Throwing a code 32, Need some Advice/Help

[AlcHEmiE]

Well i bought the vette on saturday, and have since but on all new rotors/pads ($450) and new tires ($500). So finally i got a chance to drive it today.. For a little while. I took it out and its been idleing wierd. It idles around 700 rpm, and then drones down to 400, i see my check gauges light come on, and just as it's about to die, it kicks back up to 700 RPM. It does this maybe, once every 15 seconds. And it only does it at idle, not under load. Thinking it was a vacuum leak, i checked all the hoses. Nothing. Then finally after about 3 hours of driving i get my SES light. So i run over to AutoZone (Good friend is the manager) and he gets out the diag. key. Throws a code 32. EGR valve. So i open the hood and start to look for the EGR valve. I finally found it, and you all know where it is.. heh.. Now about getting the TPI system off.. How hard is it? I mean, im pretty sure this is the LAST of my problems (crosses fingers) Any advice? Should i just clean the old EGR valve or replace it ($45) and if the TPI is too hard to get off, what would you estimate labor wise? I checked the solenoid connection, and everything looks okay. I may just end up replacing both the valve and the solenoid while i have the plenum off. THANKS GUYS!! I hope to start driving this car (w/o worries) soon!

BTW its a 91' w 75k (AT)

 

[Ken]

First off, welcome to the Corvette Action Center!

I know what you're going through when you start with a used vehicle; mine was in the shop within a week of when I bought it, and my wallet was about $1500 lighter. And I ain't stop spending money ion it since! :eyerole

Your best bet is to replace the EGR rather than attempt to try and clean it. If you don't have a Helm's service manual (get the electrical supplement too) my advice would be to get one; they're much better than the Haynes or Chilton's books.

I'm sure you'll get plenty of help here at the CAC with instructions as to how to remove the plenum.

 

[AlcHEmiE]

Thanks for the welcome . But does it sound like the EGR to you? I mean after all, thats what the computer told me, heh. And what about front shocks, how hard are they to replace? And i have the electronic ride control, but it no longer works. Is that common? Or is it just not worth fixing?

 

[Ken]

Code 32 is the code for a malfunctioning EGR. Sometimes it's simply a piece of carbon that gets wedged in there and frees itself later. The part itself isn't that costly, it's the labor involved that's time-consuming.

Front shocks are a piece 'o cake; you don't even have to lift the car from what I'm told.

As for the electronic ride control, I assume you to mean the FX3 option, eh? I can't tell you what it'll cost to refurbish that unit. Maybe someone else here has that information.

 

[Hib Halverson]

I'd clear codes and road test. If DTC32 resets, I'd look it up in the Service Manual and follow the diagnostic instructions you find there. The solution may or may not be to replace the EGR valve, and simply replacing the valve without running the diagnostics may not stop the DTC.

 

[old-hot-rodder]

The switch that tells the EGR to function in my 89 was bad. I replaced the switch (easy) and everything is well. Mid America sells this switch for $19.99. I would try this switch first! Good luck!

 

[AlcHEmiE]

But if the switch is bad, would that be causing my idle surges? Thats the biggest thing.. I could care less if the SES light was on 24/7, i just dont like driving the car knowing that it could stall anytime i get stuck at a red light..

 

[jmccloud]

egr valve

The egr valve leaking at idle will cause exactly your symptoms. Normally the egr remains closed at idle, so your problem is not likely the solenoid but rather a piece of crud in the valve or a defective (leaking) valve. Unless the solenoid is stuck. Test this by simply pulling the vacuum actuator hose off of the egr valve.
If the problem remains, try putting a really good vacuum source to the egr hose to try and pull the valve wide open to let the crud fall out. Use a clean hose to prevent your mouth from becoming dirty during this trial.
Cycle the egr open/closed several times. If it will reach, put a finger tip on the egr diaphram to assure movement. Then try it with the engine running (don't get your clothing, hair, etc. in the belt).
A warmed up highway speed cruise may cause the egr to open enough to let the crud out.
I've had three cars with your symptoms and only one of them responded to these techinques. The other two had to have their egr's removed and replaced. After all that work, a new one seemed cheap. The work wasn't difficult, just tedious.

 

[AlcHEmiE]

Cool, thanks alot for all your advice. Anoyne know where to get a EGR valve cheap online? My local autoparts store can only get the AC delco replacement for $59.99, but if need be I'll have to special order the EGR valve from them, so i'll post back here on monday if it solved my problems.

 

[jmccloud]

EGR sources

NAPA, AutoZone, Advance Auto, Ecklers, GM Parts Direct, possible sources from on-line. Lots of others. Do a Google search to get links.

 

[c4cruiser]

Do you see the Service Ride Control light lit constantly on the DIC?? IS that why you say the FX3 systm is not working?? You can pull the trouble codes for FX3 by grounding pins A and C and count the number of times the SRC light will flash. Like the SES light, the SRC light will flash a Code 12 three times and then any of the specific SRC codes three times followed by the Code 12 again. Your friend at AutoZone may be able to pull the codes with the equipment he has.

Post the code(s) you see and post them here. The FX3 system is a great system and is IMHO worth fixing. Bilstein can rebuild the FX3 shocks for you and can also re-valve them to even further improve the shocks. Call them at 1-800-537-1085 in Poway, CA to get information on costs. Doug Rippie Motorsports even has a FX3 controller you can install in place of the factory one and allows for using removeable eproms that will further customize the system.

In some cases, the shock actuator may be bad and those are fairly expensive They are a pricey GM item but you may be able to find them on eBay.

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

I'd clear codes and road test. If DTC32 resets, I'd look it up in the Service Manual and follow the diagnostic instructions you find there. The solution may or may not be to replace the EGR valve, and simply replacing the valve without running the diagnostics may not stop the DTC.

I'll second this, and add to it.... if your diagnostics do lead to replacing the valve, be certain the EGR passages aren't clogged up. If they are, simply replacing the valve won't help. Depending on the mileage your Vette has, and the previous owner's maintenence program (or lack thereof), the EGR passages do get clogged with carbon and will not allow proper EGR operation. DTC 32 is a real PITA to deal with (seems like you fix one thing and it keeps coming back!), but be thorough in your troubleshooting. If you find the passages are clogged, you need to pull the intake manifold to do the job correctly. Hope this helps!

 

[Hrtbeat1]

When I bought mine I had the same thing ... sort of. Sometimes I would get a code 32 and sometimes not. I didn't have the idle problems you are having. I replaced the EGR valve and solenoid but it did no good ... the code 32 kept coming back. Upon further inspection I found that one of the previous owners had removed the catalytic converter and welded the tube that feeds the air pump/egr closed. To get to the EGR you need to remove the plenum and TB, you can leave these two attached. Loosen the seven torx bolts and one stud that connects the plenum to the runners. Then loosen the passenger side torx bolts that connect the runners to the manifold. Now take out the upper bolts/stud, Remove the vaccuum hoses and the brake booster feed from the rear of the plenum. As you lift the plenum there is one connector on the underside that has to be disconnected (the Air Temp sensor). With all this out of the way the EGR solenoid and valve are right there. When reassembling make sure all your gaskets are lined up (the runner gaskets have little plastic tabs to keep them in place) and reverse the process.


Hope this helps.