Thought I just needed a sensor...

[firedawg]

Well, I sucked it up the other day and took the vette in to the dealer to have a new low coolant sensor put on as I thought the old one was bad. They called me after having the car for half the day and said they pressure tested the cooling system and found a leak in the water pump. So they said the water pump needed replaced, they also recomended replacing the hoses since they are 10 years old now. The mechanic (who at this point was sounding like a salesman) also asked me if I'd had any hesitation or if the engine has been "missing" any, I told him no and he still recomended replacing the optispark! Well, are you ready for this, the grand totals for the estimates were $1064 for the water pump and hoses with labor and $652 for the opti!!! :eek ad

I then proceeded to tell him where he could take that grand and told him to put the car back together and call me when it's done.

I found all parts needed on GMPartsdirect.com except hoses, but I found them in MAD. Hoses came to around $60, pump was $156. So maybe around $250 after you add in the coolant and gaskets. Needless to say, I'll be taking on this project myself, with assistace.

Whew, I needed to vent! I couldnt' believe all that.

Does anyone have any tips or info that may help me out with this project?

Also thinking about replacing my factory thermostat with a 160° Thermostat, will this work ok with factory chip?

 

[Robertwav1]

Just goes to show you what to expect from the dealer. Doing the work yourself is the ticket.....Own a vette...Learn the mechanics....they go hand in hand unless your rich! Heck.....even if I was rich I wouldn't give to a dealer! Good articles in the tech section of this web site on the opti....check it out!

 

[jmccloud]

Low coolant sensor

Have you checked the bulb in the DIC? My low coolant sensor seemed to malfunction and it was only the indicator bulb. The bulb did not illuminate when the car was first started (test mode).

 

[zog]

Have you checked the bulb in the DIC? My low coolant sensor seemed to malfunction and it was only the indicator bulb. The bulb did not illuminate when the car was first started (test mode).

I have found that MAD and Ecklers and really high priced too...I bought a NEW water pump, timing chain and gears, gasket set, oil pan gasket, and a relay from NAPA and spent $130. I am sure I saved over $1000 compared to GM or the other Corvette catalog places...I do have to do the labor, but that's why I bought the car I did...

 

[firedawg]

Have you checked the bulb in the DIC? My low coolant sensor seemed to malfunction and it was only the indicator bulb. The bulb did not illuminate when the car was first started (test mode).

I haven't checked the bulb, it does light up during the test, but sometimes, normally when it's cold, it would stay on for a while, here lately, it'll come on at random times.

I bought a NEW water pump, timing chain and gears, gasket set, oil pan gasket, and a relay from NAPA and spent $130

I'll definately have to check out NAPA! I know even GMPartsDirect just the water pump was $139.71! That's a good deal you got there!

I am trying to learn my car, I am by far not a mechanic, but I have learned alot in the 5 months that I've had my 'vette, mostly from on CAC and from just 'tinkering' with different things. My step-dad is a retired mechanic of 30 years, so he is going to help me with the water pump, if it even needs it. We looked at it today, and there are no visual indications of a water pump leak, so I am going to have it pressure tested again, hopefully monday, at my uncles shop, so I'll go from there.

 

[jpanek]

The low coolant sensor is a float inside the surge tank. It's easy to pull the tank off (2 bolts on top, 2 medium hoses, 2 small hoses, 1 electrical connector), flush it out good, shake it up and down until you hear the float rattling, etc. When it's off is a good time to reverse flush your heater core. I just replaced my surge tank ($56 at dealer) today because the brass nipple for the hose going to the overflow tank cracked out of the brass top that the pressurized cap screws onto. I'd been getting a large air bubble in the surge tank (coolant farther and farther under the cap) since it expanded coolant out into the overflow properly when warming up, but sucked air back in on cooling down, not coolant as it does now. I think this may be a significant cause of c4's overheating if you don't catch it early. Go easy on that overflow connection because the design is fragile and repairing it by soldering/brazing is impossible because of the plastic nearby and epoxying doesn't appear to work either.
That's great that you're doing the work yourself I can't stand going to the dealer except for parts. I know you've got to make a living but they just want to sell you crap you don't need half the time.

Now's the time to upgrade to a vented cap on that opti. I think it needs a different gear cover, but there's plenty of websites out there that go into detail on this. How about a new surge tank cap? Did you get replacements for all the little hoses or just the big/easy ones. I think the back of the heads have a vent (?) line that connects to the surge tank. Want to bypass the throttle body coolant line now? Just some ideas for you.

 

[drags1998]

Do you know for sure the waterpump is leaking????? SOME dealers feel the need to RAPE unsuspecting customers. The other side of the coin is, the dealer has to make a living.Be a SMART CONSUMER!!!! Try to figure out what you need before it goes to the dealer. NAPA,vettecentral,eklers, andsome others have good prices,But, MOST of the time my local GM dealer can BEAT there prices. Try befriending the counter man at the dealer,They may sell you parts at wholesale!!!!! Mine does!!!

 

[Hrtbeat1]

pressure test

I would have the old water pump pressure tested just to make sure. Sometimes they can start leaking thru the vent hole at the bottom (actually indication of rear seal going) it may not even leak enough to notice a drip due to evaporation. You may just notice that the coolant level is down a bit every few days.

I have a L98 so I don't have an opti, but I've heard they are not very water tolarant at all. Personally I think that was one of the worst engineering mistakes GM could have done. There are plenty of other cars with crank fired distributors (look at Buick) that don't have the problems with water and the opti. Not to mention "Hey lets put this under the water pump."

I just changed my water pump out in Sept. while at it I changed the timing chain since I already had everything torn down. I'm realy glad I did because mine was so worn it was ready to jump a tooth. I had nearly 6 degrees of slop. Something you may think about depending on your miles and if you have to tear it down.

Good luck

 

[jmccloud]

... it does light up during the test, ...

Then the bulb's OK

 

[firedawg]

considerations

I am planning on replacing the serpentine belt and the thermostat, but with replacing the thermostat, could I use a 160° T-stat with the factory chip?

I hadn't thought about the timing chain, something else to keep in mind!

Another thing was I was going to replace my plugs/wires while doing everything else, but as I was looking under the hood, I noticed that may be easier said than done as the driver's side plugs (1,3,5,7) are under a bunch of other things. what would have to be removed to make this possible/easier? Chilton's doesn't even touch on that, need the service manual!

I was also considering upgrading the opti to the vented design. I was looking at them in MAD and Ecklers, and they have 2 options for my car; the "opti spark distributor" or the "opti spark distributor cap kit" Which of these would be the one that I would want?

Well, I will be getting my system pressure tested again Tuesday, so hopefully I'll find out then what really needs to be done. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted. Thanks for all the ideas and help, and keep them coming!

 

[HPG]

Hey, what dealer did you use, the one in Bel Air. They took me for a ride on an 87 I once had.

 

[firedawg]

Hey, what dealer did you use, the one in Bel Air. They took me for a ride on an 87 I once had.

I went to ADAMS Chevrolet in Havre De Grace. that is where I bought my car too.

 

[HPG]

I gave up on Chev Dealers, most of the mechanics are not really good with vetts. There is a garage in Bel Air, Gallants , he is president of the Bel Air Corvette Club. He is very good with vetts, but not cheap. I went to the one in Bel Air with my 87 which had check engine light on. After the first repair, a new computer, it took six more trips and a load of parts before they figured out, at my request, that the computer they installed was defective. I can't do the work myself, too old and had back surgery , so I don't mind paying if I get a good job. That woun happen at most dealers. I just noticed a spot of anti freeze under the water pump. It comes and goes, so it looks as I'll need a pump this spring.

 

[firedawg]

Well, good news! I just got the cooling system pressure tested again (this time by my uncle), and no leaks were found! I can say I learned alot from this, so I guess that's always good because "knowing is half the battle" Thanks for the info on Gallant's HPG, I have been looking for a local place that deals in corvette repair etc. I'll be up that way later today, I'll stop in and check them out.

I still need to replace the serpentine belt and plugs/wires, but at least now, that's it!

Thanks for all the good info everyone!!!!!

 

[HPG]

I should be so lucky. His phone is 410-879-0123. He is on Atwood Rd. just off belair pike Rt 1