to do it exactly the same way, by wrapping them around the axel tubes close to the pumpkin....they will be pulling on the pumpkinfrom the left to the right and the right to the left, criss crossed. See my picture of the C1 on page 1 of this thread, just imagine the C2 rear end instead of the C1....at least that is my plan until I prove to myself otherwise....